I broke down. It's been a hell of a day writing a story I DO NOT WANT TO WRITE. In fact I tried to convince my editor, "Please, kill the story!" No such luck. So I gave in and pulled out the bottle in the fridge the ringletted wine importer Jenny Lefcourt brought over last night. La Boheme, a declassified muscadet from Marc Pesnot. 2008. Perfect for this weather. A hint of pineapple on the nose that melts to stone. Then I turned over the label. Who needs a definition for the category of wines so far known as Natural Wine when you have this? Brilliant. The story is still there. Staring at me like a pit bull ready to tear my brain out, but at least there is melon, and hope. Maybe.