The scene at the latest Jenny & Francois tasting? Energized. Wines showed well and there were plenty of slurpers and spitters. Amongst the luminaries were Brooklyn Guy (http://brooklynguyloveswine.blogspot.com/), Ruben Sanz Ramiro from The Monday Room (his first taste of these wines, he was particularly enamoured by Domaine Rimbert from St. Chinian). Fifi (La Pere Pinard..etc.) and Jorge, of 360 fame and is now shaping the list an unlikely spot, Soho's Circle Rouge (I guess I have to show up there and see what he's up to).

Many thanks for Jenny for synching the tasting handouts with the sequence of the wines. Brilliant. All of this meant that Alice was far less confused!

If I were putting together my next wine list, these are the wines I would choose.

CHAMPERS!!
Lassaigne Brut. One of my favorites. I bowed to it and went down the line.

OUDIN CHABLIS VAUGIRAUT '04
Just adore the Vaugiraut. Yum. A mineral blast. A classic crystal and steel chard.

AUDREY & CHRISTIAN BINNER
The 04's from this Alsatian house are brilliant.
*Pinot Gris is refreshing.
*Katzenthal Riesling is got a long grip and layers of flowers and petrol.
*Gewurtztraminer: a great one for people with fear of Gewurtz. Very dry with the appeal of a gin &tonic.

PEYRA COTES D'AUVERGNES, SG ‘04
For those who are mourning the financial demise of Stephane Majeaune there are three more vintages on the way, made in the trendy, hard-core Jules Chauvet method.

Though I defy anyone to ident the grape in the bottle, it is a great drink and a text book illustration of how a vin naturel differs from the conventional, even the conventional ‘natural.” It is twiggy, earth meets currant and delivers plenty of puppy breath while still managing to intrigue.

BOBINETE SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY '06
I admit I didn't love his first two vintages, but now all has quieted down and was much impressed. The wine is a mouthful, has a bit of barnyard brett to flesh out some ripe green/red pepper.

DOMAIN DE LA PATIENCE, ST. GUILHEM MERLOT ‘05
By the glass alert. A merlot that is woodsy with a nice dollop of tar and edge, reminds me of a great 1970's zinfandel.

ROMANEAUX-DESTEZET
Hervé Souhaut’s Souteronne is old vine Gamay. The ‘05 is edgy and lush with more syrah animal than gamay floral. The ‘06 syrah has got a nice flash of horse, chalk, dander and white pepper. Admittedly, both should be labeled-- geek alert—for for those who love Dard & Ribo? Enough said.

L'ANGLORE LES TRAVERSES '06
Another one with Chauvet style little extraction and you've got to wonder, white or rosé? But the flavor delivers with interest and elegance... hard to spot the syrah--supposedly is 60%?

CAVES ESTÉZARGUES
I love this Southern Rhone cooperative. The '06 Les Grandes Vignes is cheap, typical rhone fruit, and reliable and interesting but…..the star is……..

BAG IN THE BOX!!!
3 liters are wrapped up in a plain brown wrapper. They call it From the Tank. If I had a restaurant I'd pour the crap out of this wine. It is perfect. Be a nice guy, sell it for $5 a glass and make your customers happy. (Hey, I'd serve it for parties, or keep it on hand for nightly tipples.) The finish is slightly loose, but it's got enough licorice, tar and white pepper to keep it going.

DEUX ANES:
I've writen about these wines from Corbieres often. Licorice marks all three wines. The '06 Premier Pas is easy to love. The '05 Fontanilles has a slight skunk but great texture, some sand, and acidity. L'Enclos is brooding.

JEAN LOUIS TRIBOULEY L'ALBA '03.
No, not THAT Alaba! This is from the Roussillon. A dense red wine with plenty of power and spice to have a touch of peach. Go figure.

It was almost a disaster when I couldn't find my wine notes (just found them so I can amend this post), from the Dressner tasting held at the NEW Astor Center, the wine tasting/event space up above Astor Wine store. The new space felt like a new pair of squeaky shoes.

Never mind. D had gathered many of his Italian guys in an Italian Naturalmente attack. I wish all tastings were this user friendly in size. An hour to taste, an hour to shmooze, and go home happy.

One of the treats was tasting Stefano Bellotti of Cascina degli Ulivi stateside.

(in Gavi in the vines, 2005, after my friend Elena instisted I travel an hour from her place in Alba to pay homage to this kind of Cortese.)

Anyway, I can tell you that his wines showed fabulously.
Love the 2005 Gavi Filagnotti which is aged in older acacia barrels, tasted like a lemon/lime soda without sugar.
2006 was a little like lemon and peach.
2005 Bianco was floral and firm.
2005 Nibbio was filled with blackberries and juice. Extremely flavorful and nuanced.

What about the goddess of Frappato? Arianna Occhipintii? She was there too, all the way from Sicily.
2005 Frap was a tart cherry pie with a long tangy finish.
2006 is no slouch.

Ruche lovers delight! Cascina 'Tavijn's new 2006 baby is a beaut with walnuts soaked in cherry brandy.

2006 Grignolino was bright and fun, fun, fun in the sand.

The lovely Alessandra Bera was showing some excellent Barbera (2004 LaVerrane showing quite well in that frizzante style) and the best moscato on the market.

The 2005 Ronco Malo was solid, meaty and mineral.

In case you wondered, I am a fan of Silvio Messana's Chianti's and non-Chiantis.
the 2005 Toscana Rosso is yummy with needles of tannin to spice up the fruit.

Radikon (no show) Oslvaje 2002 was spicy like an old Rioja.

And, from the Roagna table it was the 2000 Barolo Rocca la Pira that I found haunting after I left. It reminded me of plaid. I never experienced that with a wine before. Not a blackwatch, more like a glen.

A fun moment was meeting a mythical figure in the wine world, Le Garagiste (the Seattle-based biz) himself and getting very good promotional advice from the wine writer who wrote the Parker bio, Elin McCoy.

Mr. Dressner was occupied with his fawning public so he didn't even say hello to me.

Jenny & Francois’s tasting was the perfect size, snuck in beneath Jane Restaurant. Here are the standouts from my experience.

JACQUES LASSAIGNE CHAMPAGNE. APPLAUSE! Beautiful stuff

GUILLOT-BROUX
Love this Macon producer. The Combettes is angular, structured food worthy white with a dose of fennel. The simple Macon is somewhat of a bargain. Don’t overlook the Bourgogne rouge, got plenty of pinot zip.

2005 DOMAINE CRUIZILLE ARAGONITE
Austere but good. Will be happy to drink.

2004 DERAIN MERCUREY, will some one please tell me why 2004 got a bad rap. I love the wines. Lots of ground ivy and silt.

01 PACALET GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN was showing really well. It must have been a fruit day. Last summer it was gone, now it’s out of its dumb phase and into a hell of a lot of prettiness.

DOMAINE ANGLORE CUVEE LES TRAVERSES
Mostly syrah with bits of mourvedre and Grenache. Due to the technique of vinification I’m not getting a whole lot of varietal characteristic but it is awfully stony and pleasant

L’ANGLORE PIERRE CHAUDE is 70% Grenache and it’s a nice flash of a wine. Attention getting.

2004 COURTOIS QUARTZ
Is sauvignon, though I defy you get it in a blind tasting unless you’re familiar with his style of winemaking. However the real minerality shines through with a touch of oxidation. A great wine to play with food.

2005 DEUX ANES---I always love these Corbiereres, especially the Fontanilles. It’s a crowd pleaser and gets more expressive after a day or two.

2005/06 ESTEZARGUES--- As always. Low rent wines that deliver for the party. Nice Rhoney character. Ie specially loved Les Genestre and the Gres Saint Vincent.

Jenny & Francois’s tasting was the perfect size, snuck in beneath Jane Restaurant. Here are the standouts from my experience.

JACQUES LASSAIGNE CHAMPAGNE. APPLAUSE! Beautiful stuff

GUILLOT-BROUX
Love this Macon producer. The Combettes is angular, structured food worthy white with a dose of fennel. The simple Macon is somewhat of a bargain. Don’t overlook the Bourgogne rouge, got plenty of pinot zip.

2005 DOMAINE CRUIZILLE ARAGONITE
Austere but good. Will be happy to drink.

2004 DERAIN MERCUREY, will some one please tell me why 2004 got a bad rap. I love the wines. Lots of ground ivy and silt.

01 PACALET GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN was showing really well. It must have been a fruit day. Last summer it was gone, now it’s out of its dumb phase and into a hell of a lot of prettiness.

DOMAINE ANGLORE CUVEE LES TRAVERSES
Mostly syrah with bits of mourvedre and Grenache. Due to the technique of vinification I’m not getting a whole lot of varietal characteristic but it is awfully stony and pleasant

L’ANGLORE PIERRE CHAUDE is 70% Grenache and it’s a nice flash of a wine. Attention getting.

2004 COURTOIS QUARTZ
Is sauvignon, though I defy you get it in a blind tasting unless you’re familiar with his style of winemaking. However the real minerality shines through with a touch of oxidation. A great wine to play with food.

2005 DEUX ANES---I always love these Corbiereres, especially the Fontanilles. It’s a crowd pleaser and gets more expressive after a day or two.

2005/06 ESTEZARGUES--- As always. Low rent wines that deliver for the party. Nice Rhoney character. Ie specially loved Les Genestre and the Gres Saint Vincent.

Tasting was ultra classy at Per Se. Even better most of the wines showed beautifully. Made me very happy.
I would love to see all or any that I've mentioned below on my own wine shelves or by the glass at a resto.
Wine buyers listen up.

J-D H has a terrific line up of sparklers.

*Merieau Method Traditionelle NV
90% chenin, 10% chardonnay. Yum. Clean apple flavor. Very chenin, very dry. Great sparkler at a great price.

*Louis Grenelle
New producer from the Loire for me. A sparkler made from cabernet franc. Of course it's earthy and compelling in its difference.

*Bedel et Fils Champagne: LOVE FRANCOISE'S CHAMPAGNES. Favorite is the Entre Ciel et Terre. Mouthwatering champers.

*David LeClapart L'Apotre: David's champers are getting better each effort. This one is dry, touch of metal and a long lime finish. Built to last.

WHITES

*Delhommeau Muscadet: Always good to meet another compelling muscadet in a dark alley.

*Merieau Sauvignon de Touraine 2006: A great, inexpensive, expression. This Merieau makes good stuff in still wines as well.

*Domaine St. Nicolas Fiefs Vendeens Les Clous Blanc 2005
50/50 chenin, chardonnay, this was probably the wine surprise of the day with a three-star yum and shades of licorice.

*Laureau Savennieres les Genets 2004
Clean, with nice wet sweater fuzz but absolutely gripping with structure.

REDS

*Domaine St. Nicolas Pinot Noir 2005
Cherry. Zingy. Silty. My nose planted in the bowl and would not move.)

*Clos Delorme Valencay Rouge 2005
Juliette from Gramercy T and I were happily shmoozing over this one. We really enjoyed the Loire mix of gamay, cot, cabernet franc and a hint of pinot. Talk about a clutch of grapes. The 20% cabernet franc really busted through the rest. The cot gave it velvet. Great, silk velvet.