In February of 2014, I traveled to Australia for the natural wine fair, Rootstock (next one is August 2015). Then I went off to see what I could drink. Never did I think I would find some gamay from the older generation that sung and a whole lot of chirping was going on from the newer. Here's an snippet.
The morning wine writer and ukulele-meister Max Allen and I tanked up on flat whites and headed out of Melbourne, the bush fires kept the Victoria air smelling like barbeque. Our first visit was Bindi (conventional but snappy and sexy pinot and chardonnay). Then we hit the biodynamic and dry farming advocates, Jasper Hill and Castagna (“I make syrah not shiraz.”).
Finally in the late day, as the light started to turn blue, we drove the twenty minutes or so from Castagna to Barry Morey’s backyard to discover the wines he makes under the Sorrenberg label.
His sleepy neighborhood was all about bleached picket fences and scrubby rolling hills. I slammed the car door, the cool white cocktatoos, strung white lanterns in the trees, barely reacted. Barry came towards us. A friendly man with a bent posture, he reminded me of a character out of the Wind in the Willows. The man was humble, or was that merely from years of bending over the vines? We piled into his truck to head just up the road a bit to his vines. “I don’t do much to make wine,” he said in a way that registered with authenticity. In that moment I understood that Barry was incapable of producing any kind of wine other than an honest one.
There is rapid wine change coming on in Australia. And to read the rest of the article and the rest of the rest...please subscribe!