Why The Jura Matters

The first time I had a wine from the Jura that I was aware of? It was about a decade ago at Acquavit. I was there for dinner and saw this wine....Puffeney Vin Jaune. I had no idea what to expect but I had heard buzz about the producer. I was in the mood for white, or what the hell, yellow. I ordered it. The sommelier, without raising an eyebrow, decorked, poured. I knew it wasn't bad but it certainly wasn't what I had in mind and it certainly wasn't a wine to have with dinner. Ronny and I suffered through the difficult, band-aid aromas and flavors, finally making it to the cheese course when we gave ourselves over to the pairing with relief. What the wine director was thinking, to put it on a list of white wines with no warning, was worthy of a wine felony. Then, I admit, it was late to the white grape I have come to love, savignin. I went direct to the reds, poulsard (called ploussard if you happen to come from the town of Pupillin) and trousseau captivated me. If you're a card carrier in the pineau d'aunis, gamay-and -proud- of -it club, you're going to love these grapes; region originals. Savignin came later to me, and when it did, it was like pot. You know, like, you don't get high the first time but the second? Same thing for me. I love it in all of its forms, the oxidized kind for more on oxidative wines, read Pamela Govinda's piece in Imbibe Magazine under that fuzz the wine develops those sherry, nutty aromas and flavors. In this particular grape, I love the earthy lemon flavors that sort of remind me of a muscadet but mountain raised. Other reasons to love the region. Why does the region matter? Comte cheese and Mont d'Or. The fact that it has a history of being fiercely independent and all of that comes out through the wine attititude. That in some 37,000 acres (including the three appelations of Arbois, Chateau Chalon and Etoile) a significant percentage are making natural wines and more headed in that direction. That many have not dumbed down their wines for the international market. That Louis Pasteur the father of modern winemaking (and thus the beginning of the end) was born there and I could spend hours looking at the museum with his well preserved labortory. The perfect place to nail the color of sulfur When was the last time I saw a cow stroll in a vineyard? Bone like limestone and shell in the soil. The most amazing display of fossils. All is obviously not perfect! And in the middle of Chateau Chalon no less In the middle of Etoile. The bowl of Chateau Chalon--where the most complex and fierce Vin Jaune originates. Bonnard, first met him in 2007, but could not visit when in Pupillin. Gorgeous Trousseau, 2006 drunk last night. Yum. That Pasteur and I shared a love of both violet and ink And the producers I love? Coup de Coeur *Ganevat *Bourdy *Montbourgeau (the cremant is just gorgeous) *de La Tournelle Overnoy Bonnard Angina attacks *Bindernagel *Puffeney *L'Octavin *Dugois *Jean Michel Petite With honorable digitalis mentions to: *Domaine de la Pinte & *Berthet-Bondet If you want to find out why Eric loves the wines as well? See his recent article