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12/27/2011

Comments

Awaldstein

Really nice post Alice.

The culture, values and tastes of the world are changing.

This is indeed a ground up revolution of taste and health. The market,as in the broad-based consumers, have spoken.

In NYC,the corner has certainly turned.

I walk by Chambers Street Wines daily and almost daily, I pick up another treasure to sip.

Family dinner the other day at Balaboosta with an all natural (and really great) wine list. Business lunch at the Odeon with a great bottle of Trousseau from the Jura on the list. Lunch at an all organic restaurant in the village with a sizable, mostly European certified organic wine list.

There are those who close their eyes and see everything as it was yesterday.

There are those who demand change to meet their needs and beliefs.

Natural wine movement. It's a ground up, consumer and producer reality.

Lucky us to be here enjoying it.

Wineshlub.blogspot.com

AS any economist can tell you, everything happens on the margin. Are there still plenty of people buying high octane spoof juice? Of course. But the market has peaked. If you doubt that, all you need to do is look at the flash sites, where the vast majority of offerings are high points hedonist dreams. Look no further than WTSO, which seems to offer wines made by Philippe Cambie ("the man with the Midas touch") at least every other day. And I don't know how many times I've read copy that accompanies offerings of 15+% ABV wines aged in 40% new oak (down from 80% a year ago) that stresses the winemaker's commitment to terroir and sustainable methods. So yes, I think that the so-called "Natural Wine Movement", which is about as cohesive a force as the "Occupy" movement, is having a major effect, and in a similar manner.

One interesting little factoid. Three years ago my daughter spent a college year as an exchange student in England and joined the wine club. She got to sit through a presentation from a Gallo rep who demonstrated, complete with satellite maps, his company's commitment to terroir. Even then the tide was turning...

Amy Atwood

Great points Alice. Yes, clearly the natural wine movement's influence is far-reaching. One can tell from all the rumblings coming from conventional producers now, who are being questioned about their farming and yeast practices. I have heard them speak, many are annoyed that these questions are now being asked. This shift in attitude is mostly due to consumers and trade learning that there is another path, one not strewn with additives, chemicals or 'paint by numbers' winemaking. And just as Alice predicted, we are already starting to see the big wine companies spin off their own 'natural' selections. We, the lovers of natural wine are truly the 1% of the wine world, but the 99% is changing because of us. Cheers, Amy

Sharonwine.blogspot.com

"By the way, on a non-natural wine note. Had the NV Bereche et Fils Extra Brut Reserve, it was just gorgeous."

Bérèche is very much natural wine. As Peter Liem notes: "Bérèche completely stopped using chemical herbicides in 2004 and has planted cover crops in all of the vineyards, and since 2007 a portion of the vineyard is being converted to biodynamics."

Raphaël is also experimenting with using natural yeasts not only for the first fermentation but for the second one, which I think is a risky and exciting (and very natural, of course) tack.

Alicefeiring

Good to know, and when those experiments get into the bottle will be curious to see the difference.

Sharonwine.blogspot.com

He's only done 500 of the 2nd fermentation, but he uses wild yeasts for the first.

It is also interesting to taste the difference as he ages them under cork instead of crown cap before disgorgement. Really nuanced.

Alicefeiring

All of his champagne done under cork?
The first time I had his champagne was last year. Loved it.
Have you had any of this duo-naturale ferments?

WineNotice

A gorgeous read on the state of natural wine.

Sarah May

Thank you for this post, Alice. It is great to see a person who has a passion for REAL qwines who also wants to share it with the world. how many people I know who may have been earlier want their kudos for being their first? I think it is great that more and more people are getting into natural wines. heck until I read your book I had no idea but realized that the wines I like were in fact natural wines.
Upcoming in Rome is the 2 day Vini Naturali event. It is a madhouse, but there are great producers.

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I'm hunting the Leon Trotskys, the Philip Roths, the Chaucers and the Edith Whartons of the wine world. I want them natural and most of all, I want them to speak the truth even if we argue. With this messiah thing going on, I'm trying to swell the ranks of those who crave the differences in each vintage, celebrate nuance and desire wines that make them think, laugh, and feel. Welcome.
And, if you'd like a signed copy of either THE BATTLE FOR WINE AND LOVE OR HOW I SAVED THE WORLD FROM PARKERIZATION or NAKED WINE, feel free to contact me directly.