Look West, Young Vintner
Jul 30, 2012--Alice Feiring
Burgundy vineyard land costs an average of $1 million an acre. It gives birth to wines that the world lusts for. And so the Côte d’Or, the stretch of land that starts at Dijon and heads south for 56 kilometers, is congested with vineyards. Land for sale is rare. The hum of the tractor replaces the sounds of birds, and the roads are riddled with wine tourists paying homage to their favorite vineyards, like Richebourg or La Tâche.
The desire for Burgundian pinot noir and chardonnay is so fierce that fraud is rampant. Case in point: in early June, Labouré-Roi was brought up on charges of putting non-Burgundy wines into their Burgundy bottles. (The case is still pending, but the company has said that it has since corrected any “errors.”)