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Jonathan Webster

I love Joly, bah to the naysayers.

I say keep storing your wines as you have been. I have a number of Chenins and Rieslings from the late 90's early 00's and they weather being stored in my closet where is gets up to the high 70's in the early summer, beautifully. Might they advance in age a little quicker due to the temp? maybe? probably? so what. The '02 Joly was an object lesson in "it doesn't really matter".

Vibrations? Someone sounds like a nervous nelly to me.

Alex Halberstadt

Jonathan Webster—I may be nelly, but I'm rarely nervous. I, too, was dubious about the vibration business until I opened two bottles—a Closel Savennières and a good Puligny—that I'd kept in a little wine fridge for just over a year. Both were shot—zero aroma, tasted nasty— though not in a way I'd encountered. Even the folks at Chambers Street Wines, where I took the bottles, were stumped. A few months later I heard a "champagne educator" decrying the evils of mini-fridges and their vibrations; no more than six months, he warned. EuroCave makes wine fridges with a decoupled condensers that claim to be vibration-free, but they cost a mint. The $250 Avanti that shook the Closel to death is good enough for me, as long as everything gets drunk.

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I'm hunting the Leon Trotskys, the Philip Roths, the Chaucers and the Edith Whartons of the wine world. I want them natural and most of all, I want them to speak the truth even if we argue. With this messiah thing going on, I'm trying to swell the ranks of those who crave the differences in each vintage, celebrate nuance and desire wines that make them think, laugh, and feel. Welcome.

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