Recent Posts in Trade Tasting Reports
Millesime Bio Notes
February 17, 2010
The tech sheet included full discloser of oak staves and micro ox. I can't say I got to taste what Egypt terroir is really like. Rather funny was in a google search I came across notes for the perfume Jardin du Nil 'Jardin du Nil opens with aldehydic floral notes and an odd “stinky” accord that's been described as 'dirty socks,' or 'locker room.' This could have worked for the wine as well! I can't say I really enjoyed this but it wasn't that bad either. I do think that a cement elevage might be a smarter choice. For more on this wine, it seems as if Christian Callec did the leg work for me. Other standouts: I Clivi made gorgeous Fruilano wines. About the amphora craze Mario said, "Too much trouble keeping the green gunk out of them." He also mentioned that with the amphora there's too much focus on the cellar. Of particular joy were the 1999 Galea, honey and oxidation. In all no dogs. Each wine bringing new revelation. Try reading what Strappo has to say. Erbaluna! I tasted these years ago and thought, in time these winemakers will come around. And did they. The barolos...
Remise Flashback
February 16, 2010
Before the organic wine tasting in Montpelier, I was headed to La Remise, a tasting which had a reputation as one of those wild and wooly bad boy tastings with mostly were unhealthy advertisements for unsulfured wine. If that had once been true, the tasting has matured. But don't worry, it hasn't matured that much. When La Gramiere Amy and I arrived, people were milking sea rocks--otherwise known as slurping back those mammoth Utah Beach oysters. We scrounged like rodents and came across the worlds most delicious short and dense cookies. Then off to work. Herve Souhaut's 2009. 'nuf said. Truly gorgeous vintage for him. I don't need tastings notes. It doesn't matter. But all around, the wines have a lushness worthy of lushes and those who are amongst the 'anti-flavor elite.' Nothing artificial in these flavors for sure. Podere Le Boncie Chianti with freshness Azienda Panevino Dressner scarfed this one up ( I think more accurately Kevin McKenna). My first sip was that this was Anthony Wilson wine. And the winemaker gets extra cute score as well. Conversation of the day: Had with Andrea Calek, who showed up with a new hacked at haircut and a twinkle in his...
Falling For Madeira/The Morgan Library Tasting
December 5, 2009
Mannie Berk looks and sounds more professorial than merchant yet is the owner of The Rare Wine Company. The man (might be a saint, not sure yet) has been on a mission to save the soul and the reputation of Madeira, the fortified wine made on the island belonging to Portugal but closer to Africa. Last year, lucky and persistent Mr. Berk scored a number of trophies when the last remaining Leacock sold off the family jewels (methinks, heresy. But what could be done? The chap didn't fancy the wine.) Because Jupiter must have been influencing life for me back in the fall, Berk invited me to experience several of his purchases, along with Rare Wine Company customers, at the Morgan Library in October. Before this moment I had had the odd bottle of Madeira and didn't know my Malmsey from my Boal from my Sercial. While sipped in amounts that were too moderate, the moments were enough that put Port in its place. (Port, by the way, while charming, I never found compelling. But here, this Morgan Moment was cataclysmic.) The shipping method of Madeira was an essential part of its terroir. As the spirited wines were sent...
PAS MAL- BECKY WASSERMAN SELECTION, lost notes
September 18, 2009
I lost my notes from the Pas Mal, Becky Wasserman tasting! Something I consider a disaster. But I suppose the most memorable linger. Amongst these? The gorgeous wines of Sylvain Pataille. I'd snarf them up---from the Passetoutgain to the Bourgone, to the Clos du Roy or Ancestrale. Shit, Sylvain, who in his thirties still looks like college freshman, is just pumping all of his Marsannay's filled with expression and emotion. This is the guy who planted a secret plot up in a little clos from grape seeds. The vigneron is a loveable nut of the best kind. Puts domestic pinot to shame on taste and price. I also remember being nicely surprised by the Digioia Royer. No notes. Sorry. But ridiculously well priced. 2005 1er Cru Chambolle for --well, let's just say it's well priced for restaurants. Oh! And the Fougeray de Beauclair, lest I forget! Both the 2001 Fixin (2001? yes! Age!) and the 2006 Vosne Les Damodes, and pretty femmy Bonnes Mares. I would check these girls and boys out again....
Savio Soares Tasting
May 22, 2009
How is it possible that Savio Soares and I had never met? Everyone in the wine world in NYC was buzzing about this portfolio. But, did I know who he was? No. All was fixed at a dinner, instigated by The Brooklyn Guy Upon entry to il Buco, I spied a familiar looking, bespectacled man sitting with Neil. "You're Savio?" I asked. "You live here?" he exclaimed. "I thought you were married to a French winemaker." Over the past few years we saw each other over in France, in a crush of tasters at tastings and made plenty of assumptions, all untrue. I am not married to a French winemaker (though open to the possibility). He on the other hand is Brazilian born and bounces between New York City and his wife and son in Germany, and of course European tastings and is one of the newish importers not afraid of picking up vin naturel. But plenty of his wines are true. We had some terrific wines that night and then last week, he staged a tasting at Wined Up, one of the oddest names ever for a wine bar. (on Broadway in the Flatiron district of NYC) One smart...
Louis/Dressner Report
May 21, 2009
I know any second I'll get some crap asking me, where's that report? After all, didn't Joe bribe me with a bottle and a twenty dollar bill....and a metro card? (I sell myself cheap) Panevino IGT Isola dei Nuraghi Rhosso Ogu & the Piccade 2007 Loved both of these. Not sure if they're both cannonau, but it seemed so. Piccade--the latter was filled with clove tobacco, jerusalem artichoke. gorgeous texture. Wow. Domaine de Souch Jurancon Sec Tangy, deep and very apple. Chamber's Street Wines co-founder, David (L.) said, "I guess I'll have to taste it again." he wasn't thrilled. It's probably the price. David didn't want a white Jurancon he'd have to sell for $30. Damien Coquelet 2007 Chiroubles Cheers for this newcomer. Dard & Ribo 2007 They're all knock outs. Even the nay sayers will love them. Roanga (I'm not going to tell you my favorites, find out for yourself) Eric Texier Hey! He brought a sample of his Fukuoka inspired farming As far as from the extensive line-up of his northern and southern Rhones? What's not to love? But his floral, elegant Condrieu with is elevage in acacia, was attention getting. Alessandra Bera the o7 Arcese, the blend...
Jenny & Francois
May 17, 2009
Briefly noted picks. Domaine Derain (St. Aubin, Burgundy) Love their PetNat (sparkling Aligote) and the 2006 Le Bon as well as the '06 Mercurey which was tar and marshmallow. Didier Monchovet Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire (tart, berry gamay) and a kick-ass cremant. Also do look out for their 2003 Hautes Cotes de Beaune.The year was hot, mostly made flabby wines. This one works Domaine Binner Everything from this Alsatian domaine is lovely. (Don't forget their Pinot) 2005 Saveurs Printanieres, one of those Alsatian blends, is your spring/summer wine. Cousin Leduc Pur Breton Olivier in the Anjou is someone to buy in every year. The 2006 has plenty of carnation, lots of life and texture the VV has a berry nose and is as deep as a quarry. Comptoirs de Magdala Amourvedre From young vines in Bandol. This 2007 will work when you are in a mood for lots of silt and texture and need to shake your fist (at whomever) for emphasis. Domaine Deux Anes Magali (she is in the winery, her husband Dominqueis in the vines) can do no wrong. Just buy whatever you find. Chemin de Bassac Pinot The 2007 is your new party wine. Not too much structure,...
Notes from the March '09 Michael Skurnik Tasting
May 17, 2009
I'm so behind, I can't catch up. So to be direct, I've been out tasting. Here's what I've liked and what I didn't like. I zoomed in an out in an hour, so was just looking for ....something. I believe it's just as useful to tell you what I don't like, so both are included. That morning there was a rumor that Cali Pino was getting better. Frankly, I think they should pull out the vines and start all over, but that is obviously an unpopular point of view. Pass the Puzelat please? Peay Vineyards:Sonoma Coast Estate, 2007 Extremely fruit forward. There was something grounding it in reality but, for those who like a sweet thing. Somoma Coast Pomarium Estate 2007 Exuberant but thankfully not cloying and somewhat unfocused, breathy finish, Failla (made by Ehren Jordan) From my notes, not bad. Marked by an orange juice quality. Occidental RIdge Vineyard 2006 has some expression. My notes were lacking, but basically I said if you like California Pinot and also my kind of wines, this will work. HIrsch Vineyard I've yet to have the wine I really liked from this vineyard, or one at least I could drink. There is...
Night In Burgundy Heaven: Part One & Two
March 9, 2009
I'm still recovering from this weekend's wine extravaganza founded by Daniel Johness for those besotted with Burgundy. While others in town for the event started drinking on Thursday night with the various private parties, La Paulee PART ONE: "Where are you?" "Dripping from the tub?" "Why aren't you here?" She was talking about the Becky & Peter Wasserman burgundy seminar at the City Winery Got there with fifteen minutes to spare. Lots of Becky love in the room. The good news is that if you haven't gone to the Bouilland Symposium pres de chez Becky, there's still room. If you've got the dough, it's MORE than well worth it. In fact, it's life changing. Back at the seminar: a bunch of 2006's were poured. Lafarge Volnay VV was brilliant. Have to admit so was the Freddie Mugnier Chambolle. It must have been a flower day, pretty stuff. So was Becky. PART TWO: It was balmy, and I biked over to the afternoon tasting on 18th street. Lots of big names were pouring and I felt it was my responsibility to taste some, like Coche Drury. They fail to charm me. Okay, the Meursault, Les Caillerets was very tasty. But they...
Dressner's Tasting in Valaire
February 24, 2009
Thierry Puzelat picked me up in Blois and we traveled the 25 minutes to Valaire and L'erbe Rouge, his girlfriend's restaurant. There, Joe was meeting his group of travelers. Most of the French producers were to be there Friday, the Italians on Saturday. Joe was there with a snoodly cap on his head, looking fatigued but happy. Let's have a moment here about the place's bread. It shames the seigle I shelp home from Poilaine. And the tasting first followed by lunch and drinking. What can be bad? Now, I write about the Louis/Dressner portfolio enough and plenty. And I should give a meticulous account of the tasting and I will in the Tasting Note section of this blog--promise-- but I do want to mention a few highlights: Clos de La Roilette's 2008 did not disappoint. Watch out though for limited availability on the Cuvee Tardive. Like so many winemakers in France, the yields in this vintage were extremely low. The big debut was George Descombe's step-son, D. Coquelet's who was pouring right next to George. tangy raspberry Chiroubles. A refreshing beaujo for sure. And for those who noted a great deal of sheepy brett on previous Descombs vintages, in...
Wine and Side Burn Trends at Angers
February 18, 2009
I have been traveling to the Loire wine fair in Angers since 2000.I had pretty much dismissed the food scene as sad. Most of the restos were stacked with commercial bottles. One could go hungry and thirsty. In the past year, salvation has reached the city limits. Amongst the exciting new comers is chef Remi Fournie. Remi migrated from Paul Bocuse's kitchen to open up a teensie resto, Chez Remi, on Boulevard Foch. But his gem of a wine bar in the twists and turns of the city that is the must do. Le Cercle Rouge, on the Saturday night before the big tasting (and every night until the end of the wine fair was over) was packed with wine luminaries many of whom were in my book such as Theirry Puzelat and Jean Pierre Robinot--the winemaker who tortured the Skinny Food Writer on the dance floor. 2.7 euros for a glass of wine? (Lemasson Poivre et Sel, no less?) Without anything in there but grapes? How retro! Good, solid, snacky food and a boisterous, we're having a party atmosphere where I could lose myself in talk and wine and shmooze and laugh and bat my eyelashes and not...
The Fall 2008 Louis/Dressner Tasting Report
November 4, 2008
My tasting report this year is brief due to the fact that I was eating too much (Joe ALWAYS has the best food) and talking too much as there was a huge national contingent of folk I enjoy seeing and don't see enough. But here you go--here is the listing of LOVE Laurent Barth 2006's Love the pinot noir and the pinot gris. But right now I'm an an Alsatian Pinot Gris roll. Antoine Arena The Corsican magician 2007 Carco This is a barrel sample, who knows what will happen but glug glug, I say. Like apricot water--not watery--it just has that kind of purity. Bianco Gentile VdT 2006 Almond, nut and a delightful bitterness in the finish. Carco Rouge 2006: Floral and tannic with refreshing acidity. FINALLY! After tasting the OLIVIER RIVERE Rioja barrel samples for two years in France I got to taste it in bottle right on Lafayette Street. Riviere Rioja Tinto Rayos Uva 2007. 12.5% alcohol (take THAT global warming, my ass) . A mix of tempranillo and garanacha, it is berry, bramble, blueberry, with a bit of compelling dirt and twig and grit. Great little wine. Tinto Rochere 2006 Old vine garnacha mostly and the...