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Old Barolo and the Fish of Economy: A Rant
January 16, 2008

I was reading about illegal fish in the New York Times. And it struck me how the world is about to go into starvation mode, or at least deprivation.

Forget fish or greens ($16 a pound for the best ones at Union Square), but $20-$40 for a f**ng fish and chips made or sting ray? And with the rising price of wine, $16 a bottle for every day fare with the current price increase?

And then in the middle of all of this deprivation I read Eric Asimov's regalation about the Barolos he drank at Doug Polaner's house and I threw myself over, waddled and wallowed into the muddy, gritty grave of jealousy.

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It wasn't pretty.

The fish coupled with the account of the wines Mr. A got to not taste but drink, drink, drink......he got to drink the wines that modernity tried to squelch, take to the gallows, poison, turn into Stepford wives (and did all of the above)....he got to drink the ones I long for and crave, well, reading about it made me fall off the horse of good positivity.

I am not proud of my reaction. It is terribly petty. Because there is no more worthy writer to get to taste those jewels and celebrate them. But with the price of gold so high,reality smacked me in the puss and made me feel deep in my bones that we (our nation) might well be on the verge of a beans, rice and bathtub gin diet, at least after the Loire Gamay runs out. ( I am not a sturdy girl. I won't survive. I need Barolo and greens).

But, back to the tasting. One wine he had that dug in between the T5 & T6 was the wine he said he drank of Bartolo's father that was labeled Giulio Mascarello.

I've experienced jealousy before, romantic jealousy. It sucks. Okay, that was worse but this is pretty bad. I know, it's indulgent, it's being spoiled brat, it's not like I haven't had old wine, and I don't begrudge him, in fact I am glad he could go and tell me (us) about it, but not experiencing them makes me sad. But, under the new regime of the positive me, shouldn't it make me giddy and delighted that someone who deserves them drank them?

Well, yes, I am but that's the rational. The irrational is jealous. Yet wine jealousy has no place in my new (Super Ego) guard. And if I am fair to myself, it's not even that kind of jealousy, it's kind of nose pressed to the glass kind of stuff. But that's another story.

One thing will make this rant all worthwhile and allow me to turn it into a quest instead of a tantrum is knowledge!
And for this I turn to you.

Now,that label. Mascarello wines before Bartolo had his way with them (can't remember the year but in 70's?) always were labled Cantina Mascarello, no? From whence the Guilio? And in 1971? Bartolo was certainly making the wine for the Cantina then, so what is the story on this wine? Was Guilio even alive? What if they brought him back for one last vinification gasp? How cool would that be?

This might be a job for the master of this sort of thing, Jeremy Parzen.

Let's wait. Maybe he'll show up with the answer.



Comments

A clever counterfeit from the Cellars of Hardy Rodenstock, perhaps?

Alice, Alice, Alice. Jealousy is an ugly state of mind. I tend to think that envy is actually what you're experiencing -- lusting after other people's stuff. Bad, but still not quite so ugly or debilitatingly self-destructive as full blown "I must have my neighbor's spouse" jealousy. Trust me. Been there. That's a whole other kettle of fish. (See, it does tie in to your post after all).

My reaction to Asimov's article was not quite the same. I don't mean to be smug. But it made me glad, so very glad, that I have been stuffing wine away in every nook and cranny of my basement for the past 20 years or more and, lo and behold, even though my heart is firmly planted somewhere along the Route des Grands Crus, there seems to be quite a quantity of Barolo lying around down there, going back to 1971 or so anyway. No, not wines with 100 points from Monsieur Park Aire, No, not even old Bartolo Mascarello Barolo, but some pretty damned wonderful things from less sexy joints like Marcarini, Pio Cesare, Franco-Fiorina, Luigi Einaudi, Giuseppe Mascarello, Cordero di Montezemolo. Stuff that cost, dare I say it, a song, and better still, most haven't yet acquired "collector status" so I have no need to feel guilty for drinking a significant chunk of my daughter's future college education every time I pull a cork and sip one.

And yes, the old ones were not the wines of today. Uusually started out somewhat pale, tough as nails, yet somehow delicately floral when they were young. And at 10 or 20 or 30 years old, they've softened, but are still wines that mostly grab you by the nostrils, lay lightly on the palate, and then play endless aromatic games with you as they find their way down the gullet. Monsieur Park Aire would hate these wines. Not "concentrated" and "hedonistic" enough. Thank God.

Deprivation mode. What did you expect? We live in a world too stupid to stop driving SUVs and oversized pickup trucks to pick up a quart of milk from the corner store; and too dumb to pause for one brief moment of self-awareness to consider how much of our wealth -- economic and environmental -- is being piddled away to put fuel in the tank. "I'm shocked, shocked I tell you, to find that oil is $100 a barrel and the value of our currency is eroding." Oh, please. We eat so damned much that morbid obesity is epidemic; we borrow gobs of money to buy things we cannot possibly afford and feign helpless surprise when it comes time to pay up; we yammer incessantly on cell phones, anytime anywhere, and mourn the demise of civility.

My seven year old has got cause and effect figured out better than that.

Chambolle on February 23, 2008 06:02 PM
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