The Feiring Line

Ask Alice Project: Q #11. White Wine Tasting

The Burgundy requester snuck in another question. Alice- I'll like to stage a wine tasting. Maybe 6 bottles for a holiday get together with dear friends -- whites from Loire (Huet is a very happy discovery) or Jura. Sweet wines are okay, and if you think I should have a few reds I trust your judgment. ++ I have to give you the capsule version here because Jeffrey and I had MANY back and forths we came to the Jura, where he was really heading. We narrowed it to wines from the Jura: Savagnin vs. Chardonnay with a few Vin Jaune in there as well. That said, I gave him my list of favorite producers and the actual selections? He's on his own. Domaine de la Tournelle (Astor?) Anne et Phillipe Bornard (Astor has a few) Overnoy/Houillon (Astor) Ganevat (Chambers) Montbourgeau (Chambers) Puffeney (Chambers) Domaine Jean Bourdy (might check with the Garagiste, fab vin jaune) For me, not in the same category as the above, but still quite Domaine Berthet-Bondet. (look for it on wine-searcher.com)

Intermission: The Cold War and Natural Wine

Bert Celce has an excellent new post on a debate between the French Parker, Michel Bettane and one of the old guard vin naturel folk, Marcel Richaud. I've been struggling to understand the French recording but Celce did a lovely interpolation for us. Give it a read. Bettane has been quite vocal over the past few years about the dangers of natural winemaking. He denies the category and seems to fear it. You can read the L'express article for yourself. This is a deeply complex debate. Recently many wines made naturally and are true wines of terroir have been rejected from AOC status because judged atypical. They might not have the density or the intense artificial aromas of what is considered typical or standard. This has resulted in a slew of wines being bottled with VDP or VDT (or now called IGP) status instead of carrying the name of the town and region they are from. By opting to make wine outside of the 'standard,' these winemakers have spearheaded the debate and even a breakdown of the status quo. In other words, revolution. It's no surprise that the beginnings of natural wine as a movement is connected to soixante-huit. As with any revolution, emotions tame, hormones stop raging, the rough edges mellow and those who crash the gates and the change becomes the establishment. That might be exactly the reason people like Bettane are getting so emotional about natural wines. They are threatening their life and their pocket, because there is no doubt about it, the vin naturel is changing wine and wine thought. On the podium Bettane spouted the 'dirty hippie' rhetoric, portraying natural winemakers as the great unwashed, their wines are dirty, the wines unstable and might as well carry typhus. There is something primal in this rift. If we can solve the issues here, I swear we can achieve world peace. The way Mr. Parker is a lovely man, I hear the same thing about Mr. Bettane, as long as politics aren't discussed. Two years ago at VinExpo I attended the Bettane 'best' wine tasting. All were top rated, to my palate, fruit foward wines that held no interest and were controlled within a centimeter of their life. There were no thinkers there, they were all made by large companies or by people who had plenty of marketers and money behind them. There wasn't one exception. (I just threw out my tasting notes, so sorry. But you know, Cheval Blanc, Valandraud, etc.etc.) This fall I met Pierre Overnoy at his home in Pupillon and it was there he said to me with great and passionate gentility, "The problem with wine isn't politics, it is business."

Intermission: The Cold War and Natural Wine

Bert Celce has an excellent new post on a debate between the French Parker, Michel Bettane and one of the old guard vin naturel folk, Marcel Richaud. I've been struggling to understand the French recording but Celce did a lovely interpolation for us. Give it a read. Bettane has been quite vocal over the past few years about the dangers of natural winemaking. He denies the category and seems to fear it. You can read the L'express article for yourself. This is a deeply complex debate. Recently many wines made naturally and are true wines of terroir have been rejected from AOC status because judged atypical. They might not have the density or the intense artificial aromas of what is considered typical or standard. This has resulted in a slew of wines being bottled with VDP or VDT (or now called IGP) status instead of carrying the name of the town and region they are from. By opting to make wine outside of the 'standard,' these winemakers have spearheaded the debate and even a breakdown of the status quo. In other words, revolution. It's no surprise that the beginnings of natural wine as a movement is connected to soixante-huit. As with any revolution, emotions tame, hormones stop raging, the rough edges mellow and those who crash the gates and the change becomes the establishment. That might be exactly the reason people like Bettane are getting so emotional about natural wines. They are threatening their life and their pocket, because there is no doubt about it, the vin naturel is changing wine and wine thought. On the podium Bettane spouted the 'dirty hippie' rhetoric, portraying natural winemakers as the great unwashed, their wines are dirty, the wines unstable and might as well carry typhus. There is something primal in this rift. If we can solve the issues here, I swear we can achieve world peace. The way Mr. Parker is a lovely man, I hear the same thing about Mr. Bettane, as long as politics aren't discussed. Two years ago at VinExpo I attended the Bettane 'best' wine tasting. All were top rated, to my palate, fruit foward wines that held no interest and were controlled within a centimeter of their life. There were no thinkers there, they were all made by large companies or by people who had plenty of marketers and money behind them. There wasn't one exception. (I just threw out my tasting notes, so sorry. But you know, Cheval Blanc, Valandraud, etc.etc.) This fall I met Pierre Overnoy at his home in Pupillon and it was there he said to me with great and passionate gentility, "The problem with wine isn't politics, it is business."

Ask Alice Project: Q #10. Burgundy for Father-in-law

HI Alice, 1. Holiday gift for 80 year-old father-in-law from Montana who has begun to explore Rhone wines and discovered life beyond California. I would like to introduce him to Burgundy without breaking the bank (say under $350) -- a case of wine that could be all the same (drink over time to see things evolve -- but despite his good health, he is 80), or different bottles. I plan to pull from this same list to provide single bottles for staff at work, neighbors and myself. So many bottles so little time. But the price point was too low. I suggested he try some Cru Beaujolais, which is age worthy (more so than basic bourgogne) and can be had for that price. The answer? He loves his father-in-law and it needs to be Burgundy, so he gave me leeway to double the price. And so with about $50 a bottle, I had room to move. I am just in love with Chandon de Briaille---esp. the 2006 vintage. I think this is the cookie for a case to watch its development. I'd opt for the les des Vergelesses, 1er cru. About $50 per bottle. If you wanted to mix it up and scoot around for yourself some wines im in love iwth Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru but that's more Beaune...so why not spring for some Nuits? Domaine Bizot Vosne-Romanee 2006 (about $90 a bottle) Gorgeous Pierre & Francois Bertheau Chambolle-Musginy (about $65)

Ask Alice Project: Q #10. Burgundy for Father-in-law

HI Alice, 1. Holiday gift for 80 year-old father-in-law from Montana who has begun to explore Rhone wines and discovered life beyond California. I would like to introduce him to Burgundy without breaking the bank (say under $350) -- a case of wine that could be all the same (drink over time to see things evolve -- but despite his good health, he is 80), or different bottles. I plan to pull from this same list to provide single bottles for staff at work, neighbors and myself. So many bottles so little time. But the price point was too low. I suggested he try some Cru Beaujolais, which is age worthy (more so than basic bourgogne) and can be had for that price. The answer? He loves his father-in-law and it needs to be Burgundy, so he gave me leeway to double the price. And so with about $50 a bottle, I had room to move. I am just in love with Chandon de Briaille---esp. the 2006 vintage. I think this is the cookie for a case to watch its development. I'd opt for the les des Vergelesses, 1er cru. About $50 per bottle. If you wanted to mix it up and scoot around for yourself some wines im in love iwth Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru but that's more Beaune...so why not spring for some Nuits? Domaine Bizot Vosne-Romanee 2006 (about $90 a bottle) Gorgeous Pierre & Francois Bertheau Chambolle-Musginy (about $65)

Ask Alice Project: #9; Poland!

Alice! I will be in Poland (just outside of Krakow) for New Years. Where can I buy/drink natural wine?? Thanks! Joe! This is a trick question? Frederik will know better than I. However I saw Gulfi (not hardcore but lovely) at vinokeka. Also, about six years ago after a hard and frigid morning at Birkenau, when I could eat again, I had dinner at Hotel Copernicus, the Relais & Chateau joint and there was some Bartolo Mascarello. So, the wine bar there, while not natural, might have some good things to drink. Let me know what you find, okay? --Alice But Breaking News: This just in from Poland. Pretty exciting stuff! Andrzej wrote in response to vinosseur: Joseph, try at wina.pl, they have some natural/biodynamic/real wines, from Dario Princic, Leon Barral and some others as well. Another one, dionizos.com, is about to be reopened and you should be able to find the wines of Movia there. Both are located in Krakow. (Thank you Andrzej!)

Ask Alice Project: #9; Poland!

Alice! I will be in Poland (just outside of Krakow) for New Years. Where can I buy/drink natural wine?? Thanks! Joe! This is a trick question? Frederik will know better than I. However I saw Gulfi (not hardcore but lovely) at vinokeka. Also, about six years ago after a hard and frigid morning at Birkenau, when I could eat again, I had dinner at Hotel Copernicus, the Relais & Chateau joint and there was some Bartolo Mascarello. So, the wine bar there, while not natural, might have some good things to drink. Let me know what you find, okay? --Alice But Breaking News: This just in from Poland. Pretty exciting stuff! Andrzej wrote in response to vinosseur: Joseph, try at wina.pl, they have some natural/biodynamic/real wines, from Dario Princic, Leon Barral and some others as well. Another one, dionizos.com, is about to be reopened and you should be able to find the wines of Movia there. Both are located in Krakow. (Thank you Andrzej!)

Go Ask Alice Project: #8; Gifting Sparklers

Alice-for office gift for my staff about $25. That Cremant de jura? Of course, my editors get me for free, but since I was asked during this 'offering' I thought he qualified. The Jura we talked about was the Dom. de Montbourgeau Cremant. All chardonnay, extremely gorgeous, one hell of a bargain, and while I'm a slut for bubbles (organic & biodynamic mostly) from Champagne, this one takes no prisoners. Made by vigneron Nicole Deriaux, and this is her in her vineyard in the village of Etoile.

Go Ask Alice Project: #8; Gifting Sparklers

Alice-for office gift for my staff about $25. That Cremant de jura? Of course, my editors get me for free, but since I was asked during this 'offering' I thought he qualified. The Jura we talked about was the Dom. de Montbourgeau Cremant. All chardonnay, extremely gorgeous, one hell of a bargain, and while I'm a slut for bubbles (organic & biodynamic mostly) from Champagne, this one takes no prisoners. Made by vigneron Nicole Deriaux, and this is her in her vineyard in the village of Etoile.

Ask Alice Project: Q #7. Help near Geneva!

Dear Alice, Is the project still open? If so, here is my request: I have good friends coming from Israel who will be staying with me for the holidays so I need to stock up. The husband is a chef/former restaurant owner and would say he knows a thing or two about wine. I would really like to impress here. I need suggestions for what to serve with meals (I don't mind building the meal around the wine) and maybe a sparkler for celebrating. I live just outside of Geneva, Switzerland not too far from the french border. Budget is 15-20 euros/bottle. Here's the website of where I usually shop, but not limited to this. http://www.vinothequeduleman.com/ Thanks, Rena --- Oy Rena! We have to work with that store. I think you'll be pleased, but I'm concerned that the Israelies will be used to processed clunkers. Am hoping the class of these will trump the chunk. Let me know how it turns out! Stock up on beaujolais! These are all excellent producers and the Roillete and Desvignes are house favorites. MORGON Louis Claude Desvignes (cote de py) 2007 7.94 e FLEURIE Clos de la Roilette 2008 9.20 € FLEURIE Yvon Metras Vieilles Vignes 2007 14.21 e Burgundy FIXIN Hervelets Domaine BART 2005 20.90 e COTE DE BEAUNE Clos des topes bizot Chantal Lescure 2007 13.38 e Rhone CROZE HERMITAGE Alain GRAILLOT 2007 13.38 e VIN DE PAYS DE LA Principaute d'orange La Vieille Julienne 2006 8.19 e LIRAC Domaine de la Mordorée Dame Rousse 2007 9.20 11.00 e LOIRE: CHINON Le Clos de la Cure Charles JOGUET 2004 9.11 € 10.90 e CHINON Domaine de NOIRE Elegance 2006 7.94 € 9.50 € WHITES: BOURGOGNE Chardonnay - Domaine ROULOT 2007 14.21e CHABLIS Domaine DAUVISSAT 2007 15.05 e (Any of the Huets!) VOUVRAY SEC HAUT LIEU Domaine HUET 2007 12.54 e VOUVRAY SEC LE MONT Domaine HUET 2006 15.05e VOUVRAY SEC CLOS DU BOURG Domaine HUET 2007 14.05 e AND SPARKLING? CREMANT DU JURA BERTHET BONDET 8.78 e Let me know how they go down!--