Recent Posts in Wine

1st Stop Cayuse
March 12, 2010
Christophe Baron, aka the Bionic Frog, settled in Walla Walla when he fell in love with a river bed. He thought Chateauneuf. Well, a Chateauneuf with much darker stones. But you get the idea. Christophe said he was attracted to the vine freedom of America, but I'm not sure what exactly why he decided to go whole hog with biodynamics. It seems to suit him and the wines quite well. The whole operation is like an oiled glove and it smacks of Virgo with Leo rising. When I was there in 2004, the place was a work in progress. Now? He's got 55 acres and a real winery with Noblot eggs and other more conventional but gorgeous cement fermenters. Outside in the beginning of March the horse was plowing, the workers were toiling away rather happily. Each vine is tied with straw. The elements are obsessive. In biodynamic spirit, Christophe added pigs, bunnies, cows, chickens and sheep as well as cherry trees. He's even preparing this kind of land next, in the 'canyon.' There is no doubt that this is the work of a maniac, and I say this in only the most complimentary way, in fact he's a little...

And the final day...
March 9, 2010
I was ultimately in the area to be part of a round table on wine homogenization. On the panel was a man often called the Michel Rolland of Spain. When our moderator, an adorable Cristina Alcala asked us, Ignacio as well as Cesar Cubillas, a rather simpatico wine importer, what are the components of great wine, Ignacio said, "Land is the least important." Then he went on to tell us about a viognier he made far, far, away on soils and in a climate that even made Ignacio wonder if planting the grapes and making the wine would disturb the natural order of the universe. A woman in the front row glared at me. She probably heard what I was thinking and hated me. It was her favorite wine. That night, Cristina, Rosa and Marta, all friends from Madrid went out to dinner. Remember this address, it was one of the best meals I've had in ages. Talent. Big talent. Casa Marcelo Rue Hortas 1 Santiago de Copostela casamarcelo.net amuse was frozen rhubarb, looking like a slab of tuna on crushed ice, all bitter, sweet, limey, acidic. A lovely alvarinho. Loved it. From Marcial Dorado,, previously a Galcian mussel fisherman...

Galicia. Ribeira Sacra(Part 5). Hijacked
March 9, 2010
On Monday morning I, with the help of a local sommelier, headed out to see what I could see in Ribeira Sacra, about two hours from Santiago. Stunning. Steep. The hills have ghost vineyards underneath the brush. At one point before World War 11. the mountains were covered with terraces and now you can just feel the erosion. It's wet. The soil sags. And when you're talking about a potential 80 degree tilt to the land, disaster is around the corner. Even I began to think, perhaps it's time to retire this land. Of course you can't grown anything else on it. Vines can survive. It is not for wheat, not tomatoes nor potatoes. It is vineland. But I have to say I really was wondering if after centuries, as the Ribeira can claim wine back to Roman times, perhaps it's time to give the land and the farmer a break. I was happy to see this magical place, with rose quartz proudly strutting its prettiness in the vineyard. But ladies and gentlemen, I was hijacked. On the way up I asked my host, "Where are were going?" I admit, I asked because I was not trusting. He responded, "Where...

Galicia (Part 2)
February 28, 2010
Because I liked Todd's wine so much and because it seemed as if he was a lone ranger kind of guy, I was interested to know what his Galicia looked like. I knew the commercial face, a lot of wine I couldn't drink. Gallo is rules there with its brands like Martin Codax and Kendall-Jackson is buiding a big estate --plantations are underway. I had been warned by the marketing arm that organic is very difficult in Galicia,so wet, I was told. See the celery green part of the map north of Pontevedra? That's the region, the Val do Salnes. First to his vineyards. Todd wants very much to focus on single vineyard albarinos. This was in his organic one--the kind of organic they say is so hard to do ;) in back of a church. The spongy, healthy soil---with diviets from the massive amounts of rain--was filled with thyme and mint and chunks of remarkable red/pink granite. I never saw this kind of granite in soil, gorgeous stuff and they were all around. To see them in the sun might have been exquisite, like TinkerBells in the vineyard. But it was as green as Ireland and as soggy. Inside...

From Millesime Bio to Galicia! (Part 1)
February 27, 2010
When I was in MB, otherwise known as Millesime Bio, Frederik Kolderup, the energetic Norwegian wine importer, coffee fanatic who travels with his own grinder, and lover of the more nat'l the better, ordered me to check an American making albarino in Rias Biaxis. Hell, you know me, good 'ole skeptic. But it was Frederik, so I did. What I found was Albarino that wasn't: 1) sweet 2) tropical 3) sauvignon blancish 3) creamy. Not only that but the winemaker and part owner of Benito Santos--Todd Blomberg-- an American who fell in love with a Galician and has lived there for a decade--is working naturally, with a brain that keeps on ticking. He's intent on eliminating S02 usage. His method involved a butter churner. Blomberg only makes albarino and is working on single vineyards. Two elements that drew me to his wines were: a lovely bitterness and a fresh, attention grabbing acidity. You see, acidity is something that I've found lacking in albarino of late as trying to appeal to a mass palate, too many winemakers are deacidifying, capturing sweetness in the wine, and basically reconfiguring nature, reasons I stopped drinking the stuff. According to Todd, the Benito Santos vines...

Remise Flashback
February 16, 2010
Before the organic wine tasting in Montpelier, I was headed to La Remise, a tasting which had a reputation as one of those wild and wooly bad boy tastings with mostly were unhealthy advertisements for unsulfured wine. If that had once been true, the tasting has matured. But don't worry, it hasn't matured that much. When La Gramiere Amy and I arrived, people were milking sea rocks--otherwise known as slurping back those mammoth Utah Beach oysters. We scrounged like rodents and came across the worlds most delicious short and dense cookies. Then off to work. Herve Souhaut's 2009. 'nuf said. Truly gorgeous vintage for him. I don't need tastings notes. It doesn't matter. But all around, the wines have a lushness worthy of lushes and those who are amongst the 'anti-flavor elite.' Nothing artificial in these flavors for sure. Podere Le Boncie Chianti with freshness Azienda Panevino Dressner scarfed this one up ( I think more accurately Kevin McKenna). My first sip was that this was Anthony Wilson wine. And the winemaker gets extra cute score as well. Conversation of the day: Had with Andrea Calek, who showed up with a new hacked at haircut and a twinkle in his...

On the way to La Remise
February 11, 2010
The next day, I headed south and stayed the night with Matt Kling and Amy Lillard of La Gramiere, ex-pats who became accidental vigneron, because as Amy said, "We do everything on impulse." Amy laughed a particular kind of laugh, a good-natured, self-effacing laugh that seems to say, "The joke is on me!" Earlier that evening, close to sunset, she picked me up in a near by town next to the church. This being Sunday, the town was silent, except for the cats. At the cafe adjacent to the church a man stood in the window, picking his nose without apology. She arrive with husband Matt. Dogs barking in the car. Quick, to the vines before night fell. This is Lauzette, her favorite, "It makes such gorgeous grenache," she said. Then, onto their farmhouse in St. Quentin la Poterie where Matt stuffed the ravioli . Meanwhile, excellent hostess, she fetched a Cyril Bouchard Inflorescence Blanc de Noirs. She took that first sip with such glee I swear she was saying, "Oh goodie!" The champagne deserved the enthusiasm and Amy deserved applause for such graciousness. The wine is all pinot noir, not dosed up, sky meets earth. Too hard to talk...

Spring Eternal
February 10, 2010
On my only Saturday night in Paris I was going to hook up with my friend Magazino, Mr. TruffleTruck himself, who was i n town with his lovely wife. I waited for them while browsing at Spring Boutique on Rue L'Arbre Sec. Poking about, I was disappointed to see that the boutique was not this perfect little food find as advertised on blogs throughout France, but more of a caviste (decent) and also stocked some products, like common tapenade I can get around the corner from home, at the local Met supermarket. Given that the wine bar/caviste Le Garde-Robe is just across the street, their competition is fierce. "I want fries," Magazino said immediately upon arrival. "I don't care where we eat as long as we have fries." I repeat, this was Saturday night in Paris with no reservations and were on a mission to find good fries and great wine. As far as I could see, Mike Steinberger's Au Revoir to All of That, was true; food no longer existed in France. All of my wine bar standbys were booked. We were looking into the mouth of an epicurean disaster. We enlisted Josh to help brainstorm a restaurant. Josh...

1999 Ploussard Perdu. (Lessons Learned)
February 7, 2010
I knew this would be a life changing trip. I'm not willing to spend another ten years in therapy so I have to take those lessons where I get them. Of those I am currently working on? 1) Take the Money and Run 2) Ask for what you need. 3) Be More Positive! 4) Lose the Guilt The Ploussard Perdu was a classic illustration of how and why I need to integrate these life pointers with speed. Not a moment to lose. The Overnoy was a mere 21 euro. That very night would have been my only chance to drink it. Bringing it to dinner at the Cousin's would be perfect. Digging into my euro stash I purchased, I would have bought two if they had taken Amex. I thought of it all the way up to the Cousin's house. Olivier welcomed up with some fresh, snappy Pet Nat. I presented the wine, wrapped in tissue. Olivier with pet chicken before dinner. That was the mistake. I presented it. It was a gift. In no way did I suggest a partager. I expected him to know. Now, you tell me, how many love affairs and marriages have fallen by the...

From 2 Anes to Toulouse
February 4, 2010
I should start at the beginning, but I need to tell you about something that happened in the middle. The punishing wind, the sweet asses, Millesime Bio and Domaine des 2 Anes behind us we Jenny, Francois (of the selections) and Kate, the lasagna maker and crack sales chick, took the road for the seven -hour drive up north. One hour into it, I saw the Toulouse signs. "Hey! Anthony said there was a great wine bar around here." I quickly scanned my old texts, and sure enough there it was, Le Temps des Vendange. Francois' iPhone GPS guided us through the most visually unusual French city I'd ever been. I'm used to Frenchly white and yellow and bone tinted cities. Limestone cities. Cement cities. But this one could have been Lowell, Massachussets, with its landscape of oxidized red-colored brick buildings. "All the same labels," Jenny whispered to me. At first blush, yes, but then under more careful scrutiny others popped from the shelves. Neither one of use had seen or or ............ and I was delighted to see ... ....a wine Jenny had pointed out to me at the La Remise tasting a few days back, from the barbated,...

Me and Grace
January 21, 2010
Last Friday night I was lucky to be at Brooklyn Guy's house. A few of us were keeping his toddlers from proper sleep and not wanting to leave, when JR showed up with 2000 Grace Family Vineyards wine. Winemaker on that vintage? Heidi Peterson Barrett and only eleven barrels of wine were produced. "It's really good," said JR. And then, smoothed his silvery hair back from his forehead. Was that a dare? Was that a tell? DId he wink? The moment had to be documented. Okay. Let's go. This was one of the first Cult wines and what makes it lovely is that all proceeds go to charity. 'Hey, do they put a little brett in there for Parker?' I asked, kind of surprised to find a touch of barnyard. Mr. P. and I have that in common, we both like it. I thought, was this going to have something appealing for me? If you want to know my notes, you'll have to ask. Yes, it is from one little acre in Napa, but does that make it special? The wine is available for about $160. Newer vintages are up around $350....

Malolactic Fermentation: Banned in Portugal
January 5, 2010
Don't expect a good piece of writing here. Day eight of being sick and the words get plugged up in the brain, yet, I wanted to start up a conversation. Last week I received this email from a reader in Portugal: 'At a guide of red wines, that were tested at a consumer magazine here, they detected that about half had not concluded the malolactic fermentation. That... they hinted... was done intentionally to meet some criteria (prevent too much acidity, or other things), so they admitted... for some reason... it was stopped. Being a consumer magazine, and not a wine magazine, that somehow wasnt seen as a "downer" to the wine." I have to admit I was surprised. The only red wine I know of with blocked malo is commercial nouveau being rushed to market. Word just in from Roberto in LA, that there is a refosco from Terrano del Carso done without ML. And, looking into it a little deeper, blocking malo in part or in full has been done to preserve freshness in hot climes. First some background about the issue of malo, even oversimplified. Historically, left on their own, (meaning without inoculations) in regions with real seasons,...

Contemplation on the Year in Wine
December 28, 2009
A few years ago in reaction to other 'wines of the year' I decided to strike back. I mean if the WS can do it why not me? Of course I couldn't compile 100 wines of the year. Maybe if I jumbled it all up with memorable moments, but 100 wines that I can swear by seem like a lot. Then I read their selections and out of a hundred, there are maybe five I'd drink, but I've gone over that territory before. But still, the wine of the year, the wine of the year? The most user friendly? The most delicious? (impossible) The wine I could go to every night of the year and could make me smile? Or was it, given the fact that once again it seems as if I've absolutely no future as a writer, the wine I can afford. Or is the wine I wish I could afford? Or was it the wine that made me laugh the hardest? Or was it the worst wine. You see the worst wine could as well be the wine of the year, why not if it was the most memorable. The worst wine. Now that's a concept. But...

Alice Gets Saved (from switching)
December 20, 2009
"Boots is not going to be a switcher!" a friend said about her charmer of a daughter. It took a few beats for me to understand that we weren't addressing Boots' sexuality, but proper utensil strategy. Under penalty of spanking, the child would eventually (she was still on the bottle) feed herself with the same hand she pierced the morsel of foie and never, ever 'switch' that fork to her more dominant hand to eat. I blushed, because I was harboring a shameful secret. I was raised by wolves. As a result I was switcher, fork went from left to right and then into mouth. I then realized I spent my life eating at the table as if it were the trough and my regrettable habits had been impediments to my getting ahead in life. God is great (though a little too late) and opportunity came my way last year when I was putting the sagrantino to bed. Conveniently already on the west coast, I was invited to the Meadowood resort ostensibly to get a file applied to those rough edges. This was a test drive for some 'Wine Etiquette" weekends they were going to offer (do not know if...

Wines I Forgot to Rave About
December 18, 2009
A contender for the wine of the year might be in this trio. Not sure. Check back in ten days. These three are from Savio Soares I'm a Beaujolais slut and I LOVE Domaine Chamonard's Morgon, often forgetting about the Fleurie. But the 07 has finally come around as well. V. pretty. Gosh, is that all I wrote? And they call me a wine writer? I guess I was too busy drinking. Ah, Pet Nat! Annie et Philippe Bornard make gorgeous stuff out of Pupillon in the Jura! First note? Shut up and drink. After all, Tant Mieux means so much better. Well, it's a lot better than a lot of rose sparklers out there, that's for sure. I didn't want to think. I just slurped. This ploussard 08 goes gently. This is a Spot Hitter for any pink fizz drinker. With 9% alcohol, there was a slight bit of a honied finish, floral, raspberry and some sort of viscerality dancing on the tongue. YAY! (I wrote as a first note, take that!) Christian Venier's Le Clos des Carteries, 08, has great grip. This gamay/pinot blend from Cheverny in the Loire is like green walnut with a touch of fresh...

The Post Script: French Version
December 18, 2009
Download file I'm stuck. Plunked in the mud. Stopped in the cold. Brain dull. Struggling to decide which wine is the ASF wine of the year. Such decisions. But the real one that has brought me to the knees is a blank page. What do I write for the post script on the French version of The Book? I keep on staring at that page. What do I want to say to the country who still produces the lion's share of wines I want to drink? My publisher requested that I address in a few words, maybe 1000 or so, how the wine world has changed since I started the book in 2005. "What do you want to say to the French?" he asked. "Why it was so important to be published in France?" Good question. But it was. And is. When my French agent told me that her country wasn't interested in wine and not interested in what an American woman thinks about wine, I went around her and targeted the publisher I wanted, Jean Paul Rocher. My statement is due on Monday. What is it that blocks me? Is it the fear of sounding like an imbecile? Maybe....

Ask Alice Project: Q #11. White Wine Tasting
December 13, 2009
The Burgundy requester snuck in another question. Alice- I'll like to stage a wine tasting. Maybe 6 bottles for a holiday get together with dear friends -- whites from Loire (Huet is a very happy discovery) or Jura. Sweet wines are okay, and if you think I should have a few reds I trust your judgment. ++ I have to give you the capsule version here because Jeffrey and I had MANY back and forths we came to the Jura, where he was really heading. We narrowed it to wines from the Jura: Savagnin vs. Chardonnay with a few Vin Jaune in there as well. That said, I gave him my list of favorite producers and the actual selections? He's on his own. Domaine de la Tournelle (Astor?) Anne et Phillipe Bornard (Astor has a few) Overnoy/Houillon (Astor) Ganevat (Chambers) Montbourgeau (Chambers) Puffeney (Chambers) Domaine Jean Bourdy (might check with the Garagiste, fab vin jaune) For me, not in the same category as the above, but still quite Domaine Berthet-Bondet. (look for it on wine-searcher.com)...

Intermission: The Cold War and Natural Wine
December 12, 2009
Bert Celce has an excellent new post on a debate between the French Parker, Michel Bettane and one of the old guard vin naturel folk, Marcel Richaud. I've been struggling to understand the French recording but Celce did a lovely interpolation for us. Give it a read. Bettane has been quite vocal over the past few years about the dangers of natural winemaking. He denies the category and seems to fear it. You can read the L'express article for yourself. This is a deeply complex debate. Recently many wines made naturally and are true wines of terroir have been rejected from AOC status because judged atypical. They might not have the density or the intense artificial aromas of what is considered typical or standard. This has resulted in a slew of wines being bottled with VDP or VDT (or now called IGP) status instead of carrying the name of the town and region they are from. By opting to make wine outside of the 'standard,' these winemakers have spearheaded the debate and even a breakdown of the status quo. In other words, revolution. It's no surprise that the beginnings of natural wine as a movement is connected to soixante-huit....

Ask Alice Project: Q #10. Burgundy for Father-in-law
December 12, 2009
HI Alice, 1. Holiday gift for 80 year-old father-in-law from Montana who has begun to explore Rhone wines and discovered life beyond California. I would like to introduce him to Burgundy without breaking the bank (say under $350) -- a case of wine that could be all the same (drink over time to see things evolve -- but despite his good health, he is 80), or different bottles. I plan to pull from this same list to provide single bottles for staff at work, neighbors and myself. So many bottles so little time. But the price point was too low. I suggested he try some Cru Beaujolais, which is age worthy (more so than basic bourgogne) and can be had for that price. The answer? He loves his father-in-law and it needs to be Burgundy, so he gave me leeway to double the price. And so with about $50 a bottle, I had room to move. I am just in love with Chandon de Briaille---esp. the 2006 vintage. I think this is the cookie for a case to watch its development. I'd opt for the les des Vergelesses, 1er cru. About $50 per bottle. If you wanted to mix it...

Ask Alice Project: Q #7. Help near Geneva!
December 10, 2009
Dear Alice, Is the project still open? If so, here is my request: I have good friends coming from Israel who will be staying with me for the holidays so I need to stock up. The husband is a chef/former restaurant owner and would say he knows a thing or two about wine. I would really like to impress here. I need suggestions for what to serve with meals (I don't mind building the meal around the wine) and maybe a sparkler for celebrating. I live just outside of Geneva, Switzerland not too far from the french border. Budget is 15-20 euros/bottle. Here's the website of where I usually shop, but not limited to this. http://www.vinothequeduleman.com/ Thanks, Rena --- Oy Rena! We have to work with that store. I think you'll be pleased, but I'm concerned that the Israelies will be used to processed clunkers. Am hoping the class of these will trump the chunk. Let me know how it turns out! Stock up on beaujolais! These are all excellent producers and the Roillete and Desvignes are house favorites. MORGON Louis Claude Desvignes (cote de py) 2007 7.94 e FLEURIE Clos de la Roilette 2008 9.20 € FLEURIE Yvon Metras...

Go Ask Alice: Q #6. Shopping in Alberta, Ca.
December 10, 2009
Hi Alice, This is my first time commenting, but definitely not my first time visiting the page after I read and enjoyed your book last Christmas. I'm not sure if I'm making it in the first 15 requests, but I'll give it a shot anyway I'm looking for Italian reds between $20 - $50 to serve my family, who generally appreciate quite full-bodied wines. I'd love to serve some examples of what traditional varieties should really taste like, not ones that have been engineered to compete with Australian shiraz. The catch is... the wines would need to be available in British Columbia or Alberta, Canada. As an alternative to the Italian request, I'd also love to hear some recommendations for nice Champagnes or, really, any other "old world" traditional wine in the same price range that I could get in this part of Canada. I'd like to claim that those would be for gifts, but I'd probably only be willing to give them to people who would let me share in the consumption. :-) Nicole! I was able to find one store that you could work with. Even though the Italian pickings are slim, DeVine wines had some hidden gems....

The Go Ask Alice Project Q:5 (wines for vegans)
December 10, 2009
#5- So my husband and I are vegans and we eat a lot of vegetable stews - with potatoes or butternut squash - can you recommend a red to go with that? Also, I am looking for a red just to sit and drink by the fire - something you want to sip that is very rich. kind of a special bottle, maybe one about $30.00 and one about 50.00 - is that too vague? And do you have a sparkling wine I can give as a gift that is under $15.00? I'm near chambers street wine - I can go there- thanks Susan I thought. She's compromised by lack of cheese, a thought that makes me as sad as a pig lover finding out I don't go near cracklin' but still, I'd say go a little older on the Chateauneufs. **Bosquet des Papes 2007 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Tradition $40.99 **Bosquet des Papes 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Tradition $33.99 Oddly enough the same profile will go with stews--at least tomato based ones. So any Rhone will do, but as you're not using cheese, maybe go with an earthier wine. **Coulaine 2006 Chinon Bonaventure I love it. Definitely needs food, and maybe...

The Go Ask Alice Project; Q #4
December 9, 2009
# 4- Affordable wine in N. Virginia! So, thanks to my friend Raelinn who turned me on to Beatrice et Pascal Lambert Chinon Tradition Graves 2006 $16 Clos du Tue-Boeuf Cheverny Rouge 2008 $18 Domaine De La Bergerie Anjou "Sous La Tonnelle" 2008 $13 (chenin) Govone Barbera D'Alba Superiore 2005: $ 13.99 Leitz Dragonstone Riesling $22...

The Go Ask Alice Project Q:1-3
December 8, 2009
They asked for help. I tried to do my best. Here are the first four requests. #1 This one came in from Susan. I am writing to ask for your advice for my Chanukah dinner. I am making a brisket tzimmes, with carrots, sweet potatoes and a tomato/beef sauce which contains brown sugar and prunes as well as latkes. What wine would be best to serve with this? My 11 person crowd is only 1/2 Jewish so it would not have to be kosher.++++ This one is tough. Latkes are difficult and while I could see a cabernet franc, the greasiness screams out for a sparkler. So here's what I said. Both sparklers about $20. Pinon, Francois NV Vouvray Brut AND if you want to go ultra geeky-- Donati 2008 Malvasia dell'Emilia IGT Frizzante $2o. And for the Tzimmes: Monte Dall' Ora 2006 Valpolicella Classico $16.99 This will be perfect, great acidity and a hint of raisin richness to meld well with the brisket. #2: This one came in from Amy in the Bay Area. Looking for birthday champagne, about $50? And it has to be really pretty. I recommended. NV Raymond Boulard Rose, a gorgeous wine 2002 Drappier Grande...

Falling For Madeira/The Morgan Library Tasting
December 5, 2009
Mannie Berk looks and sounds more professorial than merchant yet is the owner of The Rare Wine Company. The man (might be a saint, not sure yet) has been on a mission to save the soul and the reputation of Madeira, the fortified wine made on the island belonging to Portugal but closer to Africa. Last year, lucky and persistent Mr. Berk scored a number of trophies when the last remaining Leacock sold off the family jewels (methinks, heresy. But what could be done? The chap didn't fancy the wine.) Because Jupiter must have been influencing life for me back in the fall, Berk invited me to experience several of his purchases, along with Rare Wine Company customers, at the Morgan Library in October. Before this moment I had had the odd bottle of Madeira and didn't know my Malmsey from my Boal from my Sercial. While sipped in amounts that were too moderate, the moments were enough that put Port in its place. (Port, by the way, while charming, I never found compelling. But here, this Morgan Moment was cataclysmic.) The shipping method of Madeira was an essential part of its terroir. As the spirited wines were sent...

December '09 Party Wine , Party #2
December 5, 2009
The one everyone has been waiting for, party wines from Chambers Street Wines, my home away from home. Wait my home is the home away from their home the chambers street website 148 Chambers Street New York, NY 10007 Phone: 212-227-1434 Since I'm a terribly pill about wine, I want you to know that if you put an assortment of these out, I'll be more than happy to come over and drink. France Schueller, Gerard 2007 Alsace Riesling Cuvee Particuliere This puppy isn't for everyone, but it will be great with cocktail food. Expect a touch of that old natural VA. $11.99 **Terres Dorees (Jean-Paul Brun) 2008 Beaujolais Chardonnay Your guests will fall in love with you, even the california drinkers. $14.99 * Bregeon, Michel 2007 Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie You know the way I feel about Muscadet.. 11,99 **Pepiere (Marc Ollivier) 2008 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Ditto for the kind of melon! 12.99 **Chaumont, Guy 2005 Bourgogne Pinot Noir I'm afraid to tell you about this. Real burgundy. Lovely. Serve this at dinner parties instead of for the crowd. 18.99 *Guion 2007 Bourgueil Cuvee Domaine The '06 was Alice Feiring's wine of the year....

December '09 Party Wine
December 4, 2009
When I was asked about which wines to buy at Trader Joe's under $20 a bottle, I realized my friends needed help. When I got another call, with more serious consequences, I saw I had no choice. "Will you be around this season?" my friend asked. "Like, where should I be going?" I said. "Great! So you'll be here." "Maybe yes, maybe no. The wind blows secrets," I said. "Well," she said, " If you're around, and if you come over, I want to make sure you can drink something instead of always bringing your own." Her sweetness took me out of talmudic stupor. I decided I was going to put together a shopping list of inexpensive wines, 98% honestly made and even the other 2% honest enough. (mostly under $15) that 1) i can drink and some i 2) love to drink. Those with stars get extra credit! This list is compiled from the current inventory at Astor Wines & Spirits in New York City. Chew on these guys. And invite me over. WHITES Minervois Blanc, La Tour Boisée - 2008 (750) Bottle Price: 8.00 *Alsace Blanc, Kuentz-Bas - 2007 (750) Bottle Price: $12 Cotes de Duras Blanc, Ch....

Giving Thanks: Booty Call Dolcetto: Mood Lifter Vouvray
November 26, 2009
Erev Thanksgiving: Thanksgiving phobia set in shortly after puberty when the parents were in their High Ball days. Wine was the provenance of Friday nights and Saturday afternoons. Turkey belonged to watered down bourbon. The convergence of Fear of Thanksgiving and puberty was circumstantial, yet sometimes in a moment of mental weakness I wonder if a twisted astrological plot was afoot. There were deaths, including the dog Becky, a gorgeous creature who insisted on kicking me out of my bed and claiming my pillow. Then there was a stroke. Everything broke at once. Some palm reader at a cocktail party folded up my mother's hand, returning it to her as if it were a crumpled handkerchief. I have a feeling the seer saw the front page ad my dad took out to advertise his neighborly affair and voila. After the final split and the mother and father tried to split me in two, I checked out. Years later I boycotted the whole holiday, barricading myself in Boston, "I'm working," I would explain. Then there were the fine, fine years in the country listening to the locals shoot at beer cans at sunset, tripping in the fields and coming home to...

Been Doon For the Liquid Memories (Saved by the Wild Bunch and Real Wine)
November 14, 2009
Saturday night. The wind stopped, as did the rain and I pulled up to the bar at i Trulli on 26th Street. My first glass, a very appealing '07 Pelaverga from Castello di Verduno. Birthday dinner, not mine, ensued. Delicious dinner. Risotto-toothsome, perfect, under an icing of black truffles, what can be bad? Panelle, creamy, more like polenta, atop a very epplant and cracking fresh caponata. The other two had whatevers. They're not really about wine geekery so I chose the $56 safe bet, the Barbera from Castello (as the guest of honor was not as charmed as I by the Pela.) The first bottle went down and then my friend called in another. I twitched. But it was too late, the Barbera arrived, uncorked, poured and I found myself going through the chore, the chore of drinking. I drank and then I found myself thinking, why does wine matter? Why was I drinking just because another bottle was brought to the table. And why did THAT wine matter? Though I liked it, it just didn't have the levity or the gravitas to keep me going. I didn't want to drink. I was bored. And so I stopped. I walked...

Chauvet, Neauport and Natural Wines
November 3, 2009
Eleven PM, Ten Bells, wondering where vigneron Thierry Puzelat was, oh, probably out there in Brooklyn getting a black eye or something, while I was drinking K, the gorgeous Marsanne from Dard et Ribo, which Guilhaume Gerard and Cory Cartwright graciously, generously, oiled me with. I didn't catch the vintage but would have to be 2008, though tasted more like the kick ass 2007, decanted. The night was just rolling, I was chatting, and Charnay-based, ever thinking vigneron Eric Texier ran over to me and urgently asked, 'What's the guys name!" Eric last year in France. Eric, give me a clue!' I asked. 'Neauport!' "Jacques!" Eric runs away to continue a conversation elsewhere in the moshpit. I run after Eric. 'You just can't invoke that name and run away," I complained, knocking back another gulp. And that's when he started on the trouble with the modern interpretation of Chauvet and sidekick Jacques Neauport. This is actually ground breaking news and I am hesitant to give it away for free. So, if you're a journalist or a blogger, and you want to use this information, you better give me credit or interview me, or I'll haunt you and your first born...

Why The Jura Matters
October 25, 2009
The first time I had a wine from the Jura that I was aware of? It was about a decade ago at Acquavit. I was there for dinner and saw this wine....Puffeney Vin Jaune. I had no idea what to expect but I had heard buzz about the producer. I was in the mood for white, or what the hell, yellow. I ordered it. The sommelier, without raising an eyebrow, decorked, poured. I knew it wasn't bad but it certainly wasn't what I had in mind and it certainly wasn't a wine to have with dinner. Ronny and I suffered through the difficult, band-aid aromas and flavors, finally making it to the cheese course when we gave ourselves over to the pairing with relief. What the wine director was thinking, to put it on a list of white wines with no warning, was worthy of a wine felony. Then, I admit, it was late to the white grape I have come to love, savignin. I went direct to the reds, poulsard (called ploussard if you happen to come from the town of Pupillin) and trousseau captivated me. If you're a card carrier in the pineau d'aunis, gamay-and -proud- of -it...

Back To Jura: Bindernagel
October 20, 2009
Born in Bavaria, trained as an architecture in Toulouse, Ludwig Binderangel got the wine bug, attended the viticole in Beaune. Wanted land in Burgundy. Was attacked by sticker shock. Could afford the Jura, a wine region that looks like bone fragments, less than an hour away from Dijon. Found 1.5 hectares, a mere thimble full near Arlay.one town over from Etoile. He now commutes to Paris for the architecture that supports his Bindernagle Boondoggle, and placements of his wines in bar a vin and stores such as Vin Insolite near Oberkampf, andthere you go. He had never even tasted Jura beforehand. Get that? He had no idea how to differentiate a Trousseau from a Teapot. A Savignin from a Sauvignon. And instead of deciding he was going to make the wine he wanted to make, he went out to make the wine the land wanted to make. Can you imagine tasting an oxidative wine for the first time after working with burgundy chardonnay and saying, what the hell, let's make that? How can you not love this guy? Bindernagel in his vines. At one point he is going to go biodynamic, as he really believes in what he tastes from...

My Jura Disclaimer
October 12, 2009
I accepted a press trip to a region I was nosebleeding to visit. This is a confession worthy of the new 12-step meeting, AWA: Addicted to Writing Anonymous. With no magazines paying expenses, with no trust fund in my past or future, or juicy divorce settlement, there was also no room to be holier than thou so I said, yes, please and thank you. Here's the pickle. Many of the publications I write for forbid sponsored trips. I find them uncomfortable but paradoxically, as a freelancer, especially in these times, I find them useful... for research. For some background. But get a story out of it that is suitable for one of my publications...for me that is like draining a lake with a slotted spoon. No, a return trip is always necessary. Anyway, back to the matter at hand. The trip was five days and in order to squeeze everything I could out of the opportunity, I spent two, very happy weeks over in France and Switzerland. I loved being there and did not want to come back. I bounced around a lot and did not rent a car. Instead, I hopped around on an easy Rail Europe pass...

Pacalet, Life and First Look at his '08s....
October 6, 2009
After purchasing some train tickets at the Beaune Gare around the corner, I walked the short blocks to see Philippe Pacalet. He stood, in all of his curliness on the receiving bay, talking on his cell, looking very contented. I waved wildly to him, big grin on my face. "Life sends you on paths you don't and can't expect," he says to me, folding up his phone. I can't remember if he always greets me with a piece of life this way. I am not adverse. But I wasn't really into the early morning spiral down into my own nautilus. And so while we caught up, I found myself wondering if my life been too controlled? I can't remember when a life changing choice has been presented to me. Or have I had those life changing moments and just not seen there was a door in the room. Perhaps the door was a tree and I didn't see the knob, mistaking it for a knot? Have I been too myopic, or has that kind of adventure never dropped deus ex machina from the sky? But enough. I am now in the Jura, where the pendant-like pears are dripping in erotica...

Mr. O'vernoy de Pupillon, Jura
October 4, 2009
With his tanned legs, (my legs should look so good) his worn hiking boots M. Pierre Overnoy, ushered us into his long table, the meal for workers just having been cleaned up. Even though he said the Overnoys came from Ireland as O'vernoy, he seems to me to look more derivative of my distant cousin I.B. Singer. Overnoy refers to himself as a bachelor. ("The man governs, but the woman commands," he said laughing. Still scratching my head on that one.) No matter what he says it is with enthusiasm and a twinkle. Here is an innocence not lost. He was kind enough to talk slow enough to make understanding him rather easy, even for my rustique French. When I asked him about M. Chauvet his eyes lit up and proceeded to talk about wine and sulfur. Unfortunately JUST as he was getting to the juicy bits, my FLIP froze. We tasted two wines. 2007 Chardonnay: The aromas are leapingly vibrant. Taste chalky. Long finish and sparks the tongue with gentle caramel and salt water. 2000 Savagnin: Salty, water and brine. A turkey being brined. Apple cider threads. Life and alive. Delicate on the finish, as if its brakes had...

France So Far
October 2, 2009
On plane, the three vials of CRB pineau d'aunis went down with the ambien. Arrival in Beaune, Russell fetched me at the train, and spirited me off to Bouilland, seven km above Savigny. The Queen Before the guests arrived, Becky and I did some dueling computering, I, sipping at something like a Gagnard C-M. Dinner was had with some honeymooners, cucumber soup and some vegetable thing in my honor while they snaffed down the lamb. 1989 Lafarge. For that moment, joyful. yum After honeymooners taxied back down to Beaune, I knocked back 10mg of Ambien and sent screwy texts to too many people. Got one email from a friend, "I will assume your phone is broken?" Another suggested I was drunk. Neither was true. The result, however, was being shamed off of the stuff, unless absolutely necessary Happy I did not email any editors or engage in Twittering. My iPhone did not sing me out of slumber. Russell wakes me up. He tended to my toast, coffee and we race to the Jura. The landscape. I am slightly disappointed. God knows what I had hoped for/ A jig, perhaps? Did I expect the soil to stand up and dance The...

Airplane Wine
September 28, 2009
Taking off an hour after the shofar. just packed up my mini-wine on board allotment. I just love these little vials, i get about 3oz of wine, just enough to wet the whistle with 2006 Clos Roche Blanche pineau d'aunis, chase it with a johnny walker black, take a sleep enhancer and wake up in CDG. I had wanted to follow up with California part two, but alas, we're in for a French/Swiss interlude....

California Reconsidered: Part One
September 27, 2009
In August I headed to California to work on a story about Hank Beckmeyer I also visited some of my friend, Paige Poulos's clients. Which, yes, were out of my usual scope of visits but as she said, babe, play against type, "You never know what you'll learn," she said. She was right. One never knows and so I went. I talked. I kept an open mind. I had a mission. Could I find out something about the thing that so confuses me about the soul of California's wine? I had to find out. Meeting Sergio Traverso Straight off the plane I went to the most unusual place, Livermore, with its breezes, and stripes of green illustrating the parched formidable hills. I was eager to met with Sergio Traverso, the man who started Murrieta's well with California royal family, The Wentes, the folk responsible for the clone most associated with Cali-Chardonnay has brought the dapper and very elegant and thoughtful winemaker back to consult. I remember being impressed by Murrieta's Meritage back in 1990. It's changed since. But I'm looking forward to seeing what kind of magic Sergio brings with him. Sergio, who splits his time between his home country...

Martin Scott Tasting: More Becky Wasserman Burgundy
September 24, 2009
More Burgundy! The Martin Scott tasting was packed. I was hanging with Pascaline, grabbing spit buckets when we could, often resorting to the trash cans, but here's a consensus between the two of us. These below got us smiling. Who said the 2007 Burgundies are underperformers? Not to me, so far. So far I'm seeing, drinkable, forward, and precocious. Full of charm. And what really got me going on them is that quite a few are marked by the most intoxicating mix of jasmine and rose---think Chanel #5, pressed into a white linen handkerchief. Domaine Michel Lafarge 2007 Aligote Raisins Dores I am just crazy about the Lafarge wines these days and this Aligote is not the fierce, edgy monster but more gentle and sunny and chamomile, in stilletos. 2007 Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Chateau des Ducs I never had this Monopole but it rated a big Yum. With a firm, density, dusted with baby powder and rose. Domaine du Comte Armand 2007 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux More baby powder and Chanel #5! Lovely. Domaine Denis Bachelet 2007 Bourgogne Rouge This might land at $35 retail but it's a mouthful of complexity, green walnut (previously known to...

Mark Angeli, the bees go missing
September 22, 2009
What is it about those magical biodynamic properties? I don't really consider myself a believer but there is no doubt that those who feel this stuff deeply, like Mark Angeli, have vineyards that exude the spiritual. Mark Angeli's Ferme de la Sansonniere is such a place. I had the feeling I could curl up in the well plowed earth and stay there forever. Flowers scents spice the air, even in February. As we passed his beehives he told us of the decline in the population over the winter. "It's not because of a virus," he explained, "it's because of the cell towers. There's a new cell tower here, and ever since, our bee population has been cut in half." "The bees are lost," Mark Angeli said. This is not the first time I would hear this during my visit last February. Obviously I was reluctant to take out my cell phone during the visit. And I was likewise terribly self-conscious pulling out the Flip. His vineyards, many very densely planted, at over 4,000 vines per hectare, are bisected by the road. Up the hill, the wine is fierce, not as fierce as the south but pretty zippy, " I...

Kosher Dilemma
September 20, 2009
On the way to visit Ethel for the holiday, she was in a panic. She didn't have any of her special select, Matuk Rouge, semi -sweet (natural) grape juice with 8% alcohol. So we stopped in to her favorite wine shop on Central Avenue in Cedarhurst, Chateau de Vin (that's the way they actually spell it). The man who bought the place a few years ago must have bought the old stock wine as well as there were several older vintages of Roberto Cohen imports that at first were tempting, such as the 2002 Aloxe. But at a $72 price tag, and dubious storage, I passed. But I am so curious to see what passes as a kosher burgundy. But there was also a 2002 series of Beaujolias VIllage. I slipped the neck of the Fleurie (Saveurs l'ete) through my finger. Only at the register realize the original price was $30, but mine? For the New Year? $19.99. What a sin. What a rip off. Someone should set me up in business to bring real kosher wine to the world. Decorked it in threer ragged steps. Took a sip before Ethel lit the candles. It was cooked. Fragile. Over-cropped fruit...

Why I love Paris
September 15, 2009
Sent to me by wonderful blogger Sharon Bowman sent to her by a friend, passing by the recylcables. Could have been Sharon's or mine....

Champagne!
September 13, 2009
For this Wall Street Journal Magazine champagne story (I spent, let's see, two months closing?), I tasted some champagnes around the kitchen table--with the intend of finding champers that were worth their price tag. All tasted blind, and then we drank the wines exposed, using it to wash down some excellent succotash, and eggplant gloop and a variety of cheeses that were pretty fabulous. (Cato Corners, an especially a firm and complex buffalo tallegio scored at DiPalo on Mott Street. Tasters we had. Included were Honey Sugar, my old friend who swore off Clicquot when I took her to their vineyards. Lee Campbell! Gorgeous Lee who jumped the sommelier ship to sell wine for Joe. The divine Pam Govinda The champagne obsessed Brooklyn Guy and the Besotted Peter Liem I tried to go out of my usual range for the tastings. I had neglected Terry Thiese's portfolio, for example, and I'd never tasted Drappier seriously. But the major reason was to taste Selosse! I hadn't drunk the stuff since the night, five years ago I caroused til 3am drinking never enough of it in Tain Hermitage. A long time ago. And even then it wasn't Substance. If you are...

Natural Wine: Some History
August 24, 2009
I know this is going to be shocking but Natural Wine is not something I defined. Nor did Joe Dressner, nor did Jenny & Francois. My posted definition (two topics down) was out of frustration because so much misinformation by well meaning but perhaps new enthusiasts was being spread like fluffanutter over the blogosphere. The parameters needed to be stated, clearly. I did it. The movement started in the Beaujolais town of Morgon (my favorite spot for Beaujo) in the late 70's by Jules Chauvet and Jacques Neoport with Marcel Lapierre. Fed up with chemical farming and additive winemaking these men (and followed by the so called Gang of Five) sought to make a wine from healthy soil, without yeast, bacteria, chaptalization, sterile filtration or sulfur. The Chauvet methode to me is controversial, but that's another topic for another time. Back then enzymes, bacteria, blah blah blahs and all of the other tools used today were uncommon. Just like the rabbinate had to decide whether electricity was allowed on the shabbos, as the rules of Judaism were defined before electricity existed, people today have to decide whether some technique is in the spirit of Natural wine, just as they have...

Natural Wines: The Definition.
August 19, 2009
The world is happy to wave the flag for natural wines lately. Stories about the stuff lurk everywhere. Festival, tasting, weeks and celebrations are like morels in the spring, but there is also a lot of misinformation. Wines being called natural that are not. This is a little bit like serving real pig in a blankets at a kosher bar mitzvah. Some of these mistakes are honest, some out of ignorance, some are from a pure marketing effort. The last of course, make my blood hotter than normal. But in order to curb the natural creep of dumbing down natural, here are some simple guidelines for the criteria. Grapes, maybe a splish of SO2. Nothing gets added to the wine and nothing gets extracted. Short and Sweet. To The Point. Simple. Prevent NatWashing and get it right. 1) Assume minimal chemical to no chemical farming. So if you're using the Monsanto poison Round Up? Sorry. 2) Wine with grapes and nothing else added. And that means yeast. Okay? Got that. If you add Yeast to spark fermentation OR Yeast Food to keep it going? Sorry. 3) No forceful machinery to alter the taste, texture or alcohol level of the wine....

Bebame; a Steve Edmunds/Don Heistuman Production
August 15, 2009
Yesterday over lunch at Cafe Rouge with Steve Edmunds (Edmunds St. John) yesterday, (we shared butter beans fritto. I had watermelon and jicama salad with a weird ass dressing, and he loved his tuna, thanks for asking.) Because I twisted his arm, I got to taste the new vintage of his vermentino blend, Heart of Gold. 2008 is lower in alcohol, fresh and, is now amongst my favorite white of California. David Bowler, bring it in to New York City, please! Also tasted his new release (now in bottle shock--so look for tasting notes in a few months) from a Mendocino biodynamic vineyard. And Back story: I met Don Heistuman in the Loire oh, I don't know, nine years ago? There we were, toes deep in snow and grooving to cabernet franc and meanwhile he was cooking up an idea. Shocking. The fantasy was delicious, approachable wine from the United States, made from a distinctly Loire Valley Blend, cabernet franc and gamay! A classic combo. But could it be done here? In America? In California no less? Don, who until recently was associated with Portland, Oregon's Domaine Selections had a vintner in mind. Someone who was associated with Rhone blends...

How To Present a Barolo Seminar
July 25, 2009
I think I've got it. Finally. Too bad I didn't figure it out before I had to deliver at the Summit Wine & Food Festival in the morning July 25th instead of the afternoon. The next time, if I follow my notes below, I'll do it better. One hopes. #1-Present the bottle that changed my life. Project the passion I have for it. Tell the story of how I came to experience this wine, tell the story of my father's mistress, and her ex-husband. (If you open up my book to page 1, you'll read of the episode). #2- Deliver the basics. No matter at what level the audience rings up at, a primer of a reminder isn't such a bad course to take.Even if nothing else gets accomplished they'll leave knowing something about Barolo. There will be take aways. One or two tangibles they'll remember. 1) State the obvious that the wine is 100% Nebbiolo grown in the Piemontese region surrounding the town of Alba. terroir. For 101 level, just say amongst the twelve communes, there are five that are the most famous: Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba, La Morra, Monforte d'Alba. 2) Shock them by letting them...

Biodynamics on Fox TV?
July 18, 2009
Just kidding. But who knows? Sky news gives the Lunar calendar a whole 5:41 minutes. Shocking....

Oh, The Things They Think Of!
July 16, 2009
I came across this crazy champers for billionaires and thought, hey! What a great 'rich baiting bubbles' addition. It would be perfect for a story I was researching. That is, if it were true. I made inquiries. Who produced the wine inside this Le Billionaire Champagne,---of which only five of the bottles (Salamanzar) of the jewel encrusted bottles, entering the market, priced at $2.75 million? No answer I mean, is there champagne inside instead of processo or seltzer? No answer. However I did get this: 'The production of the billionaire version is very complex. It is manufactured completely manually. Every diamond or rather crystal is manually stitched on the designer dress. It takes all in all 5 days (!) until one bottle is completely manufactured! This is the reason for the high price.' Is there a cheaper bottle? Yes, there is. Turns out if you want to buy a 750 ml bottle, if you found it (not on winesearcher) you will find a bargain at less than the cost for Krug's Clos Ambonnay. Only $2,750.00! Who is Leon Verres? As below, directly from their email. ++Leon Verres has been supporting needy children for years. However, he does that without shouting...

The Davero Sagrantino is DELICIOUS
July 14, 2009
Last night we popped the cork on a barrel sample of the Sagrantino I helped to make (foot stomped, wine copped) up on my rooftop. Here is Pascaline, sommelier of Rouge Tomate's reaction For the back story , head to The New York Times...