Hi Alice,
Nice to see your iconoclasm recognised - i find it increasingly difficult to read the US and UK main wine press with any sense of belief that my wine knowledge will improve. Despite the image of a Fosterised Australia, there's a growing swell of young winemakers here ( my french friends endearingly say winmackers ) who are using much less new oak, picking at lower alcohol levels and are trying to gain freshness and a natural sense of place. Many useful hygene and technically great things can be learnt at our wine universities; sadly homogenised wines have often been the result. A new, confident middle ground seems to be emerging in Victoria in particular - cabernet with soft Yarra valley tannins not buried in wood, fresh chardonnays with no mlf and little skin contact, they're not chablis but you can drink them. A young winemaker i know told his money conscious employer he could save $10k last year in one small act - easy, buy less oak. It seems we may head towards that amazing place where technical knowledge is only a tool in gaining typicity and drinkability and is used with RESTRAINT. YOU ARE VERY RIGHT ABOUT M. ROLLAND.
Ironically one place where a litlle more rigour would be a good thing is Italy - shocking winemakers. Piemonte perhaps grows some of the best grapes on the planet - amazing juice. if I open one more badly sulphidic barbera or dolcetto, I probably won't be suprised - do a sulphide taste test you lazy go to lunch people and try a tiny bit of microx ( it does have some uses ) or a little copper ( natural burgundians have inadvertently been doing it with brass taps and such stuff for years ).
So, please continue your worthy crusade for taste and stand up to the male ego maniac wine knowalls who would destroy both progress and traditional regional differences at the same time. We need more articulate balance.
I just tasted Claude Papin's 2005 Anjou reds - they are what they are - wines from a warming Loire at 14% but still clean, delicious. long living examples of very carefully grown, typically 'Spilite' grapes. A tenth the price of Les Super Rollands.--Andrew

Congratulations, Alice. Bravo for you. Well deserved praise.

As to the "shocking winemakers" bit from Andrew. A rather broad brush there, my boy. But overvaunted Piemonte and Tuscany are full of their little tricks, I do admit.