On the way to visit Ethel for the holiday, she was in a panic. She didn't have any of her special select, Matuk Rouge, semi -sweet (natural) grape juice with 8% alcohol. So we stopped in to her favorite wine shop on Central Avenue in Cedarhurst, Chateau de Vin (that's the way they actually spell it). The man who bought the place a few years ago must have bought the old stock wine as well as there were several older vintages of Roberto Cohen imports that at first were tempting, such as the 2002 Aloxe. But at a $72 price tag, and dubious storage, I passed. But I am so curious to see what passes as a kosher burgundy. But there was also a 2002 series of Beaujolias VIllage. I slipped the neck of the Fleurie (Saveurs l'ete) through my finger. Only at the register realize the original price was $30, but mine? For the New Year? $19.99. What a sin. What a rip off. Someone should set me up in business to bring real kosher wine to the world. Decorked it in threer ragged steps. Took a sip before Ethel lit the candles. It was cooked. Fragile. Over-cropped fruit underneath it all. Grainy. I quickly oped for the unkosher Bourgeuil I had armed myself with. My orthodox Mom just had to cope.