Recent Posts in Misc.

1st Stop Cayuse
March 12, 2010
Christophe Baron, aka the Bionic Frog, settled in Walla Walla when he fell in love with a river bed. He thought Chateauneuf. Well, a Chateauneuf with much darker stones. But you get the idea. Christophe said he was attracted to the vine freedom of America, but I'm not sure what exactly why he decided to go whole hog with biodynamics. It seems to suit him and the wines quite well. The whole operation is like an oiled glove and it smacks of Virgo with Leo rising. When I was there in 2004, the place was a work in progress. Now? He's got 55 acres and a real winery with Noblot eggs and other more conventional but gorgeous cement fermenters. Outside in the beginning of March the horse was plowing, the workers were toiling away rather happily. Each vine is tied with straw. The elements are obsessive. In biodynamic spirit, Christophe added pigs, bunnies, cows, chickens and sheep as well as cherry trees. He's even preparing this kind of land next, in the 'canyon.' There is no doubt that this is the work of a maniac, and I say this in only the most complimentary way, in fact he's a little...

Having Trouble Posting Comments?
March 9, 2010
You are not alone in this communication breakdown. Even I have trouble posting comments and replies. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. But later or sooner, there will be a new improved blog. Watch this space for further details. I am told commenting is going to be in our future. Miss you all....

And the final day...
March 9, 2010
I was ultimately in the area to be part of a round table on wine homogenization. On the panel was a man often called the Michel Rolland of Spain. When our moderator, an adorable Cristina Alcala asked us, Ignacio as well as Cesar Cubillas, a rather simpatico wine importer, what are the components of great wine, Ignacio said, "Land is the least important." Then he went on to tell us about a viognier he made far, far, away on soils and in a climate that even made Ignacio wonder if planting the grapes and making the wine would disturb the natural order of the universe. A woman in the front row glared at me. She probably heard what I was thinking and hated me. It was her favorite wine. That night, Cristina, Rosa and Marta, all friends from Madrid went out to dinner. Remember this address, it was one of the best meals I've had in ages. Talent. Big talent. Casa Marcelo Rue Hortas 1 Santiago de Copostela casamarcelo.net amuse was frozen rhubarb, looking like a slab of tuna on crushed ice, all bitter, sweet, limey, acidic. A lovely alvarinho. Loved it. From Marcial Dorado,, previously a Galcian mussel fisherman...

Galicia. Ribeira Sacra(Part 5). Hijacked
March 9, 2010
On Monday morning I, with the help of a local sommelier, headed out to see what I could see in Ribeira Sacra, about two hours from Santiago. Stunning. Steep. The hills have ghost vineyards underneath the brush. At one point before World War 11. the mountains were covered with terraces and now you can just feel the erosion. It's wet. The soil sags. And when you're talking about a potential 80 degree tilt to the land, disaster is around the corner. Even I began to think, perhaps it's time to retire this land. Of course you can't grown anything else on it. Vines can survive. It is not for wheat, not tomatoes nor potatoes. It is vineland. But I have to say I really was wondering if after centuries, as the Ribeira can claim wine back to Roman times, perhaps it's time to give the land and the farmer a break. I was happy to see this magical place, with rose quartz proudly strutting its prettiness in the vineyard. But ladies and gentlemen, I was hijacked. On the way up I asked my host, "Where are were going?" I admit, I asked because I was not trusting. He responded, "Where...

Galicia; Rias Baixas (Part 4)
March 6, 2010
What's left of a home winemaker's 200 year old caino vine. He was wearing Sunday shoes and was wary of the muddy ground. As he tried to stay Sunday Clean he told us, "Albarino was never made in oak, it was always made in chestnut," he told us. The man's wine was terribly underripe, nice old vines, but still making wine for quantity not quality. It put the region's vinous history in context. Maybe as he suggested, they needed octopus. Honorio and Todd then ferried me to Forja del Salnes. The wines there are made by Raul Perez, the most famous winemaker in the area and farmed by Rodrigo Mendez, otherwise known as Rodri. Importer and all round fabulous man, Jose Pastor met me there, having flown up from Valencia earlier that morning. I was glad to see his cheery face. The best part of this visit was when Rodri took us to see a very special vineyard he started to rent. We piled into three cars, (these winemakers seem to travel in packs) and twenty minutes later we were at La Signora's who had always made wine purely for home use. Rodri seems to be the Tegan Passalacqua...

A Commercial Break: Whole Foods and Australia
March 4, 2010
I received a press release yesterday from Whole Foods about a promotion they're doing with Australia. + 'In just the past few years, Australia has earned a solid reputation for producing some of the finest varietals in the world. Whole Foods Market will be taking shoppers on a wine 'walkabout' starting today and running through May 5th, highlighting the value and quality of Australian wines with selections from Australia's diverse wine-growing regions. From an organically grown Chardonnay and a spritzy, bright, aromatic Verdelho-Viognier blend to a dark chocolate cherry Pinot Noir and the continent's best Cabernet Sauvignon, we will have styles for everyone.' + Like many others in the wine world, I've been puzzled by Whole Food's lack of commitment to the natural wine world, as if what goes into wine is not as important as what goes into food. Okay, it's not. Food is nourishment of another kind, but if WF is going to get into the wine biz, shouldn't they have some principles? So, I wrote a letter. It was strong, hard-nosed, I didn't sugar coat. Perhaps I should have but the gist was basically==shouldn't Whole Foods step up to the plate? I'll share the response I received....

Galicia; Rias Baixas (Part 3)
March 3, 2010
Pergola, is the traditional way of farming the albarino vines and when walking under old vines, with thick barks and long tentacles, I can't get the image out of my mind that I'm walking under the legs of tarantulas. Todd in the vines his friend Honorio farms for Veiga Serantes. I disappointed Honorio, he had beautiful hairy crabs for lunch, we moved on to the next step, Lagar de Pintos Located in Salnes, the family has been producing since 1887. Part of the Domaine is set up like a museum to show what it was like then, barrels of wine fermenting in the kitchen, that sort of thing. But Marta, an oatmeal colored girl,thin with large orbular eyes, blue and serious took us to taste the wines. She does quite a bit of cash cow wines, didn't taste them, so I can't comment, and then the Lagar de Pintos. Marta had been making wine, like Todd, since 2003. She doesn't yeast but she does feed the buggers, if the chemistry indicates the organisms needs a boost. She also cools the grapes down quite a bit to 3 degree c. for 36 hours, and then destems and presses. She fiddles with...

Galicia (Part 2)
February 28, 2010
Because I liked Todd's wine so much and because it seemed as if he was a lone ranger kind of guy, I was interested to know what his Galicia looked like. I knew the commercial face, a lot of wine I couldn't drink. Gallo is rules there with its brands like Martin Codax and Kendall-Jackson is buiding a big estate --plantations are underway. I had been warned by the marketing arm that organic is very difficult in Galicia,so wet, I was told. See the celery green part of the map north of Pontevedra? That's the region, the Val do Salnes. First to his vineyards. Todd wants very much to focus on single vineyard albarinos. This was in his organic one--the kind of organic they say is so hard to do ;) in back of a church. The spongy, healthy soil---with diviets from the massive amounts of rain--was filled with thyme and mint and chunks of remarkable red/pink granite. I never saw this kind of granite in soil, gorgeous stuff and they were all around. To see them in the sun might have been exquisite, like TinkerBells in the vineyard. But it was as green as Ireland and as soggy. Inside...

From Millesime Bio to Galicia! (Part 1)
February 27, 2010
When I was in MB, otherwise known as Millesime Bio, Frederik Kolderup, the energetic Norwegian wine importer, coffee fanatic who travels with his own grinder, and lover of the more nat'l the better, ordered me to check an American making albarino in Rias Biaxis. Hell, you know me, good 'ole skeptic. But it was Frederik, so I did. What I found was Albarino that wasn't: 1) sweet 2) tropical 3) sauvignon blancish 3) creamy. Not only that but the winemaker and part owner of Benito Santos--Todd Blomberg-- an American who fell in love with a Galician and has lived there for a decade--is working naturally, with a brain that keeps on ticking. He's intent on eliminating S02 usage. His method involved a butter churner. Blomberg only makes albarino and is working on single vineyards. Two elements that drew me to his wines were: a lovely bitterness and a fresh, attention grabbing acidity. You see, acidity is something that I've found lacking in albarino of late as trying to appeal to a mass palate, too many winemakers are deacidifying, capturing sweetness in the wine, and basically reconfiguring nature, reasons I stopped drinking the stuff. According to Todd, the Benito Santos vines...

Alice au Pays du vin naturel, par Le Monde
February 26, 2010


The Paris Book Party, 2/18
February 20, 2010
The day started with a lunch at Chez Casamir near the Gard du Nord. I was meeting with Jean Paul Gene, columnist with Le Monde magazine (out the last Friday in February). My publisher Jean Paul Rocher was joining, he was under the weather, with a cold. Never the less, the three of us knocked off two 2008s; Dard & Ribo Crozes blanc and Overnoy Plouss. Made the interview cheerier. Actually the interview was stimulating and it started with a joke ( I think.) "So, Alice, people might ask you if you've saved the world yet, but what we really want to know is if you've found love yet." I blushed, stammered and was relieved this was not captured on film. But I thought about that moment, as my spoon was in the vegetable soup, for days. I wasn't obsessing about the reality or my answer, but about the cultural differences between Americans and the French and I'm glad that love is still on their minds. The last question he asked was another that sat in my brain. 'You wrote that it is easier to have friends with different politics than different tastes about wine. Why?" I realized that wine...

Millesime Bio Notes
February 17, 2010
The tech sheet included full discloser of oak staves and micro ox. I can't say I got to taste what Egypt terroir is really like. Rather funny was in a google search I came across notes for the perfume Jardin du Nil 'Jardin du Nil opens with aldehydic floral notes and an odd “stinky” accord that's been described as 'dirty socks,' or 'locker room.' This could have worked for the wine as well! I can't say I really enjoyed this but it wasn't that bad either. I do think that a cement elevage might be a smarter choice. For more on this wine, it seems as if Christian Callec did the leg work for me. Other standouts: I Clivi made gorgeous Fruilano wines. About the amphora craze Mario said, "Too much trouble keeping the green gunk out of them." He also mentioned that with the amphora there's too much focus on the cellar. Of particular joy were the 1999 Galea, honey and oxidation. In all no dogs. Each wine bringing new revelation. Try reading what Strappo has to say. Erbaluna! I tasted these years ago and thought, in time these winemakers will come around. And did they. The barolos...

Belly Dancing in Angers
February 17, 2010
After freezing our blood at the Dive tasting (coming up) and taking refuge at the Renaissance tasting in Angers, we headed to a party put together by Pat (of Domaine Griottes) where a woman was belly dancing up a storm. Blissfully grabbing recalcitrant winemakers to their feet. Annaick pulled the camera from my hands and trained it on me as Pascaline & Linda and I drank Clos Fantine at the time and tried to ham it up, failing miserably....

Remise Flashback
February 16, 2010
Before the organic wine tasting in Montpelier, I was headed to La Remise, a tasting which had a reputation as one of those wild and wooly bad boy tastings with mostly were unhealthy advertisements for unsulfured wine. If that had once been true, the tasting has matured. But don't worry, it hasn't matured that much. When La Gramiere Amy and I arrived, people were milking sea rocks--otherwise known as slurping back those mammoth Utah Beach oysters. We scrounged like rodents and came across the worlds most delicious short and dense cookies. Then off to work. Herve Souhaut's 2009. 'nuf said. Truly gorgeous vintage for him. I don't need tastings notes. It doesn't matter. But all around, the wines have a lushness worthy of lushes and those who are amongst the 'anti-flavor elite.' Nothing artificial in these flavors for sure. Podere Le Boncie Chianti with freshness Azienda Panevino Dressner scarfed this one up ( I think more accurately Kevin McKenna). My first sip was that this was Anthony Wilson wine. And the winemaker gets extra cute score as well. Conversation of the day: Had with Andrea Calek, who showed up with a new hacked at haircut and a twinkle in his...

On the way to La Remise
February 11, 2010
The next day, I headed south and stayed the night with Matt Kling and Amy Lillard of La Gramiere, ex-pats who became accidental vigneron, because as Amy said, "We do everything on impulse." Amy laughed a particular kind of laugh, a good-natured, self-effacing laugh that seems to say, "The joke is on me!" Earlier that evening, close to sunset, she picked me up in a near by town next to the church. This being Sunday, the town was silent, except for the cats. At the cafe adjacent to the church a man stood in the window, picking his nose without apology. She arrive with husband Matt. Dogs barking in the car. Quick, to the vines before night fell. This is Lauzette, her favorite, "It makes such gorgeous grenache," she said. Then, onto their farmhouse in St. Quentin la Poterie where Matt stuffed the ravioli . Meanwhile, excellent hostess, she fetched a Cyril Bouchard Inflorescence Blanc de Noirs. She took that first sip with such glee I swear she was saying, "Oh goodie!" The champagne deserved the enthusiasm and Amy deserved applause for such graciousness. The wine is all pinot noir, not dosed up, sky meets earth. Too hard to talk...

Spring Eternal
February 10, 2010
On my only Saturday night in Paris I was going to hook up with my friend Magazino, Mr. TruffleTruck himself, who was i n town with his lovely wife. I waited for them while browsing at Spring Boutique on Rue L'Arbre Sec. Poking about, I was disappointed to see that the boutique was not this perfect little food find as advertised on blogs throughout France, but more of a caviste (decent) and also stocked some products, like common tapenade I can get around the corner from home, at the local Met supermarket. Given that the wine bar/caviste Le Garde-Robe is just across the street, their competition is fierce. "I want fries," Magazino said immediately upon arrival. "I don't care where we eat as long as we have fries." I repeat, this was Saturday night in Paris with no reservations and were on a mission to find good fries and great wine. As far as I could see, Mike Steinberger's Au Revoir to All of That, was true; food no longer existed in France. All of my wine bar standbys were booked. We were looking into the mouth of an epicurean disaster. We enlisted Josh to help brainstorm a restaurant. Josh...

1999 Ploussard Perdu. (Lessons Learned)
February 7, 2010
I knew this would be a life changing trip. I'm not willing to spend another ten years in therapy so I have to take those lessons where I get them. Of those I am currently working on? 1) Take the Money and Run 2) Ask for what you need. 3) Be More Positive! 4) Lose the Guilt The Ploussard Perdu was a classic illustration of how and why I need to integrate these life pointers with speed. Not a moment to lose. The Overnoy was a mere 21 euro. That very night would have been my only chance to drink it. Bringing it to dinner at the Cousin's would be perfect. Digging into my euro stash I purchased, I would have bought two if they had taken Amex. I thought of it all the way up to the Cousin's house. Olivier welcomed up with some fresh, snappy Pet Nat. I presented the wine, wrapped in tissue. Olivier with pet chicken before dinner. That was the mistake. I presented it. It was a gift. In no way did I suggest a partager. I expected him to know. Now, you tell me, how many love affairs and marriages have fallen by the...

From 2 Anes to Toulouse
February 4, 2010
I should start at the beginning, but I need to tell you about something that happened in the middle. The punishing wind, the sweet asses, Millesime Bio and Domaine des 2 Anes behind us we Jenny, Francois (of the selections) and Kate, the lasagna maker and crack sales chick, took the road for the seven -hour drive up north. One hour into it, I saw the Toulouse signs. "Hey! Anthony said there was a great wine bar around here." I quickly scanned my old texts, and sure enough there it was, Le Temps des Vendange. Francois' iPhone GPS guided us through the most visually unusual French city I'd ever been. I'm used to Frenchly white and yellow and bone tinted cities. Limestone cities. Cement cities. But this one could have been Lowell, Massachussets, with its landscape of oxidized red-colored brick buildings. "All the same labels," Jenny whispered to me. At first blush, yes, but then under more careful scrutiny others popped from the shelves. Neither one of use had seen or or ............ and I was delighted to see ... ....a wine Jenny had pointed out to me at the La Remise tasting a few days back, from the barbated,...

GIVE YOUR VALENTINE A BUBBLE BATH IN NOLA
February 3, 2010
We now take a commercial break As first in a series of shout outs about an April event in New Orleans, for an amazing debut. Meet the next generation of wine weekends. Never before has any one put together such celebration of bubbles. And if you can't figure out a sweet Valentine Day gift, get yourself a bottle and two tickets and head down to New Orleans on April 15th for an incredibly bubble bath. Yes, I'll be there. THE INDEPENDANT CHAMPAGNE AND SPARKLING WINE INVITATIONAL...

Greetings from Montpellier
February 1, 2010


La Bataille du Vin et de l'amour
January 27, 2010
View image Now on Amazon, FNAC and elsewhere in France, Jean Paul Rocher's website....

La Remise; Cold and Sunny
January 22, 2010
I have no idea how these guys do it . Vignerons working on their feet pouring wines on a marathon, La Remise, Millesime Bio, then the Dive. Renaissance, Salon, night time carousing and more drinking and on top of that usually crawling into bed at 5am only to start again--and some are even older than me! Welcome to tasting season in France, and there are plenty of Italians and Spanish here as well. I stayed with Amy Lillard (after tasting her wines, visiting her vines, eating her cooking--full disclosure all of you ethic cops out there!) and she drove me. Great fun. Stay tuned there will be more on her, but let me tell you, her 2008 blend La Gramiere is elegant and delicious and love the dash of dry wild forest honey. We bought our glass for 5 euro and then we were off. Discoveries? Yes, amongst the same old faces, but welcome ones, Stefano Belotti, Alsseandra Bera, Arianna, etc.etc. the winemaker for La Stoppa had two orange wines, tannic! (Dinavolo)but clear and musical. Andrea Calek, sporting a new coiffure Amy took this one, and it's so funny I'm braving my battle with vanity. .. and looking very...

Into My Fifth Year as a Wine Blogger? From the Archives
January 19, 2010
How did this happen without me seeing it? But out of nostalgia I thought I'd repost my very first before this grew into something else, bigger than myself. First posted December 12, 2004, and I refer to the cataclysmic summer that had just past. That's me this summer in Tain Hermitage. I was roasting in the Rhone, looking upward, wondering just how hot it was going to get in an hour. Or maybe I was thinking about the beautiful blushed apricots that grew all over the region, plump and firm at the same time, utterly sweet with just a dash of luscious tart. I'd come to France to work on several wine stories. The one in the Northern Rhone was about syrah. Later on that day, I would have lunch smack in the vineyard of Hermitage. Later I'd discuss native yeast fermentation with winemakers whom I deeply respected. I'd taste some remarkable older Hermitage and Cornas (which just doesn't get enough respect), get a huge crush on wine maker deity, Thierry Allemand, I'd walk across the river at sunset. I would end up across the street from my dive hotel- until the wee hours of the night with some friends...

The Teetotaler @ Table
January 17, 2010
I was at a dinner this week, a networking thing. The gathering was extremely pleasant and brought together by so and so to meet so and so and we started with a gorgeous champagne, Marc Hebrat Club Speciale 2004. The star of the evening picked up her water glass to toast. I looked to her glass, the lonely Hebrat. There was no way to save the situation. That glass was doomed for the dump bucket. It soon came out that she didn't like to drink, she also gave up a profound diet soda and caffeine habit and was now turned on to water. There was nothing religious afoot, nor was she a friend of Bill's. At first I thought I should tell her, put yourself in my hands, I'll show you wines you'd love! Then I realized she, on some amimal level, made the right decision for her body chemistry. I also realized there was a situation here to deal with that was perhaps out of my sphere of expertise. I needed someone practiced in finesse to advise me because perfectly lovely wines couldn't be allowed to attract fruit flies in her glass. A second bottle was poured. A...

Help Haiti. Go to Chambers Street
January 15, 2010
If I can afford $10, so can you. Today I've received ten emails to help out Haiti in some way and it's hard to know which venue to take. But wine is the key in joy and sorrow and to drink and to give some dough to send south, might be the perfect pairing. Chambers is hosting a benefit tasting. The wines will be great. 148 Chambers Street New York, NY 10007 Phone: 212-227-1434 Suggested donations of $10 (or more) will go directly to pih.org, Partners in Health, and this sounds pretty direct to me. PIH is organizing volunteer medical personnel and sending needed supplies. Chambers Street Wines and Louis/Dressner Selections will each donate $1,000 as will Polaner Sections. Other companies sponsoring the event and making generous contributions include Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, David Bowler Wines and Michael Skurnik Wines. Taste a great selection of wines (not for sale). If you can't come, please go to pih.org to make your donation. Their website will have updates on the situation and information about their work. We will have forms from Partners in Health enabling your donation by credit card to be tax-deductible....

Chianti as Volnay- Wine Expo Speaks Out
January 10, 2010
This following worlds, and all of the following, was a cut and paste from Santa Monica's Wine Expo mailer.... I guess my book is still relevant. + Fighting Globalization in your Glass 'Once you guys succeed in making all wine taste the same, what will you do for a living?' That is the question we have been asking wholesale reps lately as we have been absolutely barraged by the forces of evil (well, severely misguided, focus group driven winemaking and marketing at least): One importer proudly presented us with a Parker Beatification Certificate pronouncing that one of his Chiantis 'could easily pass for a fine Premier Cru Volnay' (a particularly soft, velvety and UN-CHIANTI-like Burgundy) which we thought was like telling Vince Lombardi that his star linebacker would make a dandy ballerina. Then, adding insult to injury, another supplier came in with two samples alleged to be Cahors (a Southern French red made from Malbec and Tannat that has been famous since Chaucer's time for being BLACK, tarry, brambly and aggressive, just the thing to go with the local diet of confit of duck, fois gras, lamb cassoulet and such) that have been polluted with enough Merlot (?!?!) and a...

Malolactic Fermentation: Banned in Portugal
January 5, 2010
Don't expect a good piece of writing here. Day eight of being sick and the words get plugged up in the brain, yet, I wanted to start up a conversation. Last week I received this email from a reader in Portugal: 'At a guide of red wines, that were tested at a consumer magazine here, they detected that about half had not concluded the malolactic fermentation. That... they hinted... was done intentionally to meet some criteria (prevent too much acidity, or other things), so they admitted... for some reason... it was stopped. Being a consumer magazine, and not a wine magazine, that somehow wasnt seen as a "downer" to the wine." I have to admit I was surprised. The only red wine I know of with blocked malo is commercial nouveau being rushed to market. Word just in from Roberto in LA, that there is a refosco from Terrano del Carso done without ML. And, looking into it a little deeper, blocking malo in part or in full has been done to preserve freshness in hot climes. First some background about the issue of malo, even oversimplified. Historically, left on their own, (meaning without inoculations) in regions with real seasons,...

ASF Wine of the Year
December 29, 2009
And yes, so what was the wine of the year. I am stumped. I buy the same ones over and over. So I offer two that I can't seem to get out of my head. Domaine Bornard Le Ginglet, Trousseau I had it in the Jura and loved it. I had it with its importer Savio Soares at a sushi restaurant on 15th street where we saw a white rat loopy with drugs, in the corner but the Ginglet survived. And then when meeting Hugh Johnson--what a thrill that was--and I was offered the chance to pick a wine under $100, I chose this one at $60. No matter what I ate, it stood up to it. And it stood up to Hugh's dazzling charm as well. And finally,, the wine that my main reactions were...Yum and Yay---all for $17. I opened this wine from the hands of Christian Venier (another Savio Soares) again last night, and granted I'm somewhat flu-ish and less than terribly enthusiastic about drinking or eating anything except zinc and aspirin, but what impressed me about this was the polish on this wine, with the markings of a vin natural. It had the spice on the...

Contemplation on the Year in Wine
December 28, 2009
A few years ago in reaction to other 'wines of the year' I decided to strike back. I mean if the WS can do it why not me? Of course I couldn't compile 100 wines of the year. Maybe if I jumbled it all up with memorable moments, but 100 wines that I can swear by seem like a lot. Then I read their selections and out of a hundred, there are maybe five I'd drink, but I've gone over that territory before. But still, the wine of the year, the wine of the year? The most user friendly? The most delicious? (impossible) The wine I could go to every night of the year and could make me smile? Or was it, given the fact that once again it seems as if I've absolutely no future as a writer, the wine I can afford. Or is the wine I wish I could afford? Or was it the wine that made me laugh the hardest? Or was it the worst wine. You see the worst wine could as well be the wine of the year, why not if it was the most memorable. The worst wine. Now that's a concept. But...

The Year in Pictures
December 26, 2009
One of the best new restaurants I went to in Paris, though I can't quite believe it, but true; 114 Faubourg, in the Hotel le Bristol. Room like the inside of a Klimt painting. Food clean, expensive, but I almost think worth it? Fun and pure. High % of plastic surgery and stunning jewelry. Wonderful cepe soup and a stunning bass wrapped in fennel stalks like a sweet poisson package. There was one wine worth drinking, 2002 Pibarnon. Thank goodness for it on this mostly crappy international wine list. And, ah, that mad and crazy Polish vigneron, Andrea If you can't read my writing; This is the 2007 version of Babiole, a blend of grenache, carignan,syrah, Can't believe this is the 'methode chauvet,' because I can't detect carbonic. There is a hi-ink tone and floral exotica with hefty licorice. I lusted after shoes.True. I saw these hand made doojobs in Paris, taunting me in the shop right next to Marriage Freres in the Marais where I bought my extra tarry Lapsang and these too, not far from Invalides From my friend Stephen, the place you want to stay while in Fes. My wildly talented friend collects the King....

Courtois & Beckmeyer
December 24, 2009
Separated at birth? At least as far as design and philosophy is concerned. This is a frivolous bauble, I just happen to like looking at these bottles side by side. Left: Element Terre '06,Gamay Chaudenay--$27 Right: La Clarine Farm, '08 Sierra Foothill Syrah-$20...

Adventures in Absinthes
December 22, 2009
Absinthe: the notorious, myth-ridden, herb-infused anise flavored spirit that includes the bitter herb wormwood. The drink suffered--as it does today-- from an image problem. Wrongly believed to be a psychoactive, delusion-inducing, even poisonous, the perfectly harmless drink was banned in the United States and most European countries by 1915. And thanks to a reader's tip this past summer, I became aware of absinthe being made up in Walton, New York, the town attached to the spot in the woods in which I overcame my fear of country. I tracked the distiller down, and low and behold, it was a she and she was Cheryl Lins, a fellow obsessive, on the self-taught, alternative route lane. She works on the teensiest commercial still ever. Eight gallon? You bet. That's about it. Her distillery is right on Main Street in a town so depressed, most of the storefronts are shuttered. CVS and McDonalds and the BBQ at the gas station are the big tickets. Out of place? I should say so. But perfect? Oh, yes indeed. You can read about this past off-the-grid yurt-dwelling woman in my story for the New York Times. Meanwhile, check out this little video of her coloration process....

Alice Gets Saved (from switching)
December 20, 2009
"Boots is not going to be a switcher!" a friend said about her charmer of a daughter. It took a few beats for me to understand that we weren't addressing Boots' sexuality, but proper utensil strategy. Under penalty of spanking, the child would eventually (she was still on the bottle) feed herself with the same hand she pierced the morsel of foie and never, ever 'switch' that fork to her more dominant hand to eat. I blushed, because I was harboring a shameful secret. I was raised by wolves. As a result I was switcher, fork went from left to right and then into mouth. I then realized I spent my life eating at the table as if it were the trough and my regrettable habits had been impediments to my getting ahead in life. God is great (though a little too late) and opportunity came my way last year when I was putting the sagrantino to bed. Conveniently already on the west coast, I was invited to the Meadowood resort ostensibly to get a file applied to those rough edges. This was a test drive for some 'Wine Etiquette" weekends they were going to offer (do not know if...

The Post Script: French Version
December 18, 2009
Download file I'm stuck. Plunked in the mud. Stopped in the cold. Brain dull. Struggling to decide which wine is the ASF wine of the year. Such decisions. But the real one that has brought me to the knees is a blank page. What do I write for the post script on the French version of The Book? I keep on staring at that page. What do I want to say to the country who still produces the lion's share of wines I want to drink? My publisher requested that I address in a few words, maybe 1000 or so, how the wine world has changed since I started the book in 2005. "What do you want to say to the French?" he asked. "Why it was so important to be published in France?" Good question. But it was. And is. When my French agent told me that her country wasn't interested in wine and not interested in what an American woman thinks about wine, I went around her and targeted the publisher I wanted, Jean Paul Rocher. My statement is due on Monday. What is it that blocks me? Is it the fear of sounding like an imbecile? Maybe....

Ask Alice Project: Q #11. White Wine Tasting
December 13, 2009
The Burgundy requester snuck in another question. Alice- I'll like to stage a wine tasting. Maybe 6 bottles for a holiday get together with dear friends -- whites from Loire (Huet is a very happy discovery) or Jura. Sweet wines are okay, and if you think I should have a few reds I trust your judgment. ++ I have to give you the capsule version here because Jeffrey and I had MANY back and forths we came to the Jura, where he was really heading. We narrowed it to wines from the Jura: Savagnin vs. Chardonnay with a few Vin Jaune in there as well. That said, I gave him my list of favorite producers and the actual selections? He's on his own. Domaine de la Tournelle (Astor?) Anne et Phillipe Bornard (Astor has a few) Overnoy/Houillon (Astor) Ganevat (Chambers) Montbourgeau (Chambers) Puffeney (Chambers) Domaine Jean Bourdy (might check with the Garagiste, fab vin jaune) For me, not in the same category as the above, but still quite Domaine Berthet-Bondet. (look for it on wine-searcher.com)...

Intermission: The Cold War and Natural Wine
December 12, 2009
Bert Celce has an excellent new post on a debate between the French Parker, Michel Bettane and one of the old guard vin naturel folk, Marcel Richaud. I've been struggling to understand the French recording but Celce did a lovely interpolation for us. Give it a read. Bettane has been quite vocal over the past few years about the dangers of natural winemaking. He denies the category and seems to fear it. You can read the L'express article for yourself. This is a deeply complex debate. Recently many wines made naturally and are true wines of terroir have been rejected from AOC status because judged atypical. They might not have the density or the intense artificial aromas of what is considered typical or standard. This has resulted in a slew of wines being bottled with VDP or VDT (or now called IGP) status instead of carrying the name of the town and region they are from. By opting to make wine outside of the 'standard,' these winemakers have spearheaded the debate and even a breakdown of the status quo. In other words, revolution. It's no surprise that the beginnings of natural wine as a movement is connected to soixante-huit....

Ask Alice Project: Q #10. Burgundy for Father-in-law
December 12, 2009
HI Alice, 1. Holiday gift for 80 year-old father-in-law from Montana who has begun to explore Rhone wines and discovered life beyond California. I would like to introduce him to Burgundy without breaking the bank (say under $350) -- a case of wine that could be all the same (drink over time to see things evolve -- but despite his good health, he is 80), or different bottles. I plan to pull from this same list to provide single bottles for staff at work, neighbors and myself. So many bottles so little time. But the price point was too low. I suggested he try some Cru Beaujolais, which is age worthy (more so than basic bourgogne) and can be had for that price. The answer? He loves his father-in-law and it needs to be Burgundy, so he gave me leeway to double the price. And so with about $50 a bottle, I had room to move. I am just in love with Chandon de Briaille---esp. the 2006 vintage. I think this is the cookie for a case to watch its development. I'd opt for the les des Vergelesses, 1er cru. About $50 per bottle. If you wanted to mix it...

Ask Alice Project: #9; Poland!
December 12, 2009
Alice! I will be in Poland (just outside of Krakow) for New Years. Where can I buy/drink natural wine?? Thanks! Joe! This is a trick question? Frederik will know better than I. However I saw Gulfi (not hardcore but lovely) at vinokeka. Also, about six years ago after a hard and frigid morning at Birkenau, when I could eat again, I had dinner at Hotel Copernicus, the Relais & Chateau joint and there was some Bartolo Mascarello. So, the wine bar there, while not natural, might have some good things to drink. Let me know what you find, okay? --Alice But Breaking News: This just in from Poland. Pretty exciting stuff! Andrzej wrote in response to vinosseur: Joseph, try at wina.pl, they have some natural/biodynamic/real wines, from Dario Princic, Leon Barral and some others as well. Another one, dionizos.com, is about to be reopened and you should be able to find the wines of Movia there. Both are located in Krakow. (Thank you Andrzej!)...

Go Ask Alice Project: #8; Gifting Sparklers
December 11, 2009
Alice-for office gift for my staff about $25. That Cremant de jura? Of course, my editors get me for free, but since I was asked during this 'offering' I thought he qualified. The Jura we talked about was the Dom. de Montbourgeau Cremant. All chardonnay, extremely gorgeous, one hell of a bargain, and while I'm a slut for bubbles (organic & biodynamic mostly) from Champagne, this one takes no prisoners. Made by vigneron Nicole Deriaux, and this is her in her vineyard in the village of Etoile....

Ask Alice Project: Q #7. Help near Geneva!
December 10, 2009
Dear Alice, Is the project still open? If so, here is my request: I have good friends coming from Israel who will be staying with me for the holidays so I need to stock up. The husband is a chef/former restaurant owner and would say he knows a thing or two about wine. I would really like to impress here. I need suggestions for what to serve with meals (I don't mind building the meal around the wine) and maybe a sparkler for celebrating. I live just outside of Geneva, Switzerland not too far from the french border. Budget is 15-20 euros/bottle. Here's the website of where I usually shop, but not limited to this. http://www.vinothequeduleman.com/ Thanks, Rena --- Oy Rena! We have to work with that store. I think you'll be pleased, but I'm concerned that the Israelies will be used to processed clunkers. Am hoping the class of these will trump the chunk. Let me know how it turns out! Stock up on beaujolais! These are all excellent producers and the Roillete and Desvignes are house favorites. MORGON Louis Claude Desvignes (cote de py) 2007 7.94 e FLEURIE Clos de la Roilette 2008 9.20 € FLEURIE Yvon Metras...

Go Ask Alice: Q #6. Shopping in Alberta, Ca.
December 10, 2009
Hi Alice, This is my first time commenting, but definitely not my first time visiting the page after I read and enjoyed your book last Christmas. I'm not sure if I'm making it in the first 15 requests, but I'll give it a shot anyway I'm looking for Italian reds between $20 - $50 to serve my family, who generally appreciate quite full-bodied wines. I'd love to serve some examples of what traditional varieties should really taste like, not ones that have been engineered to compete with Australian shiraz. The catch is... the wines would need to be available in British Columbia or Alberta, Canada. As an alternative to the Italian request, I'd also love to hear some recommendations for nice Champagnes or, really, any other "old world" traditional wine in the same price range that I could get in this part of Canada. I'd like to claim that those would be for gifts, but I'd probably only be willing to give them to people who would let me share in the consumption. :-) Nicole! I was able to find one store that you could work with. Even though the Italian pickings are slim, DeVine wines had some hidden gems....

The Go Ask Alice Project Q:5 (wines for vegans)
December 10, 2009
#5- So my husband and I are vegans and we eat a lot of vegetable stews - with potatoes or butternut squash - can you recommend a red to go with that? Also, I am looking for a red just to sit and drink by the fire - something you want to sip that is very rich. kind of a special bottle, maybe one about $30.00 and one about 50.00 - is that too vague? And do you have a sparkling wine I can give as a gift that is under $15.00? I'm near chambers street wine - I can go there- thanks Susan I thought. She's compromised by lack of cheese, a thought that makes me as sad as a pig lover finding out I don't go near cracklin' but still, I'd say go a little older on the Chateauneufs. **Bosquet des Papes 2007 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Tradition $40.99 **Bosquet des Papes 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Tradition $33.99 Oddly enough the same profile will go with stews--at least tomato based ones. So any Rhone will do, but as you're not using cheese, maybe go with an earthier wine. **Coulaine 2006 Chinon Bonaventure I love it. Definitely needs food, and maybe...

The Go Ask Alice Project; Q #4
December 9, 2009
# 4- Affordable wine in N. Virginia! So, thanks to my friend Raelinn who turned me on to Beatrice et Pascal Lambert Chinon Tradition Graves 2006 $16 Clos du Tue-Boeuf Cheverny Rouge 2008 $18 Domaine De La Bergerie Anjou "Sous La Tonnelle" 2008 $13 (chenin) Govone Barbera D'Alba Superiore 2005: $ 13.99 Leitz Dragonstone Riesling $22...

The Go Ask Alice Project Q:1-3
December 8, 2009
They asked for help. I tried to do my best. Here are the first four requests. #1 This one came in from Susan. I am writing to ask for your advice for my Chanukah dinner. I am making a brisket tzimmes, with carrots, sweet potatoes and a tomato/beef sauce which contains brown sugar and prunes as well as latkes. What wine would be best to serve with this? My 11 person crowd is only 1/2 Jewish so it would not have to be kosher.++++ This one is tough. Latkes are difficult and while I could see a cabernet franc, the greasiness screams out for a sparkler. So here's what I said. Both sparklers about $20. Pinon, Francois NV Vouvray Brut AND if you want to go ultra geeky-- Donati 2008 Malvasia dell'Emilia IGT Frizzante $2o. And for the Tzimmes: Monte Dall' Ora 2006 Valpolicella Classico $16.99 This will be perfect, great acidity and a hint of raisin richness to meld well with the brisket. #2: This one came in from Amy in the Bay Area. Looking for birthday champagne, about $50? And it has to be really pretty. I recommended. NV Raymond Boulard Rose, a gorgeous wine 2002 Drappier Grande...

Go Ask Alice
December 7, 2009
Get me for free this year, 'cause next year it will cost. Why? Because it drives me nuts to see people giving the wrong wine to the wrong people when it would be so easy to give the right stuff. Here's the deal. First 10 people who email me with their holiday wine/spirits needs gets me for free. Here's what I want to help you with. ** What to drink ** How and what to give whom (under what ever circumstances) ** What to pour/serve. This will be very personalized, almost pyschic gift giving consultations, no matter where you live and no matter how far away from the good stuff you live and no matter what price point you want to hit. Corporate, individual, whatever! If it's a ton of work I'll let you know and you can figure out a way to thank me. If you're interested hit the contact button above or better yet! Leave your request in the comments and I promise to address the issue. (Just in case you wonder, the only kick back is satisfaction.)...

Falling For Madeira/The Morgan Library Tasting
December 5, 2009
Mannie Berk looks and sounds more professorial than merchant yet is the owner of The Rare Wine Company. The man (might be a saint, not sure yet) has been on a mission to save the soul and the reputation of Madeira, the fortified wine made on the island belonging to Portugal but closer to Africa. Last year, lucky and persistent Mr. Berk scored a number of trophies when the last remaining Leacock sold off the family jewels (methinks, heresy. But what could be done? The chap didn't fancy the wine.) Because Jupiter must have been influencing life for me back in the fall, Berk invited me to experience several of his purchases, along with Rare Wine Company customers, at the Morgan Library in October. Before this moment I had had the odd bottle of Madeira and didn't know my Malmsey from my Boal from my Sercial. While sipped in amounts that were too moderate, the moments were enough that put Port in its place. (Port, by the way, while charming, I never found compelling. But here, this Morgan Moment was cataclysmic.) The shipping method of Madeira was an essential part of its terroir. As the spirited wines were sent...

December '09 Party Wine , Party #2
December 5, 2009
The one everyone has been waiting for, party wines from Chambers Street Wines, my home away from home. Wait my home is the home away from their home the chambers street website 148 Chambers Street New York, NY 10007 Phone: 212-227-1434 Since I'm a terribly pill about wine, I want you to know that if you put an assortment of these out, I'll be more than happy to come over and drink. France Schueller, Gerard 2007 Alsace Riesling Cuvee Particuliere This puppy isn't for everyone, but it will be great with cocktail food. Expect a touch of that old natural VA. $11.99 **Terres Dorees (Jean-Paul Brun) 2008 Beaujolais Chardonnay Your guests will fall in love with you, even the california drinkers. $14.99 * Bregeon, Michel 2007 Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie You know the way I feel about Muscadet.. 11,99 **Pepiere (Marc Ollivier) 2008 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Ditto for the kind of melon! 12.99 **Chaumont, Guy 2005 Bourgogne Pinot Noir I'm afraid to tell you about this. Real burgundy. Lovely. Serve this at dinner parties instead of for the crowd. 18.99 *Guion 2007 Bourgueil Cuvee Domaine The '06 was Alice Feiring's wine of the year....

December '09 Party Wine
December 4, 2009
When I was asked about which wines to buy at Trader Joe's under $20 a bottle, I realized my friends needed help. When I got another call, with more serious consequences, I saw I had no choice. "Will you be around this season?" my friend asked. "Like, where should I be going?" I said. "Great! So you'll be here." "Maybe yes, maybe no. The wind blows secrets," I said. "Well," she said, " If you're around, and if you come over, I want to make sure you can drink something instead of always bringing your own." Her sweetness took me out of talmudic stupor. I decided I was going to put together a shopping list of inexpensive wines, 98% honestly made and even the other 2% honest enough. (mostly under $15) that 1) i can drink and some i 2) love to drink. Those with stars get extra credit! This list is compiled from the current inventory at Astor Wines & Spirits in New York City. Chew on these guys. And invite me over. WHITES Minervois Blanc, La Tour Boisée - 2008 (750) Bottle Price: 8.00 *Alsace Blanc, Kuentz-Bas - 2007 (750) Bottle Price: $12 Cotes de Duras Blanc, Ch....

Traiteur, Trader or Traitor Joe?
December 1, 2009
An email rang in on Erev Thanksgiving. Is there anything to buy at Trader Joe under $20 that is any good? I told her NO! Nothing. And nothing is good above $20 either. Truth? I never walked into the wine department on 14th street in NYC or anywhere else for that matter. The fuel in my engine was assumption. Guess what? I knew. I knew. Of course I knew. Hell, I wish I could be surprised, like I have been in Cosco! But here it was biz as usual and I felt like getting up on a wine crate in front of the $40 Clicquot (!). I squelched that desire to scream to the shoppers, "Escape now while you can!" Why would anyone go there to spend more than $4 for bad wine? What I could see is that it doesn't matter if you spend $4 or $40, the wine is still bad. I took a quick spin through the aisles to see if I had to buy something there what it would be. The answer was German. But it was $30 and J.J. Prum for the 07 Kabinett, which is about $1 cheaper than other places. Everything else was...

COMMENT TRAUMA???
November 26, 2009
I've had MANY emails from readers who are thwarted when trying to post a comment. I have no idea why but, as you see, activity is way down on my blog so you are not alone. This advice came from a reader who was successful. if you are not registered you need to click on the Disqus icon immediately above "add a new comment". It will bring up a dialog box that allows you to register. If you attempt to register by clicking on "post as a guest" it can not be done, even if you select the register option. Hope this helps. And really sorry for this. Sometimes it doesn't even let me register or comment. If all else fails, email me your comment and I will post it and maybe knock some sense into its head....