"Wine according to Alice," and it's the Jura!
What could be more timely or trendy. But wait! It's not all periwinkles and shell and smoke and mirrors. There is real substance in this fierce, independent region. Come drink, sip,learn, enjoy, things with voile, wines without. As usual we will taste blind, so we can then see. (There is a waiting list.)
Sunday April 29th.
Here's our program.
The lovely wines or the Jura----place or method? Soil: Marl, limestone, shell and salt! (Personally, I think that the significant salt deposit in the area is a strong influence on the wines.)
+2010 J. F. Ganevat J’en Veux (Blend) $40
+2010 Nicole Deriaux (Poulsard) $28.
+2009 Chais Vieux Bourg -- Ludwig Bindernagle (Poulsard) $28.00
+2009 J. Puffeney Cuvee Les Betangeres (Trousseau) $32.99
+2010 Michel Gahier Les Grands Vergers (Trousseau) $34.99
+2008 Philippe Bornard ‘Le Ginglet’ (Trousseau) $29
+ 2006 J. F. Ganevat Cuvée de Garde (50/50 Chardonnay & Savagnin) $45
+ 2006 J. Puffeney (Sagavnin) $30
+ 2005 Bourdy (Chardonnay) $30
+ NV Mystery Wine under flor (Mendall 5 anys 1 dia) = $25
+ 2002 Domaine de la Tournelle "Vin Jaune" (620ml) $60
In the end, the drinking was good.
All of the wines were made with no topping off (not sure about the Bourdy though). As a result the tastes are more nutty than fruity and some were just not warming to the oxidative qualities, you really do have to love sherry to love the wines, but for me, the wines were a gateway TO sherry. The Mendall lacked the intensity of the others but as a drink proved extremely enjoyable and the price point was friendlier. The Cuvee de Garde, was strong on the iodine. Puffeney had higher volatility. The star of the show for me was the Vin Jaune. Extremely vital. Perhaps easier to drink than the Cuvée de Garde, it had a sultry juiciness and incredibly balance.
One great question that came up was why the intensity of the wines with the low alcohol? When talking the non-topped off wines, rarely does anyone ever mention the concentration through natural evaporation, but that is what happens. So the wines become more dense and leggy while remaining low in alcohol.
The reds? These are always more earth and savory than fruit, and I think that is exactly why they are so refreshing at this moment. The Deraiux wine, a red from white region, proved true to type--a lighter style, easy drinker with some earth. Bindernagel was delicious, though the first bottle was corked. As a 2009 it was very easy to spot in a blot tasting. Puffeney split the group. Gahier won over the long haul with a meatyness and cheery acidity, in a few hours a celery root aroma came forward, I mean this in the best of ways. The Bornard needed about 5 hours to reveal it's nature (a good one) and the J'en Veux was very gassy and needed a good burping, but going on the fermentation route, it was a bit sauerkrauty.
The pricing of the wines are a little disturbing. While the crémant from the area tend to hover around $20, delicious and are bargains, these reds should be under $25. $35 for the Gahier is problematic. The J'en Veux is even more problematic and I'm not sure I can recommend this particular one unless you've deep pockets and want to experience what a superstar from the Jura tastes like. Under which conditions do we dig into the pockets? The wines are all terrific, but let your pocketbook be your guide.