The Feiring Line

Jonathan Nossiter's New Book (Interruptus)

Jonathan Nossiter's new book was released in France today. (Taste and Power or as French Amazon has it listed as...Mondovino: The Book.).

I've been immersed in my own book cover debate, as a result I have been obsessed with the symbolism and power of other wine book cover art.

Yes, it nicely recalls the clouds from the Mondovino image. Now, look at his name, placed like cojones on either side of the tumescent wine glass' stem? An accident?

The wine journal, Decanter, wrote on their site that Nossiter gives it to everyone--and especially Parker. And as a result, (thank you Tyler for alerting me) Mr. Robert M. Parker Jr. ripped a characteristically snarky tirade.

Get this snippet that he posted on his website eBob.com.

"It is Nossiter and his ilk (call them the scary wine gestapo) chanting the same stupid hymn that demand wines be produced in only one narrow style.....but bring on the suckers and fools....some one will certainly buy into his propaganda as they did that migraine-inducing disingenuous...."

The entry visible to all on his ebob website is a rant. Now, I rant, but I do try to stay away from name calling. So in the middle of this, wanting to crunch a proper behavioral analysis of Bob, a press release and hold further forth on the Nossiter book, something popped into my email box and blew my focus. The press release is a pretty good example of why I hate this whole GREEN thing in wineries and so Nossiter and Parker will have to wait.

+++The new Langtry Vineyard Tour Program gives visitors the opportunity to customize their visit to Langtry Estate by selecting from two different tour options that focus on the vineyards, the history of the property and the wines. This is the first time that the winery has offered property tours. Guests will ride in battery-operated Global Electric Motorcars during the tour. The vehicles are a clean, green transportation alternative.+++

Wine is becoming so Disney-esque.

Are we supposed to assume that because they go electric in cars they go natural in wine? Perhaps. However, it's not the case.

And that's also why this organic thing gets under my skin.

But that's another rant for another time. After all, as Mr. Parker might say about me and my "ilk," part of the scary wine gestapo.

That's almost as good as the Terroir Jihadists.

Jonathan Nossiter's New Book (Interruptus)

Jonathan Nossiter's new book was released in France today. (Taste and Power or as French Amazon has it listed as...Mondovino: The Book.).

I've been immersed in my own book cover debate, as a result I have been obsessed with the symbolism and power of other wine book cover art which nicely recalls the clouds from the Mondovino image. And then it's tweaked; his name, placed like cojones on either side of the tumescent wine glass' stem. Oh, that art department.

The wine journal Decanter wrote on their site that Nossiter gives it to everyone--and especially Parker. And as a result, (thank you Tyler for alerting me) Mr. Robert M. Parker Jr. ripped a characteristically snarky tirade.

Get this snippet that he posted on his website eBob.com.

"It is Nossiter and his ilk (call them the scary wine gestapo) chanting the same stupid hymn that demand wines be produced in only one narrow style.....but bring on the suckers and fools....some one will certainly buy into his propaganda as they did that migraine-inducing disingenuous...."

The entry visible to all on his ebob website is a rant. Now, I rant, but I do try to stay away from name calling. So in the middle of this, wanting to crunch a proper behavioral analysis of Bob, a press release and hold further forth on the Nossiter book, something popped into my email box and blew my focus. The press release is a pretty good example of why I hate this whole GREEN thing in wineries and so Nossiter and Parker will have to wait.

+++The new Langtry Vineyard Tour Program gives visitors the opportunity to customize their visit to Langtry Estate by selecting from two different tour options that focus on the vineyards, the history of the property and the wines. This is the first time that the winery has offered property tours. Guests will ride in battery-operated Global Electric Motorcars during the tour. The vehicles are a clean, green transportation alternative.+++

Wine is becoming so Disney-esque.

Are we supposed to assume that because they go electric in cars they go natural in wine? Perhaps. However, it's not the case.

And that's also why this organic thing gets under my skin.

But that's another rant for another time. After all, as Mr. Parker might say about me and my "ilk," part of the scary wine gestapo.

That's almost as good as the Terroir Jihadists.

Hanna Agostini's Parker Book Shakes the World!!

Hanna Agostini, Parker's past point-woman in Bordeaux who in 2003 had been questioned in connection with improper exploitation of Parker’s stationery and his good name, (I don't know what happened to that case, does anyone?) has released a kiss and tell book about the world’s most famous wine critic’s work practices. Who would have thought that the book that puts Robert M. Parker on a skewer and placed him over the barbecue could have generated press from the front page of Yahoo to the New York Post and of course all around the world? Yet as shoddy as the Agostini book might or not be, the reportage surrounding the book was mostly schlock. Except for an interview in Sud Ouest it seemed that no journalist bothered with any real research. Storiess seemed regurgitated from a press release (if you have one, I would love to see it.***) I think this one must have been the Christmas fruit cakes of press releases to have been passed around and fed so many pens. The world-wide repetitive ink was on the news that Parker has important friends in Bordeaux (shocking! ) who makes wines he loves and awards points and that he recycles some tasting notes. The journalism was so shoddy that I had to read four articles before I could uncover the title, which is Robert Parker: Anatomie d’un Mythe**. (I can't figure this one out. On the Amazon site it is listed as Portraid d'un Mythe.) The point repeated often was that Agostini’s point was to show that Parker was not the pure critic he tells the world he is. No one cited the actual book. From what I could see galleys of the 378 page book were not spread about. Decanter reported that by the week of release, no review copies were available. Eager journalists seized on the news like raw meat thrown into the zoo's lion’s den. What a marketing coup. So far, the lack of actual reviews has not been a problem for sales. While not available in this country le livre is rated 94(!) in books on Amazon.Fr., a prominent place in the top 100. On Tuesday it drifted down to the 300 zone. *** This entry on the book sellling site Mollat (http://www.mollat.com/livres/hanna-agostini)seems to be at least one source of the oft quoted material. <>

Hanna Agostini's Parker Book Shakes the World!!

Hanna Agostini, Parker's past point-woman in Bordeaux who in 2003 had been questioned in connection with improper exploitation of Parker’s stationery and his good name, (I don't know what happened to that case, does anyone?) has released a kiss and tell book about the world’s most famous wine critic’s work practices. Who would have thought that the book that puts Robert M. Parker on a skewer and placed him over the barbecue could have generated press from the front page of Yahoo to the New York Post and of course all around the world? Yet as shoddy as the Agostini book might or not be, the reportage surrounding the book was mostly schlock. Except for an interview in Sud Ouest it seemed that no journalist bothered with any real research. Storiess seemed regurgitated from a press release (if you have one, I would love to see it.***) I think this one must have been the Christmas fruit cakes of press releases to have been passed around and fed so many pens. The world-wide repetitive ink was on the news that Parker has important friends in Bordeaux (shocking! ) who makes wines he loves and awards points and that he recycles some tasting notes. The journalism was so shoddy that I had to read four articles before I could uncover the title, which is Robert Parker: Anatomie d’un Mythe**. (I can't figure this one out. On the Amazon site it is listed as Portraid d'un Mythe.) The point repeated often was that Agostini’s point was to show that Parker was not the pure critic he tells the world he is. No one cited the actual book. From what I could see galleys of the 378 page book were not spread about. Decanter reported that by the week of release, no review copies were available. Eager journalists seized on the news like raw meat thrown into the zoo's lion’s den. What a marketing coup. So far, the lack of actual reviews has not been a problem for sales. While not available in this country le livre is rated 94(!) in books on Amazon.Fr., a prominent place in the top 100. On Tuesday it drifted down to the 300 zone. *** This entry on the book sellling site Mollat (http://www.mollat.com/livres/hanna-agostini)seems to be at least one source of the oft quoted material. <>

Prague: Elle Decor

http://www.pointclickhome.com/elle_decor/articles/travel_prague

Ask the average guy on the street what Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic, is all about and most likely his answer will involve beer and supermodels. There is no doubt that runway stars Eva Herzigova, Hana Soukupova, Petra Nemcova, and Paulina Porizkova all hail from this former Soviet Bloc entity. And yes, the pilsner is fresh, cheap, and plentiful. But woven into Prague’s legendary skyscape of Baroque spires and angular red-tile roofs is an unbelievably rich and culturally provocative history. Franz Kafka changed the course of literature here. Alphonse Mucha put a particularly Czech spin on the Art Nouveau movement. Here was born a bizarrely fascinating Cubist architecture and design movement. And anyone who knows anything about glass understands that the region of Bohemia, of which Prague is the centerpiece, is the historic home of some of the world’s finest crystal.

etc...please click on the above link for the full story and pix!--alice

Book Update

For those of you who don't know, I do have a book date. FINALLY. The fabulous publisher, Harcourt will present my book, THE BATTLE FOR WINE & LOVE (or How I Saved the World from Parkerization) , to the world in the merry month of May 2008. My editor placed the blue-marked, mess of a copy-edited manuscript in my hands this week. Currently I am plodding over it (alternately liking it and hating it)--this is exactly the kind of task when one wishes one was born a Virgo. I am not. I have no Virgo in me at all.

Book Update

For those of you who don't know, I do have a book date. FINALLY. The fabulous publisher, Harcourt will present my book, THE BATTLE FOR WINE & LOVE (or How I Saved the World from Parkerization) , to the world in the merry month of May 2008. My editor placed the blue-marked, mess of a copy-edited manuscript in my hands this week. Currently I am plodding over it (alternately liking it and hating it)--this is exactly the kind of task when one wishes one was born a Virgo. I am not. I have no Virgo in me at all.

The Dressner Tasting

I got a message from someone I know, who was bummed. “You’re not alone in being blacklisted. I’m blacklisted from Dressner’s tasting.” Joe, barred from his own tasting in the Loire last February. Well, his wasn’t a real blacklist the way I’m barred from the eBob board. In his case there was nothing personal. Joe's tasting is just not a typical trade tasting where all are welcome and you need is a business card. A relationship behind the card is essential. Joe thinks of his October Tasting as a dinner party. He needs to know everyone as if they were coming into his home and he needed to keep an eye on numbers. I understand the problem. I can only fit eleven people around my table. Hard decisions, but sometimes I too have to shut out some worthy people. I was lucky to be honored with an invite. I should have brought a host gift. Instead I brought a pad and a pen. For those of you who had your nose pressed to the glass, I interrupt my Champagne series with this report. A West Coast contingency flew in, which included lovely Shawn Mead, looking a spectacular in a dress I adored, a well fitting green sheath (she said it came from a store named Lemon twist). You definitely missed the best lunch spread this side of the Atlantic of any industry tasting in recent memory. Love the pizza patate from Grand Daisy. And the wines. The Louis/Dressner portfolio is now a reference. It just is. These were some that stood out for me. Rene Dard Retaining deity status in 2006 are DARD & RIBO. From whites to red, from the Crozes to the Hermitage, it’s a tour de force, at this stage at least. As usual, their St. Jo was exquisite and spicy. The Hermitage had some crushed cumin and the young rogue, Crozes-Hermitage had some of that good old fashioned is it raspberry or black current fruit appeal. The animal in their wines made them a Jungian experience. PHILIPPE PACALET’s 2006 Burgundies were almost too intense. They were like drinking (or eating) too much mescaline. Tasting them transported me back to the time one hot August night when I had no choice but to cocoon and straight jacket myself in a blanket, for hours as I walked my internal pavement, thinking, obsessing, crying and feeling until my nerve preceptors stopped spazzing and it was safe to come out. The two wines that were particularly hallucinogenic were the always fascinating Pommard and the cinnamon-scented stemmy, argumentative, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Bel Air. Chambolle needed more time as did the Nuits St. George. I'll try to remember to report the next time I meet them in the woods. Franck Peillot Altesse Roussette de Montagnieu: I've had this before but this time it had the effect of, where have you been all of my life. According to Joe's notes, Altesse is Furmint, which if I can believe him, I didn't know. It reminded me of a spring snow. As far as other notables: Christian Chaussard: His wines at the lower end of the $ are yummy even if they have some of the most embarrassing names. 2006 You Are So Nice proves that Cot & Gamay = Pineau d'Aunis. 2006 You Are So Beautiful proves that Cot & Pineau d'Aunis velvet. 2005 La Pangee is loads of fun (Gamay & Pineau =earthy Pineau) Longues Vignes (100% Pineau) is gorgeous with a kick of aspirin for a surprise finish. Let me go on record. I am a slut for Pineau d'Aunis. (Which is supposed to be an English transplant?) *** Jean-Marc Brignot : Last year’s rock star, J-M, makes kick ass wines from Arbois. I especially love the P/P, which blends Pinot and Ploussard. It’s got a touch of carnation and silt. Radikon: What can I say? Merlot is complex, silky, tannic and barely prune and expensive. Arianna Occhipinti: Her 2005 Frappato from Sicily is just cherry, delicate and tart and rich and lusty. Yum. I was too busy talking, schmoozing, making sure my host was happy he invited me, to taste everything I needed to and wanted to. I am a loose kind of atmospheric note scribbler, big on short hand. I wish I was one of those obsessive get every detail type. Honorable mentions go to the usual suspects, some gems in all of them.

The Dressner Tasting

I got a message from someone I know, who was bummed. “You’re not alone in being blacklisted. I’m blacklisted from Dressner’s tasting.” Joe, barred from his own tasting in the Loire last February. Well, his wasn’t a real blacklist the way I’m barred from the eBob board. In his case there was nothing personal. Joe's tasting is just not a typical trade tasting where all are welcome and you need is a business card. A relationship behind the card is essential. Joe thinks of his October Tasting as a dinner party. He needs to know everyone as if they were coming into his home and he needed to keep an eye on numbers. I understand the problem. I can only fit eleven people around my table. Hard decisions, but sometimes I too have to shut out some worthy people. I was lucky to be honored with an invite. I should have brought a host gift. Instead I brought a pad and a pen. For those of you who had your nose pressed to the glass, I interrupt my Champagne series with this report. A West Coast contingency flew in, which included lovely Shawn Mead, looking a spectacular in a dress I adored, a well fitting green sheath (she said it came from a store named Lemon twist). You definitely missed the best lunch spread this side of the Atlantic of any industry tasting in recent memory. Love the pizza patate from Grand Daisy. And the wines. The Louis/Dressner portfolio is now a reference. It just is. These were some that stood out for me. Rene Dard Retaining deity status in 2006 are DARD & RIBO. From whites to red, from the Crozes to the Hermitage, it’s a tour de force, at this stage at least. As usual, their St. Jo was exquisite and spicy. The Hermitage had some crushed cumin and the young rogue, Crozes-Hermitage had some of that good old fashioned is it raspberry or black current fruit appeal. The animal in their wines made them a Jungian experience. PHILIPPE PACALET’s 2006 Burgundies were almost too intense. They were like drinking (or eating) too much mescaline. Tasting them transported me back to the time one hot August night when I had no choice but to cocoon and straight jacket myself in a blanket, for hours as I walked my internal pavement, thinking, obsessing, crying and feeling until my nerve preceptors stopped spazzing and it was safe to come out. The two wines that were particularly hallucinogenic were the always fascinating Pommard and the cinnamon-scented stemmy, argumentative, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Bel Air. Chambolle needed more time as did the Nuits St. George. I'll try to remember to report the next time I meet them in the woods. Franck Peillot Altesse Roussette de Montagnieu: I've had this before but this time it had the effect of, where have you been all of my life. According to Joe's notes, Altesse is Furmint, which if I can believe him, I didn't know. It reminded me of a spring snow. As far as other notables: Christian Chaussard: His wines at the lower end of the $ are yummy even if they have some of the most embarrassing names. 2006 You Are So Nice proves that Cot & Gamay = Pineau d'Aunis. 2006 You Are So Beautiful proves that Cot & Pineau d'Aunis velvet. 2005 La Pangee is loads of fun (Gamay & Pineau =earthy Pineau) Longues Vignes (100% Pineau) is gorgeous with a kick of aspirin for a surprise finish. Let me go on record. I am a slut for Pineau d'Aunis. (Which is supposed to be an English transplant?) *** Jean-Marc Brignot : Last year’s rock star, J-M, makes kick ass wines from Arbois. I especially love the P/P, which blends Pinot and Ploussard. It’s got a touch of carnation and silt. Radikon: What can I say? Merlot is complex, silky, tannic and barely prune and expensive. Arianna Occhipinti: Her 2005 Frappato from Sicily is just cherry, delicate and tart and rich and lusty. Yum. I was too busy talking, schmoozing, making sure my host was happy he invited me, to taste everything I needed to and wanted to. I am a loose kind of atmospheric note scribbler, big on short hand. I wish I was one of those obsessive get every detail type. Honorable mentions go to the usual suspects, some gems in all of them.

The Organic Yeast Story

There is now an 'organic' yeast developed from a biodynamic vineyard in Champagne. I met the news with eyebrows raised and lip curled. The whole idea smacked of commercialism in a way that first outraged and then saddened me. This stupid idea was going to stand in the way of school-trained winemakers from getting the feel of native yeast fermentation and will give them an excuse, "but now there's an organic yeast!"

Big deal.

Because the whole idea seems opposed to the spirit and purpose of bioD and organic, I was compelled to take a meeting at the Champagne lab, Œnotechnique, the one that took ten years to develop Quartz--The Yeast--before placing it on the market for the 2007 vintage.

The consultant I met with, James Darsonville, had a print of Van Gogh and an African violet plant on his desk and a little pin, like the Italian's wear. I can't help it, I always associate the decoration with black shirts. But Mr. Darsonville was very friendly, excited, clearly not used to requests from the press.

He explained everyone who makes champagne must yeast, though he did admit some few don’t for the first fermentation (many but not all of our guys, Pierre Larmandier, David Leclapart, Lassaigne, Vouette Sorbe, to name a few.). But, they run great risk, especially in developing volatile acidity which can be identified by the aroma of nail polish or apple cider vinegar.

The second fermentation, however, is more difficult because it’s a total manipulation anyway. (For another blog, just trust me).

M. Darsonville was happy to explain that winemakers all over the world were enthused about this yeast. It has shown up in wines from Chile and Down Under. VinQuiry sells it in California. Requests are coming from wineries that want to make organic wines, which is just the kind of 'legitimacy' for yeasting I don't want to see. (Oy.) Given how big GREEN is at the moment, they stand to make pots of dough off of this.

“And as far as using the yeast? Is it good?” I asked.

He smiled and said, "C'est bio, C'est bon."

No doubt the lab intends to wink, wink all the way to the bank, they might even put the moto on their deposit slips.

The next morning I was at Fleury in Courteron to see the vineyards that are now immortalized in packets from the lab.

Did you ever see such gorgeous vineyards? Truly.

The village of Courteron has 25 hectares in biodynamic. Who says they can’t farm biodynamically in Champagne? Fleury, who was the first, said two other neighbors seeing his success followed suit. "We are like Les Trois Mousquetaires . I'm d'Artagnan."

Jean-Sebastien Fleury says they will get no royalties from the yeast sales but will receive free yeast every year.

Nevertheless, yeast or no yeast, some of his champers are delicious. I particularly loved the Cuve Robert Fleury (blend of all three grapes. Round and creamy with bits of mandarin) and the honeysuckle-ish 1996 Fleury and his wife's pure and delicious gougres.

During that visit, I saw that Jean-Sebastien was innocent about the potential misuse of his yeast. He is an enthused astronomer, and as he gazes at Orion's Belt he will have no idea how his little (but I hear fast fermenting yeast) will be used by winemakers and companies hoping to capitalize on the current sex appeal of organic.