Amphora. Anfora
The curvaceous containers are the hottest thing since the Nomblot egg. Like Biodynamics, winemakers are experimenting. Even Nicolas Joly is rumored to be experimenting, though, when I was last in his cellar in February, I saw no clues.
There is some dude in Napa with amphora
Do we know why these are so hot? Are they fad or fate? Why should clay be better than concrete, mere history? I was hoping this would provide some insight. Or at least open the debate.
I've had a Josko Gravner or two I've liked. I kind of like Cos Pithos, which is also unsulfured, though I find his niece's wine, Arianna Occipinti's non-amphora wines, much more compelling and complex. I love the Georgian Kisi, but as a category, I greatly prefer it to new wood, and if someone has to spend a lot of money on a fermentation vessel, better clay then toasted oak.
On the menu for the evening were:
2001, 2002, 2003 Gravner Anfora "Breg"
2001, 2002, 2003 Gravner Anfora Ribolla
2005 Vodopivec Vitovska "Orange Stripe" (and truly orange in color)
2006, 2005 COS "Pithos"
2006, 2007 Guttarolo "Anfora" Primitivo
Crowd was geeky. Many were fresh off of the Dressner tasting. Conversation was terrific.
THE ANFORA EFFECT?
Some people thought that the anfora had a moderating effect on vintage difference. I thought the anfora allowed the vintage difference to be clear. 2001, high acid, 2002, lacking in intensity yet replaced fruit with flower. 2003, was lush. All though that the Ribolla showed more vintage difference than the Breg, which is a blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Riesling.
That makes sense, as well, look at champagne, the prince of blends.
Where the orange wine tasting proved that orange comes in many flavors, I heard some burblings that the anfora had a muting effect.
Was this an aspect of the oxygenation nature of clay? Or was this a reaction to all of us being so used to stainless steel as a container, which almost spray paints the wine with clarity?
The reds were more interesting to me. And some of them crazy. Like the 2006 Guttarolo, which is a primitivo from Puglia. The 2006 was wacked out, stinky match as if it had a sulfur problem. Reduction big time with a big great dollop of fresh bundled hay. Would have loved to have it with 48 hours of air time. The 07 was classic, old fashioned yet simple Primitivo.
I went hunting at the evening's end for something I knew was hidden, probably under the table.
I knew there was a Frank Cornellissen Munjabel or two around.
Seth Hill, wine consultant and who is involved with the new shop, Bottles, came to the rescue. Almost as if he were slipping me a tab of something mind altering, he flashed the #3, a vintage blend, which he pinched from the man (name escapes me) from Crush on 57th.
Rickety, lush, sun baked, can't say this had any clarity once it got down my throat, because then it had one big yawn of hoppy craziness. This was puppy breath from a full litter.
I liked it. Of course I did. This was a nut job of a wine. For sure. Worth the $? Not sure, but I imagine this is bottled Frank Cornellissen's personality. I feel like I know the man.
Josh Greene, editor of Wine & Spirits was a little horrified. But wines like this are like family to me already. The argumentative uncle who I really love.
However, at the end of the evening a real treat was laid upon us. "Now it's time for something really fun." Levi said. We all listened.
shot stolen from SFJoe
Suitcased in to NYC as a gift to Levi from Sharon Bowman
this was a never seen in US cuvee of Morgon from Foillard. The Cuvee 314. The wine of the evening. Conventional unsulfured wine, normal elevage, no amphora, from the gorgeous hill of Py. No tricks. Just great wine.
Next up: wine discussion with Eric Texier
Amphora at Domaine Viret, a wine absent from the Levi Dalton/Convivo anfora tasting last night.