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This is why you should drink Bollinger my dear. They still give a damn.


Quite the eulogy. Now I know what to expect. "More dream and branding; less in the bottle." That sums up the message of your post quite well. Nice one.


(this came in as an email, and with his permission, I'm posting as a comment.)

I just read you recent entry about Krug and was just gob-smacked.

I was very fortunate back in the late 70's thru the 90's in having a father-in-law would amassed a spectacular cellar of French wines and Champagnes, Krug being the mainstay of the bubbly. Like you with your gal pal I drank a lot of it and was wonderfully spoiled. Just the other day as a gift for a friend and client I bottle a bottle thinking I was being so clever and extravagant- it ain't cheap at retail prices as you well know. After chilling it properly, we found it to be very lack luster and almost bland- BLAND mind you! I went back to my wine purveyor and told him of my disappointment. As a good client, he gave me another bottle gratis, which was also piss poor. The life had gone out of the wine, the aroma, the perfume that was so distinct was a tepid shadow of its former self. The taste was flat almost metallic with hints still of flint and a wee bit of earth with that soft sweetness like nectar but nothing, nothing like the sexy gal she once was. After reading your article I now understand why. Such a pity and sad.



This is so sad... Considering the price, Krug was my super-special occasion treat - looks like no more, unless I can find a pre-2003 bottle. Sigh.


Very sad news indeed. Guess the prices of prior vintages will increase even more now.


I hope you post some follow up, from Krug. It is a hard choice to make to write negative on such a brand. I've never tasted Krug, but the Bollinger cuvee is mighty fine for an entry level fizz. And Grande Dame pink, so fine, so fine.

Michiel Sebastiaan Demarey

@D: Sorry but since Kaufmann, the style of Bollinger has changed.. the toasty, masculine style is replaced by sterile chardonnay.
The new style of Krug is absolutely disappointing, Olivier mis-interprets the work of his ancestors. The same with Charles Heidsieck.. Thierry Roset replaces Régis Camus.. the style is gone. The world of Champagne has collapsed. Please go to champagnifique.com for more info... thank you


I couldn't agree with Michel more. It's not just Krug. I may be more disappointed with what has happened to Charles Heidsieck. That Champagne was so delicious and so afforable. Now the price has also skyrocketed.
So sad they want to fix what wasn't broken.

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