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L'Atelier, NYC Four Spanks
July 31, 2007

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IN FOOD & WINE I have been lucky. I’ve been to L’Atelier and La Table du Robuchon in Paris several times and at each visit I've drunk something alluring and the food memories hang on..I still can conjure the extreme flavor of the gaspacho and delicate mackerel from two years ago.

I haven’t been to his New York operation at 57 East 57th Street, but the other day, my friend Pam sent me the L'Atelier wine list with a request. “Could you find a drinkable white for J.R’s birthday? He has his heart set on a lovely, minerally, edgy white burgundy around $100.“

I looked.
I searched.
I gave up.

At best, this list is awful. At worst it is disrespectful to both customer and chef. When I get my mitts on a list like this I have to wonder who is sleeping with who, or who is in bed with who. Because no one who cares could possibly, in their wildest thoughts mess up a list for a restaurant with Joel at the helm.

I’m not big on points but I give this list a ranking of 4 spanks out of 5. Not only is it stupidly expensive for what you get (cheapest wine is $60 for the practically supermarket tier Chateau de Jau)---boring and predictable, lacks total imagination. And Robuchon's recipes might be on autopilot but the taste of his food is anything but.


Whoever cobbled together this pathetic creation put down their three Chablis in the Cote de Beaune section of the wine list. Chablis doesn’t even share a border with Beaune. Obviously this is a list one cannot trust in more ways than one.

So, I suggested my friends order the 2004 Crochet Sancerre instead at $7c. Or the Pibarnon Rose at $65.

I really think it takes balls to have as your cheapest wine by the glass some crap like Raspail-Ay Reserve Gigondas…at $16. If I was ordering a wine by the glass the only white I could drink would be the $16, 2004 Alsatian Riesling “Beblenheim”, Domaine M. Deiss, 2004. For red it would have to be the 2002 Clos de Cortons, Faiveley , $45 a glass! Obviously, I like Faively but not that much. I’d have to buy a bottle, even though I know the bottle prices are marked up between 3 & 4 times retail which gauls me. (The aforementioned Ch. De Jau? I think that’s 5.5 times retail ).

L’ATELIER TIP: This is one restaurant where you really should avoid the cheapest wines and go for something in the 70-85 price point for both value and flavor.

If you go here is the strategy.

Best buys are in the Rhone, but avoid the chateauneufs as most of them, save the Beaucastel (2002 @ $230--only four times and change retail!) are newly oaked and highly Parkerized. Lower priced wines exist in the largish Langeudoc, SW section, but all avoidable. And out of all of the delicious cabernet franc in the Loire, you can avoid those too.

In Paris, the Bordeaux section is nicely neglected. Here, L’Atelier has decided the NY drinker, like the Las Vegas drinker needs to guzzle them. There are plenty to choose from in a range of prices. While most are the newer vintages that I have no use for, there are a couple of older wines on the list, so you won't go thirsty. But if you want to spend less than $350, best to back track to the Rhone section and glug down the syrah.

Now here are my picks from the low to the high.

LOW WHITE BURGUNDY:
Drink Sancerre $76

HIGH WHITE BURGUNDY
2001 Domaine LeFlaive ,Chevalier Montrachet $680.


LOW RED BURGUNDY
2001 C. Armand AUXEY-DURESSES 1er Cru $135

HIGH RED BURGUNDY
1990 DRC Richebourg $4000
2001 Rousseau Chambertin $520


*LOW RHONE:
2004 Domaine A. Graillot, Crozes-Hermitage. $70.
2004 "Mon Coeur" Sélection J-L Chave $75

*HIGH RHONE:
2002 T. Allemande Cornas $185

*LOW BORDEAUX
1983 Haut-Marbuzet $340

*HIGH LEFT BANK BORDEAUX
1990 Château Lafite-Rothschild $1800

*HIGH RIGHT BANK BORDEAUX
1988 Pétrus $1750


Or you could go to Provence on 38 Macdougal! Went there last night, lovely wine list that is so fairly priced and now that Mark is in the kitchen the food is just fresh and, almost perfect vibrant flavors. It is exactly as it should be. They're also pouring Domaine Pepiere's gorgeously focused cabernet franc by the glass for $10.


Comments

It's not just Mark in the kitchen, it's Lee on the list! Went by the other night, but it was slammed.

Ever seen the list at La Grenouille? It will give this one a run for its money. Utterly cynical or oblivious.

SFJoe on August 1, 2007 09:20 PM

Somehow knowing that the wines are (OK, not great but.) so much better on the Paris list makes it a wee bit more egregious. But I see what you mean. La Grenouille's idea of Loire wine is Ladoucette.

Alice on August 1, 2007 09:33 PM

"They're also pouring Domaine Pepiere's gorgeously focused cabernet franc by the glass for $10."

Lovely wine - Outrageous price.

goatwattle on August 2, 2007 06:00 AM

Actually, very fair price. Pours are generous. And what's more, industry standard is to charge by the glass what the whole bottle would cost retail. This pricing is closer to the wholesale.

Alice on August 2, 2007 12:39 PM

A "low Bordeaux" for how much??

Madness. Even if I had the money, I don't think I'd waste it on such outrageous ripoffs.

Take me to a good little place on the LES or Hudson St. and give me wonderful food with wine at unplutocratic prices.

Terry Hughes on August 3, 2007 06:10 PM

Now there's a restaurant that deserves to have its liquor license revoked. I'll never eat there but if confronted with such a list anywhere else I'd happily drink beer or, assuming they botch the choices there too, water.

Steve L. on August 6, 2007 05:18 AM

Bruni gave this place three stars!! How can he justify 3 stars for a place that serves wine this bad? I had the same experience here. Was terribly disappointed and disgusted with the wine program.

byron bates on August 8, 2007 10:19 PM

Hey Byron, Tell us what you ended up drinking?
I think that's a great rule though, remove a star for such an appalling wine list. But maybe it was going to be 4-star and went down to 3 because of the wine? -Alice

Alice on August 8, 2007 10:23 PM

Alice, I've just stumbled onto your site. It's a hoot. Good to run into someone who does not lack for opinions and the cojones to state them loud and clear. I've not had the pleasure of a trip to Robuchon's temple of dining in NYC -- there's the small matter of a few thousand miles between my home and his little neighborhood boite. But your description of the wine list could apply to quite a few NYC restaurants, based on my recent experiences in Gotham. Unless these establishments are delivered a wake up call in the form of bad press and customers ready willing and able to vote with their feet, this kind of abuse will remain all too commonplace. Yes, your rents in Gotham are high, but please, there is no good excuse for putting a $10 bottle of not very palatable wine from the corner Safeway on the list of a top tier restaurant, much less any explanation why that wine ought to cost $75 a bottle. In the case of a restaurant run by someone with Robuchon's star power, the only explanation one can come up with is unmitigated arrogance somewhere along the food chain. It is quite possible M. Robuchon really doesn't know what he's doing winewise -- which could well be the case, as I've seen more than one chef of the French persuasion who puts his own wine list together and assumes that being French and knowing how to cook means he necessarily knows all he needs to know about wine, despite having spent no time or effort figuring out which end is up with the fermented grape. Or perhaps M. Robuchon is completely focused on his food and has been cajoled into turning control of the wine list over to someone who is a scoundrel and/or a know-nothing with scar tissue where his taste buds and olfactory bulb ought to be. But in most cases, there is a solution, at least when one is close to home: bring your own wine, pay the corkage, pass a glass to the kitchen as a peace offering and take full responsibility for your own enological well being, even if that means bringing your own glassware to the party, too. In my view, there is no good excuse for drinking bad wine, and there are but rare occasions when I cannot contrive a way to avoid doing it. It's particularly pathetic to be resigned to drinking bad wine when there is transcendent food on the plate in front of you. You may as well slather your food with Gulden's hot dog mustard as drink some godawful Clos de Peugeot or other with your meal and pay through the nose for the privilege. Granted, there are places where this just isn't possible. If that is also a place with a well chosen list of its own, fine. If it is a place where I know the wine is bad and overpriced, there's that little thing about voting with your feet I spoke about earlier. Just say no! Particularly in NYC, there is no shortage of places to have an excellent meal and a solid, interesting and fairly priced bottle of wine or two, whether it's off the house list or something you toted in the door yourself. I'd no more knowingly and willingly go to a restaurant with an insulting and stupid wine list than I would patronize a place with stupid and insulting staff in the front room, no matter how good the food and no matter how much "buzz" the place may generate.

David on August 12, 2007 11:19 PM

Hi David, Thanks so much for writing. Yes, rent is high, and that adds to the cost but there is no excuse for a list. I wish more people viewed it as disrespectful to the dining public. However, not all NYC restaurants are as guilty. When you come to town, write me a note and I'll supply you with a list. OK? --Alice

Alice on August 12, 2007 11:40 PM

Alice: I do have clients in NYC and get there reasonably often, so your thoughts on good places would definitely be helpful. I probably know just enough about what's what in Gotham eateries to be dangerous. Favorites have come and gone but Cafe Boulud, Savoy, Fleur de Sel (although some bad reports lately from friends), Casa Mono, Bouley, Gramercy Tav, Chanterelle have been standbys of sorts.

David on August 13, 2007 01:20 AM
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