The Feiring Line

Savio Soares Tasting

How is it possible that Savio Soares and I had never met? Everyone in the wine world in NYC was buzzing about this portfolio. But, did I know who he was? No. All was fixed at a dinner, instigated by The Brooklyn Guy

Louis/Dressner Report

I know any second I'll get some crap asking me, where's that report? After all, didn't Joe bribe me with a bottle and a twenty dollar bill....and a metro card? (I sell myself cheap) Panevino IGT Isola dei Nuraghi Rhosso Ogu & the Piccade 2007 Loved both of these. Not sure if they're both cannonau, but it seemed so. Piccade--the latter was filled with clove tobacco, jerusalem artichoke. gorgeous texture. Wow. Domaine de Souch Jurancon Sec Tangy, deep and very apple. Chamber's Street Wines co-founder, David (L.) said, "I guess I'll have to taste it again." he wasn't thrilled. It's probably the price. David didn't want a white Jurancon he'd have to sell for $30. Damien Coquelet 2007 Chiroubles Cheers for this newcomer. Dard & Ribo 2007 They're all knock outs. Even the nay sayers will love them. Roanga (I'm not going to tell you my favorites, find out for yourself) Eric Texier Hey! He brought a sample of his Fukuoka inspired farming

Louis/Dressner Report

I know any second I'll get some crap asking me, where's that report? After all, didn't Joe bribe me with a bottle and a twenty dollar bill....and a metro card? (I sell myself cheap) Panevino IGT Isola dei Nuraghi Rhosso Ogu & the Piccade 2007 Loved both of these. Not sure if they're both cannonau, but it seemed so. Piccade--the latter was filled with clove tobacco, jerusalem artichoke. gorgeous texture. Wow. Domaine de Souch Jurancon Sec Tangy, deep and very apple. Chamber's Street Wines co-founder, David (L.) said, "I guess I'll have to taste it again." he wasn't thrilled. It's probably the price. David didn't want a white Jurancon he'd have to sell for $30. Damien Coquelet 2007 Chiroubles Cheers for this newcomer. Dard & Ribo 2007 They're all knock outs. Even the nay sayers will love them. Roanga (I'm not going to tell you my favorites, find out for yourself) Eric Texier Hey! He brought a sample of his Fukuoka inspired farming

Jenny & Francois

Briefly noted picks. Domaine Derain (St. Aubin, Burgundy) Love their PetNat (sparkling Aligote) and the 2006 Le Bon as well as the '06 Mercurey which was tar and marshmallow. Didier Monchovet Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire (tart, berry gamay) and a kick-ass cremant. Also do look out for their 2003 Hautes Cotes de Beaune.The year was hot, mostly made flabby wines. This one works Domaine Binner Everything from this Alsatian domaine is lovely. (Don't forget their Pinot) 2005 Saveurs Printanieres, one of those Alsatian blends, is your spring/summer wine. Cousin Leduc Pur Breton Olivier in the Anjou is someone to buy in every year. The 2006 has plenty of carnation, lots of life and texture the VV has a berry nose and is as deep as a quarry. Comptoirs de Magdala Amourvedre From young vines in Bandol. This 2007 will work when you are in a mood for lots of silt and texture and need to shake your fist (at whomever) for emphasis. Domaine Deux Anes Magali (she is in the winery, her husband Dominqueis in the vines) can do no wrong. Just buy whatever you find. Chemin de Bassac Pinot The 2007 is your new party wine. Not too much structure, but at this price point ($13?) where else are you going to get something this good in this grape? Romaneaux-Destezet Herve is a brilliant winemaker up in the Catskill-like Ardeche hills of the Northern Rhone. 2007 Souteronne (old vine N. Rhone gamay--horsey and bramble) 2007 Syrah (look for twig and cocoa), Saint Joseph, (elegance and wisdom) and the Sainte Epine (knock out from a prime vineyard in St. Joseph).... I rest my case. Herve's wines are always jumping with vitality. These wines absolutely refuse to stay in the glass.

Jenny & Francois

Briefly noted picks. Domaine Derain (St. Aubin, Burgundy) Love their PetNat (sparkling Aligote) and the 2006 Le Bon as well as the '06 Mercurey which was tar and marshmallow. Didier Monchovet Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire (tart, berry gamay) and a kick-ass cremant. Also do look out for their 2003 Hautes Cotes de Beaune.The year was hot, mostly made flabby wines. This one works Domaine Binner Everything from this Alsatian domaine is lovely. (Don't forget their Pinot) 2005 Saveurs Printanieres, one of those Alsatian blends, is your spring/summer wine. Cousin Leduc Pur Breton Olivier in the Anjou is someone to buy in every year. The 2006 has plenty of carnation, lots of life and texture the VV has a berry nose and is as deep as a quarry. Comptoirs de Magdala Amourvedre From young vines in Bandol. This 2007 will work when you are in a mood for lots of silt and texture and need to shake your fist (at whomever) for emphasis. Domaine Deux Anes Magali (she is in the winery, her husband Dominqueis in the vines) can do no wrong. Just buy whatever you find. Chemin de Bassac Pinot The 2007 is your new party wine. Not too much structure, but at this price point ($13?) where else are you going to get something this good in this grape? Romaneaux-Destezet Herve is a brilliant winemaker up in the Catskill-like Ardeche hills of the Northern Rhone. 2007 Souteronne (old vine N. Rhone gamay--horsey and bramble) 2007 Syrah (look for twig and cocoa), Saint Joseph, (elegance and wisdom) and the Sainte Epine (knock out from a prime vineyard in St. Joseph).... I rest my case. Herve's wines are always jumping with vitality. These wines absolutely refuse to stay in the glass.

Notes from the March '09 Michael Skurnik Tasting

I'm so behind, I can't catch up. So to be direct, I've been out tasting. Here's what I've liked and what I didn't like. I zoomed in an out in an hour, so was just looking for ....something. I believe it's just as useful to tell you what I don't like, so both are included. That morning there was a rumor that Cali Pino was getting better. Frankly, I think they should pull out the vines and start all over, but that is obviously an unpopular point of view. Pass the Puzelat please? Peay Vineyards:Sonoma Coast Estate, 2007 Extremely fruit forward. There was something grounding it in reality but, for those who like a sweet thing. Somoma Coast Pomarium Estate 2007 Exuberant but thankfully not cloying and somewhat unfocused, breathy finish, Failla (made by Ehren Jordan) From my notes, not bad. Marked by an orange juice quality. Occidental RIdge Vineyard 2006 has some expression. My notes were lacking, but basically I said if you like California Pinot and also my kind of wines, this will work. HIrsch Vineyard I've yet to have the wine I really liked from this vineyard, or one at least I could drink. There is plenty of power, for sure,not what I'm after though. Long painful finish. For the pinot drinker who hates Burgundy. Domaine de L'Arlot 2006 NSG 1er Cru Clos de Forests Plenty of old lady perfume here, that chanel quality I love so much in burgs. But there was no transparency and I feel the oak, but still. But still. I wouldn't kick it out of bed. Domaine Ferrando Chateauneuf du Pape 2006 Flat, dark, prune, lifeless. Instead, go for the Clos du Mont Olivet 2006 I wrote no notes, just gave it 3 *** and three !!! in my book that means, typical of the beauty chateauneuf can strut. It might be about $45 on the shelves. Domaine Arlaud Burgs Had been seeing these around, fairly priced. Not in my house though. Domaine MARC ROY ** (Never had these Burgundies before , and I really liked them, even though she has a 100% new oak regime. Still.) Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur Some very nice life, and a flash of the savory. Interesting HENRI JOUAN Chambolle-Musigny 2006 at way less than an expensive California pinot I could be drinking this lovely, femine, rose petal number instead. I seemed to like them all but the Clos St. Denis was extremely out of kilter. LOVE WINE OF THE DAY DOMAINE DU TUNNEL Maybe it's the terrific 2007 vintage but the arrow hit my heart here. According to John Livingstone Learmonth's book. Stephane Roberts destems around 60%. The wine is clean, modern in that sense, and the vineyard work and the structure of the wine (without the help of new oak) comes through. St. Peray 2007 all apple and apricot. St. Joseph 2007 muscle. tight. dark fruit and spice. ride em horsee. Cornas Ah, rusticity refined. Finesse and lively acidity. Cornas Vin Noir 2006 I dropped to my knees and prayed. Touch of mint made it way into these 100 year old vines.

Notes from the March '09 Michael Skurnik Tasting

I'm so behind, I can't catch up. So to be direct, I've been out tasting. Here's what I've liked and what I didn't like. I zoomed in an out in an hour, so was just looking for ....something. I believe it's just as useful to tell you what I don't like, so both are included. That morning there was a rumor that Cali Pino was getting better. Frankly, I think they should pull out the vines and start all over, but that is obviously an unpopular point of view. Pass the Puzelat please? Peay Vineyards:Sonoma Coast Estate, 2007 Extremely fruit forward. There was something grounding it in reality but, for those who like a sweet thing. Somoma Coast Pomarium Estate 2007 Exuberant but thankfully not cloying and somewhat unfocused, breathy finish, Failla (made by Ehren Jordan) From my notes, not bad. Marked by an orange juice quality. Occidental RIdge Vineyard 2006 has some expression. My notes were lacking, but basically I said if you like California Pinot and also my kind of wines, this will work. HIrsch Vineyard I've yet to have the wine I really liked from this vineyard, or one at least I could drink. There is plenty of power, for sure,not what I'm after though. Long painful finish. For the pinot drinker who hates Burgundy. Domaine de L'Arlot 2006 NSG 1er Cru Clos de Forests Plenty of old lady perfume here, that chanel quality I love so much in burgs. But there was no transparency and I feel the oak, but still. But still. I wouldn't kick it out of bed. Domaine Ferrando Chateauneuf du Pape 2006 Flat, dark, prune, lifeless. Instead, go for the Clos du Mont Olivet 2006 I wrote no notes, just gave it 3 *** and three !!! in my book that means, typical of the beauty chateauneuf can strut. It might be about $45 on the shelves. Domaine Arlaud Burgs Had been seeing these around, fairly priced. Not in my house though. Domaine MARC ROY ** (Never had these Burgundies before , and I really liked them, even though she has a 100% new oak regime. Still.) Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur Some very nice life, and a flash of the savory. Interesting HENRI JOUAN Chambolle-Musigny 2006 at way less than an expensive California pinot I could be drinking this lovely, femine, rose petal number instead. I seemed to like them all but the Clos St. Denis was extremely out of kilter. LOVE WINE OF THE DAY DOMAINE DU TUNNEL Maybe it's the terrific 2007 vintage but the arrow hit my heart here. According to John Livingstone Learmonth's book. Stephane Roberts destems around 60%. The wine is clean, modern in that sense, and the vineyard work and the structure of the wine (without the help of new oak) comes through. St. Peray 2007 all apple and apricot. St. Joseph 2007 muscle. tight. dark fruit and spice. ride em horsee. Cornas Ah, rusticity refined. Finesse and lively acidity. Cornas Vin Noir 2006 I dropped to my knees and prayed. Touch of mint made it way into these 100 year old vines.

Night In Burgundy Heaven: Part One & Two

I'm still recovering from this weekend's wine extravaganza founded by Daniel Johness for those besotted with Burgundy.

While others in town for the event started drinking on Thursday night with the various private La Paulée parties, I didn't get down to it until Saturday with Becky Wasserman's seminar and then later at the walk -around tasting. Where I saw one of my favorite winemakers, Claude de Nicolay. 

 

 

That's Claude at the Domaine in Savigny, when I visited in 2007.

 

She showed her  2006's and I found them brillaint. She is in her 3rd year of biodynamics. There is a heavy percentage of stems which give the wines an exotic spice and a touch of funk that I find riveting. They were vital, elegance and grip and without the take no prisoners approach to concentration that was so easy to find in this tasting. But a sip of the Ile des Veregelesses blanc or rouge, charm, provoke and tease. In my mind, the reds thumbed their nose (politely) at all the other reds in the room. But wait! Something peculiar is happening, I'm tasting metal in everything. I thought it was a flower day but perhaps it's a metal day? Are there metal days? It's not unpleasant but it is a shock.

 

Night In Burgundy Heaven: Part One & Two

I'm still recovering from this weekend's wine extravaganza founded by Daniel Johness for those besotted with Burgundy. While others in town for the event started drinking on Thursday night with the various private parties, La PauleeBecky & Peter WassermanCity Winery in 2007 at the domain. In particular? Everything. The 2006's are brillaint. She is in her 3rd year of biodynamics. There is a heavy percentage of stems which give the wines an exotic spice and a touch of funk that I find riveting. They were vital, elegance and grip and without the take no prisoners approach to concentration that was so easy to find in this tasting. But a sip of the Ile des Veregelesses blanc or rouge, charm, provoke and tease. In my mind, the reds thumbed their nose (politely) at all the other reds in the room. But wait! Something peculiar is happening, I'm tasting metal in everything. I thought it was a flower day but perhaps it's a metal day? Are there metal days? It's not unpleasant but it is odd.

Dressner's Tasting in Valaire

Thierry Puzelat picked me up in Blois and we traveled the 25 minutes to Valaire and L'erbe Rouge, his girlfriend's restaurant. There, Joe was meeting his group of travelers. Most of the French producers were to be there Friday, the Italians on Saturday. Joe was there with a snoodly cap on his head, looking fatigued but happy. Let's have a moment here about the place's bread. It shames the seigle I shelp home from Poilaine. And the tasting first followed by lunch and drinking. What can be bad? Now, I write about the Louis/Dressner portfolio enough and plenty. And I should give a meticulous account of the tasting and I will in the Tasting Note section of this blog--promise-- but I do want to mention a few highlights: Clos de La Roilette's 2008 did not disappoint. Watch out though for limited availability on the Cuvee Tardive. Like so many winemakers in France, the yields in this vintage were extremely low. The big debut was George Descombe's step-son, D. Coquelet's who was pouring right next to George. tangy raspberry Chiroubles. A refreshing beaujo for sure. And for those who noted a great deal of sheepy brett on previous Descombs vintages, in 2008 and 2007, the wines were brett free. The moment of genuflection came in front of Rene Dard. I gave my condolences for his loss--2000 bottles in a fire this past harvest. Then I tasted a brand new cuvee, called Fou Foune, a brash youngster. I asked how old the vines. Shocked? Yes. The answer shocked me--3 year old vines. Are they using dreaded clones, I wondered. What the hell, clone or not, the wines were twiggy and as fun as a new puppy. Then the 2007 Crozes and 2007 St. Joseph--nothing short of beauty. I rest my case. Lucky for me, right next to Dard was Eric Texier. Flip the page to find out why.