Former? I thought I was still a wallflower. That link will bring you to a glimpse of my fraught HILI (Hebrew Institute of Long Island, that is) high school reunion and proof positive that while some of grow, some never change.
Former? I thought I was still a wallflower. That link will bring you to a glimpse of my fraught HILI (Hebrew Institute of Long Island, that is) high school reunion and proof positive that while some of grow, some never change.
"Will pineau d'aunis be allowed the Touraine appellation comes 2016?" asked my friend in California who was trying to interpret the new laws.
"Nope," I said.
"So strange," she said, "that the AOC can protect and do the opposite simultaneously."
The Appellation system of France was born in 1935, to try to preserve wine's integrity. They've done some good such as organizing the complex system, giving credence to areas that came up in quality but they've made huge booboos. Some of them? Banishing grapes like aligoté and gamay from great terroir in Burgundy.
Oh, you say, what was a mistake about that? Look what they did? Everyone knows about Burgundy being Chardonnay and Pinot Noir? If you tasted what I tasted in Corton, you'd know what you missed. And really, is Burgundy really so popular because people can guess the varietal correctly or is it the place?
And once again, proving that no one learns from the mistakes of the past they are trying to dumb down the wines of the Loire mostly for people who won't spend more than $8 anyway. They are going for the broadest common denominator.
As of 2016, the new white of Touraine is sauvignon blanc--the only white wine that can get the appellation. Trust me on this, despirte the success of Burgundy, the Touraine is not going to replace Sancerre any time soon. It will not be known for $40 sauvignong blanc. This is the law that inspired M. Puzelat who makes beautiful menu pineau to say, "I'm getting ready to be a table wine maker." Many of his wines will now be made from forbidden grapes in his area so he will have to label them Vin de France. VdF is the appellation with the most freedom in the bottle and the least information on the label--because you want a bottle just to drink--here you go. So how will the drinker know that a VdF is not just a thermovinfied creature but one with a soul and a place? They will have to do their research. f
Huff....As if place didn't matter.
Another casualty for the wine world will be the loss of pineau d'aunis. Yes, friends, our gorgeous, peppery, velvety and seductive pineau d'aunis. The wine that Anthony Wilson created a song for. The wine, as in the beauties that came from Clos Roche Blanche will still be made but will be labeled Vin de France.
Pineau d' will allowed as a rosé, but only as a blend. CRB pineau d' rosé? Bye Bye appellation.
So, in summation:
The INAO says for the regions of Indre-et-Loire, Loir-et-Cher
En effet pour l'AOC Touraine blanc, il n'y aura plus que le Sauvignon blanc.
Pour les rouges :
- AOC Touraine Gamay (100% gamay)
- AOC Touraine rouge : assemblage cabernet, cot, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, gamay.
- AOC Touraine rosé : cabernet franc, cab sauvignon, cot, gamay, grolleau pineau d'aunis, pinot gris, pinot noir
The morning of the march I was a pigtailed kid on a family trip with my family to D.C. It was the year before my father understood a martini. The year before he had that silly goatee and the year before he went down to Montgomery--to extract Stokely Carmichael out of jail, yet again, for backing out of his driveway.
Our Capital visit was coming to an end--my brother and I had Dennis the Menace comic books as our guide--(far better than our parents) and I didn't really know what was going on but I wanted to stay. There were crowds of people flowing in like human rivulets on the city. My mother was in a panic, "We have to get out of here!"
My mother was always ruled by fear, and that sometimes fogged in her sense of right. She'd seen the dogs and the water hoses opened up on peaceful people seeking freedom in the South, and she was being a lioness, I have to forgive her. But how, I wondered could she really want us to run from it. The march happening almost in front of us was a wrapped up present of fate. And we didn't stay around to pull the string.
The fights started. The panic. My father wanted to stay. I wanted to stay. My brother wanted to stay. I have no clue about my grandparents but, I'm sure they wanted out. Too many of their kind had been killed, it was see a crowd? Flee. In the end, there were three sullen Feirings facing off three scared Avrechs. It was the last battle my mother won in that marriage. With Phil dead, no one is here to tell me the details, but he never ever forgot not being there.
We hopped into the Buick, the first one. We left Washington when the air was a high buzz. An e-string pinging in the heat and the tension. I would forever regret sitting in traffic going north when instead, I could have heard magic.
For the Feiring household, it was the beginning of the slide.
If you come to Georgia for wine, sooner or later you’ll find yourself in the sweet little town of Signagi. Or at least, if you're smart you will. It's about 1.5 hours southeast from Tbilisi towards the Caucasus. It's a picture perfect, hilltop touristic town, complete with an image ruining casino. But that shouldn't stop you as it's perfectly situated for exploring the wine area of Khaketi and when you come back sweaty from it all, you can eat and drink at the Pheasant’s Tears wine bar.
Owned by friend and American ex-pat, John Wurdeman, the list is packed with the best of Georgian wines, Pheasants Tears and his buddies, even a few that are not totally natural. John is afterall, a nice guy. And if you get a yen for something else, Ganevat (it's true, if you can't find FanFan in NYC, go to Tbilisi or Signagi)Puzelat and Princic and friends are on the list.
I've been in Signagi on all three of my trips to this country. This last June I was in Georgia for near to a month, working on a book as well as overlapping with the second annual qvevri conference, I returned, several times. Alone, with John and with about 30 of my new best friends. But when in town, there wasn't a day I didn't eat or drink something from the wine bar.
John's chef, Gia is one hell of a talent and pulls strongly from the riches of the spice route, sumptuous , heady, sensual. There are always local surprises whether newly foraged Cesar mushrooms.
Or, how about some creeping vine? Sure it sounds as if it.s out of an Avengers movie but is more delectable than broccoli rabe.
A few nights got tossed under the two sheets to the wine and chacha wind bridge. I had no complaints.
But as it happened, on the last night of the conference, some of us were put up at the newly opened Kabadoni hotel.
I needed it. Badly. And I needed it so much that when I found out I could downgrade my room to an $80 number, I said, sign me up.
I was on the road a lot, on couches and day beds and needing privacy and a little pampering. So sue me.
Now, look it’s still Georgia. On the Wednesday I went down for breakfast I was told I was out of luck until 8. Nothing happened at 8. Finally someone realized I needed a coffee and that happened around 9. Coffee was great (be prepared for a lot of instant in this country--this was espresso machine pumped and not bad). And so was the freshly made matsoni, thick yogurt. As usual, the electricity goes out once a day, but it's Georgia. I am not big on spa, even though the prices for treatments were silly reasonable (most around $40-$50). I stayed in and worked instead of checking it out or heading the sauna. This is what I do. I book into a hotel and work. Weird. I know.
There are guest houses in town, for as low as $15 I hear. They are sweet, people are friendly and a good choice for longer stays, but sometimes a hotel, views, fab sheets and wifi are needed. If you’re willing to forgive the Kabdoni's lack of obsessiveness of detail, after all, thanks to John, they also have Franck Pascal Sagesse on the wine list and the rooms, even in the big boys, are lots cheaper than the Georges V.
Hotel Kabadoni/Tamar Mepe Street/ Signagi 4200
All right. It has to happen. So let it flow.
When I read Lettie Teague's lead in the WSJ, it was obvious where she was going.
WILLIAM JAMES was not only a famous philosopher but a source of some pretty memorable quotes. One of his better-known observations, "Belief creates the actual fact," came to mind recently as I was researching the topic of natural wine.
Yes, I said to myself, with a different interpretation that could indeed well describe what happend with the grass root phoenonemon of natural wine.
To recap, in the 1970s Marcel Lapierre observed The two tits of the Beaujolais are sugar and sulfur. Marcel, who lived in Morgon in the Beaujolais, having decided that the wines he made were undrinkable, he wanted to return to real wine that tasted delicious, the way generations before him worked. He hooked up with Jules Chauvet, a winemaker/scientist researching ways to bring a stable, lovely, additive-free wine to the table, staring with organic viticulture. An essential piece of the history was to make a wine without the use of added sulfur.
Why? Well, chemical agriculture was wrong. Additives interfere with direct expression. Too much sulfur was obnoxious, smells and felt awful. Those were beliefs. Winemakers and their friends were huge drinkers who didn't want the huge sulfur hangover. That was desire. Out of that great combo of belief and desire the trend to make these wines grew. More winemakers tasted them, liked them, and worked that way. Drinkers loved them. It was a secret spoken out loud.
Today, demand is greater than the supply. This is a situation guaranteed to activate any marketers salivatory glands. I think it must be getting some more conventional winemakers antsy. Afterall, when wines like Provence's Pfifferling are on allocation, (fact) wouldn't others who make more expensive wine get a little jealous? Being closed out of the wines she wants and needs is driving sommeliers like Pascaline Lepeltier crazy There simply isn't enough of the good stuff around. So I have to wonder, what wines Lettie tasted that she rejected.
For the piece, (it didn't get in) Lettie asked me when the term natural wine first came to be used. I suspected that it originated with the bar a vins naturel...so probably the wine bars in Paris started to use it? I emailed Thierry Puzelat to confirm. He said, "In my memory, at first we were using vins sans soufre, vin naturel came later just before we created the association about 10 years ago." Jean-Pierre Robinot's wife Noella had a different take. Robinot had one of the first of two natural wine bars in Paris. (Francois Morel had the other).
Le terme “ vin naturel” a été utilisé par un groupe de passionnés de vins ( dont je faisais partie) qui ont crée les uns après les autres leur bar à vins ; et ce à partir de 1986. On dégustait des Morgons sans sulfite de Jules Chauvet (notre maître à tous ) et de Marcel Lapierre qui nous ont convaincu que les vins sans sulfite avaient une autre dimension. Donc Jean-Pierre parlait de Vin naturel en 1986 et c’est en 1989 qu’il a crée son bar à vins ou il vendait des vins naturels.
To translated: The term was used but a group of passionates wine lovers who created wine bars in Paris from 1986. Marcel Lapierre had convinced us that wines without sulfur had a different dimension. So Pierre talked about the wines since 1986 and started to sell natural wines in his wine bar in 1989.
So the wine bar peeps used it, but it was just code for nothing added to a wine, including sulfur. When the association started, the term was more formalized.
Back at the beginning of all of this, a friend took me to his friend's cooking school late night gathering. It was past midnight and they were a cocktail swilling smart set. I tried whatever was going around in the martini glass but it was too sweet--strange for a country were sweet is a rare event.
Shortly after, one of the school's partners offered me a glass of wine and hesitantly I said "Sure."
It was deadened, undrinkable boxed Provençal rose. "It's cheap and it's good," he said. It might have been cheap, but good was overstating its charms.
Then he told me how he was studying for the second round of the WSET and was giving his own wine classes at his school.
"Bio wine is bullshit," he said. "Too expensive."
There are some battles one takes on and there are others that I simply take to the blog. Here is a sophisticated school that prides itself on the ingredient. One of the partners is a wine expert giving food and wine pairing classes, dislikes his local wines with skin contact or 'naturalness' but will use Niki Antadze's rare wines because he is a friend. As Georgia moves forward with it's remarkable wines, in what might well be a government supported natural wine initiative--really showing up the rest of the wine world--they will have to deal with experts who can't understand having the same attitude towards wine as their food.
I didn't engage with him I wished him luck on Georgian wine and food pairing. Which by the way, is a cinch. Just drink and eat. Simple.
Once upon a time there was a sommelier who worked in Hollywood. I was scouting stories for The Hollywood Reporter, for a deep throat-like column, dishing on what people drank, but all anonymous. The column never materialized, but I loved this one young wine geek's particular story and so here you go.
There are all sorts of people who come in here and it’s hard to sell a wine under 14% alcohol. The people who are creative, the true talent, not the producers, they are incredibly fun to talk to. Like even though Bruce Willis wanted a cabernet, we talked about it. Like Gwyneth Paltrow? When I brought out the Bermejos from the Canary Islands she was like, Oh, I love Lanzarotte. My Nana is from there.
Other people? They are trying to seem important and they’re the ones who don’t talk and treat you like the help.
But one of the most interesting evenings I had on the floor was when the rapper Lil Wayne came in with a few friends.
This was a very funny situation.
He frequently stays at the hotel and his tour bus packed out back. He dressed like a skater with skinny pants and Vans, dreads pulled back in a hoodie. Our wine list was as large as an eagles wine spread. It really is a list that you need help with, and that’s what we’re there for. He was flpiping through very carefully, literally, he read it from cover to cover. I went over and asked, and can I help you?
And he said no. Not really.
Then he pointed to the last wine on the list and said, I want this 1902 Verdelho.
Ok. I’l be right back.
It was the D'Oliveiras.
I brought the bottle over and I showed it to him, had he had it before.
Do you know anything about it?
Well, he said, it’s pretty old.
And I asked, are you familiar with the term borracho? I told him that for many Spanish speakers it means drunk but it is the kind of old wine making on the highland of Madeira, where the farmers used to press the wine in the field old goat skins.
Ah that’s interesting, he said.
Meanwhile he’s with three other people who couldn’t give a shit. They were all texting, completely ambivalent to time and space and place and not drinking anything, not ever water, and space but Lil Wayne? He was very present.
I decanted the bottle and realized he ordered it all for himself and while he waited for me to finish, he had a cocktail. It was a Halle Berry, a vodka, with jalapeno infused blackberry juice. He told me it was the closest thing he's had to a Purple Drink (Robitussin + grape Kool-Aid).
I found this quite funny, there’s a whole doc done on it.
To go with the madeira he also ordered a cotton Candy Foie Gras (a torchon cube of foie is rolled in corn nuts and dipped into a cotton candy machine so a shroud covers it and it’s served on a long stick, and drank down the $900 a bottle of 1902 down in 22 minutes. He even left a little for me.
What I find endearing is that the liver dish he chose and Madeira was obviously a brilliant pairing. And that Verdelho is one of the most dynamic complex wines I ever tasted-- so incredibly full of flavor at the same time, a prevalent sweetness, and people in our current era they don’t drink sweet, because of the stigma. But, here’s a guy, a progenitor of all kinds of social value and he is the only human being who I sat in front of who I talked wine at the table, who bought a bottle of sweet wine!
He drank one one of the most fascinating creatures on the list. Whether or not he appreciated it he did it carefully, thoughtfully and quickly.
I snuck out of my cave on this brilliant day to taste some old Willamette Valley Eyrie Vineyards. It is always such a treat to see Jason Lett hold forth on his family's estate. For one, he is an excellent speaker, natural and unguarded, has a lovely expressive use of language. Also, the love he has for his legacy is inspiring.
I'm always touched to hear a winery stops at their max, 8000 cases. They did that in 1983 and stayed at that volume. The need not to grow? How refreshing to see someone do what they do and do it well and, be satisfied. No need for world domination.
It seems that David, his father, was obsessive about keeping a huge amount in the wine libary, at this point about 6,000 bottles deep. At one time Jason thought he'd get away and do his own thing. but in 2004 when his dad needed help for harvest he showed up and never left.
When his father got sick, he allowed Jason to find his ownway though the wines.
I'm sure there was much argument, after all, David was a difficult, loveable, hard headed guy (from my limited knowledge and tales that have been told) but one of the more touching comments was that every time Jason tastes from the library one of his father's vintages, the collaboration continues. I love this idea of conversing with ones ghostly parents through the wines they made.
Eyrie Pinot Meunier. 1993!
A twenty year old pineo meunier from two different plots, high acid, high tone and high delight. Made me feel like playing Frank Zappa. An absolutel beauty. Look for it on choice and lucky wine lists and I bet I know which ones. This wine was pure forest wild strawberries, long delight and showed no sign of tiring.
1993 Chardonnay Estate
(picked at 21 brix) elegant, floral and compelling.
1983 South Block Pinot
A dancer in disguise, etheral, skimmed the floor with elegance and endurance
1974 Pinot Noir Estate
Sorry, not available. This was the scond year the south block gave fruit and made up 45% of the cuvee. It is not only a beautiful old lady, but it is the Queen Mother in high heels. Smoky, touch of tannin and grip with strawberry pinched in wintergreen.
A treat for the mid day.
Heading out on my bike, I had a last minute lament with a colleague. We admited to major guilt. Too much writing, not enough tasting. Were we losing our edge? Were we not up on vintages and regions. Had we missed something? She went off tasting. I went back to my cubicle. Where is the balance. Take this as a warning; a tongue must be used or else it is lost. I'm on the hunt for mine.
When I first smelled the Clos Roche Blanche Cot, I was overwhelmed by its violet juice sucked through a chalk straw magnetism. It was the violet that stung me.. every time. Yes, even though I could never actually wear the scent, I'm obsessed by it.
So you see, on a morning in Barolo just a few weeks back, I was thinking about violets. It was just after Maria-Teresa Mascarello and just before Beppe Rinaldi. We were steps away at Giovanni Canonica, and sitting in his white clothed study, tasting his concentrated 2008 and I wrote a note that said: thick, crusty, violent violet. His wife had asked him about how to salt the lunch she was making for him. Then we took to see his cantina, nothing more than tarp covered winemaking equipment and then stood on the grass in his back yard in the brilliant light when I saw something flash from the spring tender green grass.
After decade of frustration, of one scent-less violet after the other, I finally found my very first viola odorata.
In my palm, it felt like the most fragile crystal and I feared my excitement would fracture its petal. The smell was a dream, not at all like the drug-like attack of gardenia or jasmine. It did not smell like old sheets or bad poetry and it did not smell like the ghastly perfume, Violetta di Parma. It was a ghost visitation and I couldn't get enough.
"James," I said to my new Australian friend, "Smell this." I hoped I was giving him a gift. I wasn't sure.
James is a chef. He is the rare kind who has an exceptional wine palate as well as for food. Over the next minutes as I went from violet to Barolo back to James, I saw him with the flower pressed to his nose, trying to crack its code. I saw he too was hooked. It was a rare moment, a first time for him too.
Over the years, when feeding my violet obsession, I'd heard all commercial attempts whether in Creme de Violettes (hello Aviation cocktail) or perfumes were synthetic. Some fragrances and taste got away with the spoof; seductive and sweet. Others like that Violetta di Parma are horrific visions of tortured flowers in the muck. Where were the real things? Will I be forced to go to Giovanni Canonica's backyard in spring for my yearly fix?
I asked the master perfumer, Mandy Aftel of Aftelier if it was true that no natural violet scent had been captured. From her atelier in California she confirmed, "Violet has resisted scent harvesting forever. I think because it has a tiny yield and from what I have heard, the extracted essence doesn't smell like violet." She added, "I have never been able to find a natural one. "
And the world weeps.
But Mandy, master blender of natural and ephemeral essences, is on the hunt. If anyone can conjure a captured memory as beautiful as what I smelled on that Saturday nebbiolo filled morning, she's the one.
The day went on to more magic, filled with old men with bad teeth, a flirt and a wizard in La Morra. It was a day lavished on my favorite grape and soil mates. I was aswirl with sandlewood, tar and roses and perhaps a bit of that viola with a different kind of chalk, as the limestone in Piemonte is darker and earthier--it continued to raise goosebumps. I tried to keep the poetic perfume close to me, as if I could imprint my nostrils with its memory. What I smelled in that flower was not, I would bet, what Australian James smelled. I wanted to know what he did perceive. What did he find in its stamen, in its gentle trap door. What was so powerful to him that he too had to steal some sniffs?
If he and I tried to paint it aromatically, we would undoubtedly come up with wildly disparate water colors. Me? I would go for the pinpoint sweet, but where would I put the powder, underneath? And where would the soap be? Oh, just the lightest hint please. And how did they come up with that nasty Violetta which drove me to a nasty madness--by focusing on the soap and the powder? I am sure James would be closer to my interpretation, this you know about someone when you taste and smell side by side. This you know.
I'm back in New York. Life and death situations are building fortresses and I find myself more guarded, but yet I find myself still thinking about the flower and its layers. I see how many violet perfumes are failures in their melancholy interpretations. Without a perfumer to mess with it, relying purely on nature, the scent has complex bottom and top notes and plenty in the middle. I could see them all. The powder. The ink. The ultra-sweet candy. The almost lilac, but pinker. I smell the hope and I smell the death. I also smell one of the most appealing notes that I can ever hope to smell in a wine, that special violet juice sucked through a chalk straw.
This morning I heard the news of Pedro López de Heredia's passing. He was 85 and hadn't been well for a few years.
I met him only once but know him mostly through his daughter Maria José, and as a way of sending my condolences to her, as I know this is a huge loss, I offer an excerpt from my first book, chapter 4 entitled, Rioja Loses Its Spanish Accent.
To all of us who love Spanish wine and the new wave of them coming up, we can thank the hold outs, especially López de Heredia, who kept the flame of Rioja burning.
On the flight to Bilbao, I begged my way into a bulkhead seat. Being the kind of person brought up to feel guilt with no provo- cation, I looked uncomfortably at a long-legged football player type crammed into a tiny seat while all five feet and one hundred pounds of me luxuriated in the extra room. Once I overcame an urge to offer a seat swap, though, I indulged in a rare moment of tranquility, happy to be tiny. This trip was before liquids were banned on planes and it was still possible to sneak wine on board disguised as fruit juice in a water bottle. I had some wonderful gamay from the Loire, which I drank happily. I was just ready to reach for the Ambien when I realized my sleeping potion was in my checked luggage. At the same moment, the infant next to me started to wail. So I read through the night, including an inter- view with Pedro López de Heredia, Maria José’s father. He was quoted as saying, “If we allowed ourselves to be guided by the financial profit that drives many winemakers to use accelerating techniques during the wine making process, our product would lose their personalities.” Wow, I thought, now there’s a father for you.
We don’t get to choose our fathers, but Pedro’s passion for wine honesty and integrity is what I look for, whether choosing literature, wine, or love.
I was staggeringly tired when I landed in the spring-bright sun, and I slept soundly during the one-hour connecting flight from Bilbao to Haro, where I awoke to the sight of the old Tempranillo vines just coming to life. The fresh leaves pushing from splintery stumps looked like hands reaching for the sun. The silver-tipped Cantabrian Mountains lit up the background. The sandy soil looked like crushed coral. I felt I was standing in the basin of a drained-out sea. Perhaps that’s why I found a sea-like savory salinity in so many older Riojan wines. Haro was the town that put Rioja on the map. Problems in the French vineyards helped make the region famous. In 1849, when a powdery mildew destroyed vineyards, Bordeaux merchants crossed into Rioja and set up consultancies to help Rioja make wine suitable for the French palate. Again, in 1877, when the louse phylloxera ate up their vines’ roots, the French looked to the tempranillo-based wines of Rioja to replace their Bordeaux. So the region has a long history of French influence. The French fo- cused on Haro because it was conveniently located near both Bor- deaux and Rioja and directly linked by rail to the ocean for shipping. The town became home to several great wineries, including Muga, Cune, La Rioja Alta, and López de Heredia.
All but LdH have added the modern amenities of stainless-steel tanks, new oak, and perhaps a few more tricks as well. The other three are widely thought of as also producing some traditional wines. But, though not wildly modern in their techniques, Cune and Muga do produce some hormonal, over-the-top wines to compete in the vinos de alta expressión market. The real old-fashioned cheese—López de Heredia—stands alone.
I was signing in at the hotel when Maria José López de Heredia breezed in to fetch me for lunch. She was ablaze in canary colors: gold eye shadow, lemon-yellow silk scarf trailing behind her Isadora Duncan–style, buttery-looking boots, and a tan cor- duroy skirt. “Ahlyce!” she cried. “Eeet’s goude to zee you ah- gayn! Look at this weather! Eeez gorgeous, no?” She summoned me in her raspy, chirpy voice. “Queeck, we have to run for lunch.”
There was a magical, elfin quality to her. If I didn’t see the stray silver strand in her head of glossy black hair, I would swear she was sixteen. She was so incredibly cute that I wanted to pinch her cheek, pick her up, and put her in my pocket. I could easily imagine her as a chatterbox child who never stopped to inhale. She was so perky that she woke me right up from my jet-lagged stupor. We ran, sprinted, dashed for the restaurant with such urgency that our lunch might have been the reason that I’d crossed the Atlantic. At home, I hate lunch. I never like taking the time, or spending the calories, and if wine is involved—an occupational hazard—I can never go back to work without a nap. But lunch is an important part of European life, and in Spain it is absolutely sacred. There was no way to avoid it.
We slid into a tapas place, Altamauri Restaurante, just seconds before closing time. The owner turned ashen when he found out I didn’t eat meat. In a country where the pig is considered a vegetable, this is problematic. These are the times I need my pig-loving friend Skinny. Her passion for pork is so attention getting that people don’t no- tice I’m pushing the food around on my plate, reaching for the cheese instead. Sweating nervously into his huge mustache, the chef murmured an unconvincing, “No problem,” and disappeared into his kitchen. Maria José ordered wine while I noted two women on the stools to our left lighting up cigarettes in front of the no smoking sign. The chef returned, proudly bearing way too many plates of tapas, in hormonal proportions. These are not the dainty tapas of Barcelona, these are the huge, pinxto-sized plates of the Basque. The minestra—overcooked vegetable stew— had some ham in it (remember, pig is a vegetable), but there was also a salad and a battered piece of Swiss chard draped with a thick potato slice. I was happy to trust that this food was far from avant- garde, that there were no fish scales or eyes in anything. Maria José tittered about me eating like a bird while she packed away lunch with gusto. If I ate like she did, I would turn into a cow, but she, in constant motion, must have the metabolism of a hum- mingbird. No matter: The star of the show was the 1997 white from her Gravonia vineyard. We had no trouble polishing it off and wanting more, even if there was no nap in my future.
Trained as a winemaker, Maria José is her family’s charismatic ambassador to the world. I don’t understand how she remains single. How could a woman prone to saying things like, “After a hailstorm, when vines are damaged, you mourn for your vines as if they were children” and “If you have this relationship to the earth, you make a very different wine” not have a trail of suitors? She must. Suitors, however, would have to compete with the other loves in her life, like her father, Pedro, and the family wine. “My father wanted me to study chemistry,” she told me. “That was a big fight in the family, because my grandfather yelled, ‘She’ll learn how to make wines with no grapes!’ I need chemistry. I need to know what to do if something should go wrong. But in modern wine school, when everything is right you are taught it is wrong!” She went on to tell me that any time the malolactic fermentation commences before alcoholic (the reverse order of things, but often a result of the years weather patterns), “A UC Davis grad- uate would drop dead on the spot.” Another lesson she didn’t lis- ten to at school was to plant clones instead of replanting from their own cuttings, known in French as selection massale. The sup- posedly virus-free clones are developed in the lab and raised in the sterile environment of a nursery. They can never produce grapes with the complexity that vineyard selection can. Bred for certain flavors, bred to produce grapes that are more precocious than those grown under selection massale, they are viewed as an eco- nomic boon and a safer choice. I often get press releases in which a winery proclaims the careful selection of clones for their vineyard, but Maria José says, “We will never use them. You need three hundred clones from a nursery to give the complexity of one real vine.”
“I met Mr. Parker once,” she volunteered. “When I told Pedro,” she said, referring to her father, “that I was going to have lunch with him, he told me I could only go if he promised not to write about the wine. Pedro explained, ‘Because if he writes about our wines, we won’t have any to sell!’”
She found Parker charming. “I have no problem with him,” she said. “He loves our wine.”
I wasn’t going to be the one to break it to her that she and her padre were delusional. Parker told me that Rioja is overrated and, as far as the LdH white Rioja is concerned, “I hate those wines. I won’t review them because I don’t need any more enemies.” He likes the reds enough but, he said, “I like their neighbor, La Rioja Alta, better.”