Wines from Jon David Headrick
November 4, 2007
Tasting was ultra classy at Per Se. Even better most of the wines showed beautifully. Made me very happy.
I would love to see all or any that I've mentioned below on my own wine shelves or by the glass at a resto.
Wine buyers listen up.
J-D H has a terrific line up of sparklers.
*Merieau Method Traditionelle NV
90% chenin, 10% chardonnay. Yum. Clean apple flavor. Very chenin, very dry. Great sparkler at a great price.
*Louis Grenelle
New producer from the Loire for me. A sparkler made from cabernet franc. Of course it's earthy and compelling in its difference.
*Bedel et Fils Champagne: LOVE FRANCOISE'S CHAMPAGNES. Favorite is the Entre Ciel et Terre. Mouthwatering champers.
*David LeClapart L'Apotre: David's champers are getting better each effort. This one is dry, touch of metal and a long lime finish. Built to last.
WHITES
*Delhommeau Muscadet: Always good to meet another compelling muscadet in a dark alley.
*Merieau Sauvignon de Touraine 2006: A great, inexpensive, expression. This Merieau makes good stuff in still wines as well.
*Domaine St. Nicolas Fiefs Vendeens Les Clous Blanc 2005
50/50 chenin, chardonnay, this was probably the wine surprise of the day with a three-star yum and shades of licorice.
*Laureau Savennieres les Genets 2004
Clean, with nice wet sweater fuzz but absolutely gripping with structure.
REDS
*Domaine St. Nicolas Pinot Noir 2005
Cherry. Zingy. Silty. My nose planted in the bowl and would not move.)
*Clos Delorme Valencay Rouge 2005
Juliette from Gramercy T and I were happily shmoozing over this one. We really enjoyed the Loire mix of gamay, cot, cabernet franc and a hint of pinot. Talk about a clutch of grapes. The 20% cabernet franc really busted through the rest. The cot gave it velvet. Great, silk velvet.
Wine Blogging Wednesday Wine: '05 Mumelter St. Magdalener
September 8, 2007
Contrary to the general feeling out there, sometimes I do show up. I don't always hide behind my computer. To prove it, I took Dr.Vino's suggestion and am throwing my voice into the ring of Blogging Wednesday or Wednesday Blogging, for September the 12th.
Here goes. The assignment was to put forward an indigenous grape from its hometown.
Bless Georg Mumelter's little heart for making this (possibly $14 dollars?) wine at Griesbauerhof, his farm situated outside the Alto Adige city of Bolzano in the DOC of St. Magdalener.
I bet the wine would taste much better in situ--such gorgeous, quasi-Alpine country up there--but here in lower Manhattan, it was extremely pretty. But just in case it made a difference, I climbed to my roof to see if the altitude changed the wine's taste. It didn't.
Schiava (aka Vernatsch,) comprises most of the blend. I have no idea what else is in this bottle, perhaps a touch of Lagrein?
And as far as its taste? Spicy, peppery, touches of aspirin and fresh strawberry in a fun-weighted wine that was entirely perky and surprising.
Rosés I Like
June 2, 2007
Lettie Teague was on to something when she wrote about rosé's being over rated. Jon Bonne at the Sanfrancisco Chronicle did something similar. And it's no wonder..most are now so sweet and stupid and spoofed they might as well me white zinfandel. Where are the real rosés?
Just had two spectacular ones which do exactly what you want a summer rosé to do, offer refreshment and yet hold your attention. Importer is Louis/Dressner.
**Baudry 2006 Chinon ($15)
Great crushed aspirin, Campari like bitterness with an edge.
**Puzelat 2004 VdT Francais KO rosé ($14)
Melon-ish on the nose with tea tartness.
West County Cider, Redfield
December 9, 2004
Forgive: Cider really does belongs in the "other" but we don't have an "other" category as yet. But, never the less, this cider is wine worthy. The Maloney's produce their lovely hard ciders in Colrain, Massachusetts and have been putting them on the market since 1984. And though I wish Terry would make this with natural yeast, he makes a very natural cider from a variety of different apples that are really classy.
This is West County Redfield cider. Made from a combo of Redfield--an old apple with some real red flesh and Dabinett. It's got a beautiful blush, as if it was the rose of the cider world. And it's a classic cider for me with a real apple-like aroma, faintly honeysuckle floral. Gently tannic which gives this drink a solid structure. Gently fizzy and just nice and tart on the lingering finish. This has enough of a touch of sweetness to give serve any easy drinking need, as a classy beer replacement or an aperitif, but the tannin gives it the bite you might like for food. Try it with a kasha knish.
