Eric Texier, master genius and all round great guy, is one of the best treats for me at the Dressner tasting--especially the conversations @ Ten Bells in the evening.
The night was getting late, two Italians super star winemakers, one north and one south were eagerly soul searching each other's mouths at the west side of the bar, ( Rene Barbier & Sara Perez, move over) while I wrenched my eyes so I could talk sulfur and carbonic maceration with Texier. Damn, I admit, it was almost as exciting. (It wasn't that I'm such a voyeur, but this could be the beginning of a new natural wine dynasty!)
There will be more coming on this (not Them but This) when I go to visit Eric in June. I'll tape him and talk and get to the botton of the 'sameness' of the carbonic effect has been something I've been chewing over for years now. The technique can make a nice vin de soif, but it seems so often to reduce expression of terroir.
According to Eric there is a connection between sulfur and the use of the carbonic (methode Chauvet) and it's effect on acidity, pH and stability and instability, and all I can say is watch this space for more. I'm no scientist but I just wonder about carbonic maceration's effect on natural occurring sulfur.
Big Sulfur Bomb Alert!
Eric leaned in closer across the narrow 10 Bells table and told me that he's been obsessively testing supposedly unsulfured wines. His finding? Many, including some of the noted 'hard core' actually are not unsulfured. The disclosure in our world is on the magnitude of Enron. This is a little unsettling because some of the names he dropped seemed so unstable, why else if not unsulfured. And that loose puppy-breath type of reduction?
According to Eric, which one was unsulfured? Truly?
"Maule," Eric said.
And I have another one! Domaine Andre et Mireille (Stephane Tissot) Sans Soufre.
(stay tuned for the S02 adventures)
Big Sulfur Bomb Alert!
Eric leaned in closer across the narrow 10 Bells table and told me that he's been obsessively testing supposedly unsulfured wines. His finding? Many, including some of the noted 'hard core' actually are not unsulfured. The disclosure in our world is on the magnitude of Enron. This is a little unsettling because some of the names he dropped seemed so unstable, why else if not unsulfured. And that loose puppy-breath type of reduction?
According to Eric, which one was unsulfured? Truly?
"Maule," Eric said.
And I have another one! Domaine Andre et Mireille (Stephane Tissot) Sans Soufre.
(stay tuned for the S02 adventures)
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