"Will pineau d'aunis be allowed the Touraine appellation comes 2016?" asked my friend in California who was trying to interpret the new laws.
"Nope," I said.
"So strange," she said, "that the AOC can protect and do the opposite simultaneously."
The Appellation system of France was born in 1935, to try to preserve wine's integrity. They've done some good such as organizing the complex system, giving credence to areas that came up in quality but they've made huge booboos. Some of them? Banishing grapes like aligoté and gamay from great terroir in Burgundy.
Oh, you say, what was a mistake about that? Look what they did? Everyone knows about Burgundy being Chardonnay and Pinot Noir? If you tasted what I tasted in Corton, you'd know what you missed. And really, is Burgundy really so popular because people can guess the varietal correctly or is it the place?
And once again, proving that no one learns from the mistakes of the past they are trying to dumb down the wines of the Loire mostly for people who won't spend more than $8 anyway. They are going for the broadest common denominator.
As of 2016, the new white of Touraine is sauvignon blanc--the only white wine that can get the appellation. Trust me on this, despirte the success of Burgundy, the Touraine is not going to replace Sancerre any time soon. It will not be known for $40 sauvignong blanc. This is the law that inspired M. Puzelat who makes beautiful menu pineau to say, "I'm getting ready to be a table wine maker." Many of his wines will now be made from forbidden grapes in his area so he will have to label them Vin de France. VdF is the appellation with the most freedom in the bottle and the least information on the label--because you want a bottle just to drink--here you go. So how will the drinker know that a VdF is not just a thermovinfied creature but one with a soul and a place? They will have to do their research. f
Huff....As if place didn't matter.
Another casualty for the wine world will be the loss of pineau d'aunis. Yes, friends, our gorgeous, peppery, velvety and seductive pineau d'aunis. The wine that Anthony Wilson created a song for. The wine, as in the beauties that came from Clos Roche Blanche will still be made but will be labeled Vin de France.
Pineau d' will allowed as a rosé, but only as a blend. CRB pineau d' rosé? Bye Bye appellation.
So, in summation:
The INAO says for the regions of Indre-et-Loire, Loir-et-Cher
En effet pour l'AOC Touraine blanc, il n'y aura plus que le Sauvignon blanc.
Pour les rouges :
- AOC Touraine Gamay (100% gamay)
- AOC Touraine rouge : assemblage cabernet, cot, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, gamay.
- AOC Touraine rosé : cabernet franc, cab sauvignon, cot, gamay, grolleau pineau d'aunis, pinot gris, pinot noir