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What Does the Top Wine of the Year Mean?
November 18, 2007

I ground the coffee, boiled the water and poured into the French Press. I slipped a polar fleece vest over my ice blue, silk, loungey thing. Looking like quite the morning apparition, I plodded down the stairs to collect the paper, praying my neighbors were still asleep. I climbed back up the stairs, happy to have completed the mission in privacy. Once back inside my apartment, I plunged the coffee, pour in the heated milk and opened the paper.

Did you ever think you were going to get this intimate with me?

Mid-cup, I saw yet another FULL PAGE ad for the Wine of the Year from the Wine Spectator in the Times and realized that I forgot to look. So, to make amends, I headed to the computer and fired up the Wine Spec site to find out who was the champ.

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Clos des Papes Chateauneuf de Pape. Chateauchamp of the year.

I really liked that wine in the 90's when it was affordable in its pre-Parkerized era. But now that it's $75 + a bottle, I haven't tasted it in quite a while. I'm sure it's big and bold and dense but perhaps still safe from new oak and does not have a 'marketer' or an advertising budget so I assume the tasting group at WS really did like it. What's not to like. But what IS a Wine of the Year?

On their video presentation they explained their choice as one that was unanimous. it was the wine that they all agreed on at a tasting! That seems so peculiar to me. The wine of the year was from a tasting and not from drinking? And, the wine of the year was a collective decision?

That’s politics, not passion. A mass decision for the masses doesn't seem to be fueled with enough emotion to warrant full page ads in the Times for several days running. I mean if Bruce Sanderson said, the wine he could not get out of his head, the wine that haunted him all year was the Chateauneuf du Pape, I might be curious.

And so I thought about the issue of The Top Wine. I thought. I rode my bike. I DID NOT GO CONTRA DANCING (all dressed up and just couldn’t do it even though I love it so much. You know, balance and swing and sweat and gypsy and waltz and pass through.) instead I went to Margot at the Wedding (commendable but disappointing) and thought some more.

The top wine of the year to me is one that I couldn’t have survived the year without. The wine of the year has to be something I am happy to drink every day. It is a wine that gives as much comfort as my favorite books or sweater. It is home in the best sense and never fails to excite, and I can afford it. For me the top wine is the one that pulled me out of the trenches. The previous year it was a 2005 Clos Roche Blanche Gamay. This year? Ladies and Gentlemen,

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.... Clos Roche Blanche again, their Arpent Rouge! From the red zinger of grapes, Pineau d'Aunis. I might add that Pierre Rovani, remember him? Used to work for Robert Parker? Well, Rovani a few years back, referred to the grape that grows beautifully in the Loire as a "talking dog. It can speak but it was nothing to say."

I believe, I drained the market of every last bottle. Bring on the talking dogs.

I am sorry about that. But what could I do? My survival was at stake.


Comments

Jeez Alice! Now I know why we never got any Arpent here in CA! Instead, I slurped my way through many bottles of their "PIF", enjoying every minute of it (on your recommendation, I might add).
Can't afford many CdPs anymore, and I don't believe the price hikes are entirely the Euro's fault. Thank God Parker & Co don't like Loire reds!

Hank on November 19, 2007 03:09 AM

Nah. Wine of the year is Angeli Anjou La Lune 2005!

Jake Parrott on November 19, 2007 12:37 PM

Yellow Tail Shiraz South Eastern Australia
The Reserve 2005 coming in at #72 (90 points) sealed the deal for me....I'm moving....

BR on November 19, 2007 03:09 PM

So you're the culprit - I thought it was Asimov and the Times.

"If this post is sounding like a thinly veiled selfish rant, you’re right. Asimov and Bruni are not telling anyone on this site anything new, they’re preaching to the choir. Just try and find a bottle of L’Arpent Rouge this week."

Jason on November 19, 2007 03:29 PM

The presence of the Yellow Tail on the list would be plenty reason to move out of the country, if the Spectator was voted in to run things I'd be on the first canoe across the Atlantic and go live in a cave in the Loire.

After looking over the 100 list it seems that the point of such a list is that there's enough room to appease advertisers.

Somehow the vision of seeing either Matthews or Sanderson happily drinking Yellow Tail seems like something out of Monty Python.

Alice on November 19, 2007 03:40 PM

I shouldn't tell you this, but they still have L'Arpent at Harlem Vintage. I'm busy draining their supply! Here's to the Real Wine of the Year.

Meg on November 19, 2007 03:55 PM

And, I understand that Chambers will be getting in a few more cases.

This, by the way, is the second time a pineau d'aunis was a winner at the New York Times Thanksgiving. I think the first time was Chaussard's Longue Vigne. Astor Place blasted through it in a few hours. And then got lots of complaints because people thinking it was something like Yellow Tail were disappointed and didn't quite understand.

Alice on November 19, 2007 04:27 PM

What if Wine Spectator chose their wine of the year the way Time Magazine chooses their "Man of the Year?" In that, it's not necessarily the BEST in their opinion, but the most newsworthy, controversial, evil, or influential--like the Mahmoud Ahmadinejad of wine, or the You Tube--but with wine, and explain why. Now that would be interesting.

Sarah on November 19, 2007 05:38 PM

I found Close Roche Blanche kind of by accident earlier this year and bought up all that I could find in SF. As a relative neophyte, it's nice to have the confirmation that not only to SOME people agree with my palette, but so do a lot of people. Cheers!

rob on November 19, 2007 05:42 PM

Nicely called, from morning coffee to canoeing to a cave in the Loire.

I christened the Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon my wine of the year in 06 for similar reasons -- it's got to be a wine that will pick you up and that you can pick up everyday. (And I pretty much did, pairing it with Afghan food, hauling it across borders... shouldn't these be the things you'd expect the Wine Spec crew would be doing all year long to arrive at their answer?)

So, without doubt, the part of your post that really made me sit up was: "The wine of the year was from a tasting and not from drinking?"

The rhetorical question of the year! And with that, you've proven to me it's an in-crowd decision that's all about the ads.

Marcus on November 20, 2007 01:44 PM

Damn, that's good wine.

SFJoe on November 20, 2007 04:25 PM

based on the same criteria for wine of the year (comforting, personal, would enjoy it every day), this is the post of the year, for me. I've read it four times now and i like it more each time.

Brooklynguy on November 21, 2007 09:11 PM

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A "WINE OF THE YEAR," or even a "Top 100 Wines of the Year." There are, however, still too many interesting wines to count. Humble and honest wines. Wines that make you want to drink more on a warm breezy summer day out on the deck, with the sun glancing off the bay and a cool steamed Dungeness crab, a salad and a baguette on the table. Wines that say "wild flowers" and wines that say "limestone," wines that say all sorts of stuff. Grand old wines you will remember for decades. Silly young wines that work just fine right now. Need I go on?

Few if any of these wines make it onto the Wine Speculator's "Top 100" list -- and when they do, it seems to be largely by the chance intersection of the criteria applied and the wine's most obvious characteristics (i.e., the wine stands up and shouts when it is tossed in a blind tasting with 20 other victims, and may even be heard over the static generated by the taster's penchant for torching too many cigarettes and cigars and eating way too much for his own good, and it is more or less available at any retailer with a reasonably broad selection on offer).

Ten days to two weeks ago, 2005 Clos des Papes was readily available and selling at full bore retail in the $60 to $70 per bottle range, $125 to $150 per magnum. Still a lot of money for what it is, but not completely beyond reality given the weak dollar and the attention the producer has gotten from Herr Parker and the Wine Speculator over the past few years. But since it was anointed Numero Uno, "la rubia que todos quieren," the wine has been allocated and is selling for between $175 and $250 per bottle. I've seen magnums offered at $500 and up.

To paraphrase a not so great man: "there's a lemming born every minute." So raise your glass of Chinon "Les Picasses," or Fleurie "Clos de la Roilette," or Domaine Tempier rose, or Mugnier Chambolle, or whatever happens to be at hand or in the cellar that strikes your fancy. Toast the lemmings and thank heavens you are not one of the folks in that long line marching over the brink.

chambolle on November 26, 2007 11:28 PM

Found one.....Tasted it.......Loved it!

Fun, fun, wine.

Thanks for exposing me to a new producer, grape, and wine today.

Kim on December 4, 2007 05:56 PM
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