Our friend, the jovial, kind, generous and maker of some of the most delicious grolleau, gamay and cabernet franc near Anjou, Olivier Cousin is in trouble with the law. I've been trying to put together the arc here on what is going on. Olivier has sent me various court documents, and it's not been easy.
His most recent crime is his engaging sense of humor. On a box of his wine he plunked "Appellation Olivier Cousin" (AOC), that got the AOC's attention but what really sunk him was making a Vin de Table where he is not allowed to place his place (Anjou) nor state the grape. His wine is Anjou pur Breton, the wonderful Cabernet Franc. Breton is the old name for CF, uh oh.
It seems as InterLoire has been after him for a while. Olivier has sent along a dozen documents, in the conclusion, I do see that InterLoire has been trying to collect dues for an organization he wanted no part of, and the AOC is just the next excuse to bring him in. The InterLoire seems to have had a devastating effect on the actual appellation, doing little to promote organic viticulture (did you know it was 'impossible' in Sancerre?), they have brought on consultants to help their winemakers make their sauvignon blanc more like New Zealand, and basically, when I've bumped into journalists on press trips, they have to 'sneak' out to visit non-industrial winemakers. In other words, InterLoire does little to raise quality in the area and might just be doing their part to destroy it.
This is a translation of the 'conclusion' of a recent cort document from InterLoire to Olivier.
Olivier COUSIN winemaker since 1986 is in the Angevin vineyards. since the year 1998, as many wineries of Anjou and Saumur, he was part of an association "Winegrowers SOLIDARITY" who opposed the compulsory levy of contributions by CIVAS (Interprofessional Committee for Wine Anjou and Saumur, created by the Act of 1952), and oppose today INTERLOIRE association, governed by the Act of 1901, which absorbed the CIVAS in 2000, also the Interprofessional Committee for Wine of designation of origin of Touraine and the Loire Valley HEART (CIVTL) on that date, and most recently in 2006, the Interprofessional Committee for Wine of Nantes (CIVN) INTERLOIRE is now a huge structure, abasin committee for the vineyards of the Loire Valley...
Olivier wrote that he's not surprised by the latest action. In a sense, he's been waiting for it. However, this is costing a great deal of money to defend his very fine name. If he loses his appeal this could run in the millions for damages. One can hope that this is a test case that will ultimately establish some good.
The French journalist (closely associated with vin naturals) Sylvie Augereau has been circulating a letter to gather names in support. If you'd like to add yours, visit her site Glougueule and put your name in her comments section on her blog post about Olivier.
The letter is below, roughly translated:
We, winemakers, journalists, wine merchants, importers, are writing to support Olivier Cousin. We're appalled at the accusation that his Appellation Olivier Cousin is of any harm to the appellation.Olivier embodies one of the most beautiful images Angevin. He cultivates with respect to the soil. The wine is made without any interference. Olivier is one of the main players in the revival of the vineyard. Finally, he is one of the reasons the horse is back in the vineyard around the Loire.
We, winemakers, journalists, wine merchants, importers, to bring our solidairity for Olivier Cousin and denounce the persecution of which he is subject.
And today, I received this email from Olivier where he voices his frustration. I'll get around to translating it, but if you can try to read and understand the French, read about how it is important to be able to put the vintage on the label something you are not allowed with the VdT appellation, which Olivier has worked in since 2005. Also of note, here he is once again defending himself, while in 2003, it was allowed to acidify and chaptalize in one year. Who is the fool? Certainly not Olivier and his compatriots.
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Ben voila pourquoi je suis contrôle par la répression des fraudes et de la concurrence .
Cela fait 3 fois depuis 1994 (après mes contestations contre l'inter profession et les CVO (20 ans de combat 15 ans de proces).J'ai perdu hier mon compte a été bloqué par huissier.
Je suis pourtant un habitué des contrôles tous les ans par qualité france et Demeter pour l'agriculture biologique et biodynamique par l'INAO quand je produisais du vin AOC.
Je me souviens que quand j’étais a l’école de viticulture a Angouleme en 1980 ,le prof m'a demandé si nous produisons des AOC ,Je lui ai dit je ne sais pas, je rentre ce week end je demanderais a mon grand pére.Chez nous c'est sure on fait du vin d'Anjou.
Maintenant,je fais du vin de table en ANJOU, ,region viticole toujours tres réputé et envié nous redoutons toujours la contre façon.
J aurais aimé continuer a faire des AOC comme mon grand pére,mais la barre est haute maintenant,mais je n'ai pas les moyen financier ni intellectuel ,il faut produire au moins 50 hl par hectare il faut battre le raisin avec des machines ,sulfiter levurer chaptaliser bacteriser sulfiter ensymer filtrer,trop d'investissement et de technique.
Nous sommes resté a la vieille méthode ,on vendanges a la main 35 hl par hectare sans sucre sans levure ,comme des paysans, on fait du vin comme du pain c'est avant tout un aliment,comme dans le temps avant les AOC.
cela fait 6300 ans que l'homme fait du vin!
Moi j'ai une clientèle qui aime mon vin de table,mais il veut savoir le cépage la region le millesime (toujours unique en vin naturel)(mon grand père me disait "on millesime l'année ou le vin c'est fait naturellement:cadeau de la nature,y en a eu!).C'est pourquoi j'indiquais sur mes bouteilles, ces informations sont importantes pour comprendre le produit.
Ici je fais vivre une équipe de cultivateurs vendangeurs buveurs sans TVA(vente a l'export) et ni subvention, juste des charges sociales par solidarité ,on MSA
C'est vrai le vin de table n'a pas de terroir:ici je cultive les vignes de ma grand mère,qui lui vienne de son père, qui les a eu de son père ,et de son père ,et de son père,des vignes qui on toujours été sur les coteaux du layon a Martigné Briand;Je les cultive sans nuire aux hommes ni a la terre,et je ne supporte pas que mon vin soit réduit a" vin de table français issus de raisins de l'agriculture biodynamique,vin naturel sans manipulation ,produit par o cousin a F49540" et en plus il doit nuire aux femmes enceintes!
Non et non on doit tout savoir comme n'importe quel produit alimentaire,(OGM sucre levure bactérie sorbate etc)
"Bonum vinum laetificat cor hominis"
Tout cela est arrivé il y a très peu de temps en Anjou grâce a des militaire et politique en mal de pouvoir,vigneron pour la solde président de tout ce qui bouge (j'en connais un qui a eu 13 casquettes) eh ben on est pas aidé ,ils ont réduit la viticulture angevine a des exploitations agricoles a coup de roundup ,d'engrais et de machine a battre la vignes.
Avant en 1980 nous étions 120 vignerons 800 vendangeurs 5 bistrots 800 hectares de vignes a Martigné Briand.
Maintenant nous sommes 40 exploitants agricoles 2 cultivateurs 40 vendangeurs 2 bistrots 850 hectares de vignes à Martigné pas briand!
Avant on pouvait se laver dans la rivière Layon,maintenant il faut se laver si on tombe dedans.(la rivière la plus pollué du Maine et Loire.)
En 2003 le comble arriva,l'autorisation de chaptaliser et d'acidifier les vin d'appellation!!!!
En 2005 je n'ai plus produit de vin AOC.
He's making a mockery of a sham. He must be stopped!
Posted by: LCFwino | 10/03/2011 at 02:06 PM
Thanks for your support ! you can all come and sign the letter on line here :
http://www.glougueule.fr/2011/10/tous-cousin/
Posted by: Maison Cousin | 10/05/2011 at 01:42 PM
Thanks for this great post Alice. Here's my take on this outrageous situation: http://www.winewithchristina.co.uk/index.php/tag/olivier-cousin/ (with a link to your post!)
Best, Christina
Posted by: Christina Pickard | 10/10/2011 at 07:30 AM