Now writing from the newly revamped Press Room in Vin Italy, the almost overwhelming wine fair in rainswept Verona. This is quite a change from Piedmont where the sun was brilliant and the snow-capped mountains where clearly visible in the distance. (tip: if affordable, buy all of the 2002 Nebbiolos you can from your favorite producers, they can be brilliant as the best wine makers declassified their Barolos). Anyway, visits with Marie Therese Mascarello, Baldo Cappelano and Roberto Conterno were brilliant ( as well as depressing). More details upon return.

Back to Vin Italy.

Last night took a simple meal at an enoteca (Il Carro Armato) right next to the Due Torre Baglioni, (the five star hotel, I an NOT staying in), salad, cheese and a 50euro bottle of 1997 Quintarelli Valpollicella. Sparky with nailpolish remover-like acidity, gamey aromas and --well,I don't really have time to go into it. Bumped into Joe Bastianich, David Rossoff (ex-wine guru of LA who now works for the Bastianich empire). They were drinking Azelia Barolo (unfortunate) and a Bricco dei Manzoni bastardization of international grapes marked by invasive new wood.

Melissa and I were very happy with Quintarelli.

I've a cold, so tasting is compromised. But my purpose is--stuffed nose or not-- to taste as many Baroli as possible for my Barolo chapter. I have news of Scanavino but the old man refused to see me.

Off to see how Marc Degrazia is still having his Barolo producers manipulate their wine. Can't wait. In short, I thought the wine revoltion has caught up with this part of the world, but it has not. Things are in a rather depressed state. New wood is not quite as prevalent but there are other distortions afoot.

--A