A few months ago, noodling around, I came across something called Mod Gamay, made in Australia from the Chris Ringland operation. This wine, with it's bold copy and flashy visuals, seems to have been removed from the net, gave homage to 'the father of Natural Wines, Jules Chauvet.' When an obscure scientist/vigneron becomes a buzzword for marketing, you know there is a body of work in trouble. I did a little investigation and found out that while the MOD grapes are conventionally farmed from not so old fruit, and while it is naturally yeasted it is indeed acidified and I just had the feeling that Saint Jules would be rolling in his grave if he knew his names was thus invoked. The new wines, vins libre, au naturel or live or real or naked, are in the mainstream, and that means buyer beware. The rule? If there's 'natural' on the label, a knee jerk reaction is forming--to avoid. But even then, one has to be smart about what to avoid, for example, if it's the NPA, that is one to drink. You just have to learn to suss out the true ones, read between the lines. That sort of thing. Which brings me to my Google Alert and ...... Vintae! It's an art directed operation. We've seen it before. Oriel and the like. A company creates a brand. They pretend it has a person and soul. It often works, especially with two searching eyes of a handsome boy peering from the label or old, veiny, wizened hands, fresh with vineyard dirt. Two enthusiastic Perez brothers are heading up this project. I met them in 2009 when I was presenting in Rioja. They were so sweet and earnest, and why they wanted me to taste their wine, I do not know. I held my tongue until now, I didn't want to tell the world how happy they were about this yeasted commercial Moscatel that they make in Rioja. I believe they have their own DO for this which makes me wonder who their father is in bed with. I hated them, the wines, I mean. It was easy to like the young men. But the wines? The hatred reached some sweet profundity. Obviously they hit a nerve, and it wasn't pretty. Now you might love them, and that's fine, drink them, buy them, guzzle them as much as their 90 + score indicates you should, and feel guilt-free about it. But besides the wines, monolithic turn offs, the marketing with earnest men, farmers provoked a gag. Rugged hands on the label and soulful eyes, just wrenching the grapes from their stalk by sheer emotion, yes, those boys made a line of wines. And their marketing is just going to make you cry. I'm repeating myself. You get the point. So, on the WineWench.comWe have these words. ...perfectly defines an initiative that connects the oriental culture and its care of the natural world with the most ADVANCED TECHNIQUES OF BIODYNAMIC AGRICULTURE OF THE RURAL EUROPEAN ZONES. All of its wines are NATURAL, in so far as its vineyards are cultivated in a form that is completely ecological, avoiding any use of chemical or synthetic herbicides, insecticides, and fungicides. Matsu represents the ESSENCE OF NATURAL WINE, and its elaboration constitutes of a process that demands one to "wait" during the cycle that permits the achievement of its final equilibrium. I see, this is why there are those advocating a dismissal of the world 'natural.' But any word is going to be co-opted. Nothing is sacred. Anyway, have a look at the site. I'm going to drink some over-sulfured riesling right now, and I'm going to enjoy it too. You see? I am open-minded.