Not bad.

I know that's really enthusiastic but, it's wildly available and its pretty and under $20 which right now feels like a steal. In other words, this is a wine you can find outside of the major wine hubs and get some enjoyment.

It's got the right stuff, think cherry with suede in a drinkable weight that could stand a chill. Great bathroom literature. The kind of stuff that keeps you behind that locked door reading for a while. And best of all, it's not boring.

Tasting was ultra classy at Per Se. Even better most of the wines showed beautifully. Made me very happy.
I would love to see all or any that I've mentioned below on my own wine shelves or by the glass at a resto.
Wine buyers listen up.

J-D H has a terrific line up of sparklers.

*Merieau Method Traditionelle NV
90% chenin, 10% chardonnay. Yum. Clean apple flavor. Very chenin, very dry. Great sparkler at a great price.

*Louis Grenelle
New producer from the Loire for me. A sparkler made from cabernet franc. Of course it's earthy and compelling in its difference.

*Bedel et Fils Champagne: LOVE FRANCOISE'S CHAMPAGNES. Favorite is the Entre Ciel et Terre. Mouthwatering champers.

*David LeClapart L'Apotre: David's champers are getting better each effort. This one is dry, touch of metal and a long lime finish. Built to last.

WHITES

*Delhommeau Muscadet: Always good to meet another compelling muscadet in a dark alley.

*Merieau Sauvignon de Touraine 2006: A great, inexpensive, expression. This Merieau makes good stuff in still wines as well.

*Domaine St. Nicolas Fiefs Vendeens Les Clous Blanc 2005
50/50 chenin, chardonnay, this was probably the wine surprise of the day with a three-star yum and shades of licorice.

*Laureau Savennieres les Genets 2004
Clean, with nice wet sweater fuzz but absolutely gripping with structure.

REDS

*Domaine St. Nicolas Pinot Noir 2005
Cherry. Zingy. Silty. My nose planted in the bowl and would not move.)

*Clos Delorme Valencay Rouge 2005
Juliette from Gramercy T and I were happily shmoozing over this one. We really enjoyed the Loire mix of gamay, cot, cabernet franc and a hint of pinot. Talk about a clutch of grapes. The 20% cabernet franc really busted through the rest. The cot gave it velvet. Great, silk velvet.

This is one of those miracle $10.00 wines. I've been a fan of this Corbieres but last night when I popped it open it seemed limited. Oh yes, I said, a nice little everyday wine, satisfying but no bells and whistles. So, I plugged it up.

Then tonight I reopened the bottle and the genie flew out of the bottle. This little guy started to flash its raincoat open. What a different personality. No shy thing anymore, its grip developed and so did a tart little limey tang at the rear, the nose was raisiny, pruney, with a bit of currant, which made whoopee with porcini. It's mix is about 60% carignan with some grenache noir and syrah.

When people wonder why I get excited about wine, this wine experience is one of the reasons. Yum.

I get so many samples. 98% of them are industrial crap--even though they might be expensive. I'm always interested, however, when Faiveley shows up on my doorstep.

While I've been somewhat underwhelmed in the past few vintages I was very happy with two 2004's I recently tasted; the simple Bourgogne and the white Montagny, Domaine de la Croix Jacquelet

The basic red was not basic at all, kind of twiggy, nice vein of tannin which cut through an American Beauty rose-like pinot. A bargain at about $16. The Montagny was a tad more dense than a muscadet and had really lovely hints of preserved lemon. A very classy whitet burgundy at $20.

The top three Gamays in the All Gamay tasting gave the Coudert (about $20) and two non Beaujolais (Cousin Anjou and the Souteronne from Herve Souhaut) as the top winners. But another wine that slipped into top honors, is a lovely bargain--the 2002 Régnié from ANDRE RAMPON (about $15).

In a blind tasting the powerful wines stand out as the 'best' and something this pretty can be overlooked. But this is a very sophisticated little wine with pure, delicate rose aroma and a mix of great minerality and a touch of animal power.

I don’t know if I agree with the 20% addition of merlot but I always did like this wine. At first sniff there’s ground ivy crawling in the hills of the Catskills. Cahors doesn’t look like anything I’ve ever seen in the Catskills but it’s in this wine. Maybe I need to go to the country for a while. Maybe that’s what the wine is telling me. But the most important thing this wine is telling me is whispering to me to travel. And that’s more than I can ask for in a wine. As far as real wine speak? There’s a high-toned acidity, long tannic finish and a hint of blackberries just ready—but not too ready for picking (about $13)

(WARNING: I WANT TO DO A RIP THING HERE ON THE 2004 VINTAGE. HAD IT THE OTHER NIGHT AND ALMOST CRIED INTO THE WINE. NEW OAK, THE SCOURGE HAD LFET ITS IMPRINT ON THE WINE)

1) Gevrey Chambertin

Intense rose petal and carnation pollen.

2) Nuits St. George

Backward at this point. Kind of twiggy (a good thing). Is now throwing gas. He says this is because he just rolled the cask last week.

3) Chambolle Musigny, Les Combettes

Terroir? OK. I'll tell you terroir. I looked back at my notes on a wine I had had previously in Paris at the wine bar/resto Le Baratin. I had his 2002 Chambolle Musigny and what did I write as my note? Cinnamon. Now, I don't really think of this area as throwing cinnamon. I think of it as rosy. But here we are, two years later and there it is, my first note, cinnamon. But it has the same velvet texture, and strong intense nose that seems rather poetic.

4) Pommard

Chanel #5. Intense. It's a hotter wine with violet and raisin and a long finish.

5) Beaune 1er Cru
(Philippe tells me his plot is near Clos de la Mouche)
Floral and a touch of orange juice and black tea. Fascinating.

6) Chambolle 1er Cru (near Amoreuse & Musigny)

Backwards. Needs time. Nose is quiet, touch of tea and cherry.

7) Gevrey -Chambertin 1er Cru Les Perrières (near Mazis)
Strawberry. Dark. Still finishing up malo.

8) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (near Clos de Beze)

Very backward. More square, meaty and masculine with cumin seed.

9) Pommard 1er Cru

Mineral and stony nose with complete follow through on the palate.

10) Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru

Rosy, meaty, chewy, long and peony-like.

11) Ruchots Chambertin, GC

Built and corseted. Dominated by bones.

Was there ever a greater contrast against New World wine? This is a gamay from the Touraine area of the Loire. Decadent and heartbreakingly fragrant, playful and pure, it’s and full of lovely ripe raspberries with a vein of minerality that grounds firmly as having come from the vineyards of Clos Roche Blanche’s owner, Catherine Roussel from the winemaking genius of Didier Barrouillet. The wine, imported by Louis/Dressner, can be found for $13.

I was treating myself to three Chandon de Brailles burgs when somehow, this wine slipped into my hands. It's brought in by "Jenny & Francois" a duo I need to know more about who bring in some kick-ass wines into the States. It's beastly expensive at $36 and yes, worth it. But before you think you’re plunking down the big bucks on some no –name appellation, you might want to know that this S. Joseph-like terroir, and from vines quite near the appellation. The wine dances the line of dense and elegant. It's got a chalky, limestone minerality that is much appreciated. Underneath there's a touch of over ripe cherry and pruney plum in a syrah like silk texture and a nice tart acidic finish. So, yes, quite good. Interesting as a novelty, even a delicious wine, and I drank the bottle much too soon. It has a few years in it for sure.