Natural Wines: Ain't for Everyone

DBGB, the new Daniel Boulud 'gastropub' just opened around the corner from me. I had no idea it was coming. While in construction, I was so confused by it's outside design, I thought we were getting a new supermarket. Stuck into the ground floor of an apartment complex, the design choice is industrial, but to me, faux. However, the wine list selected and tuned by Colin Alveras is real. Sweet Colin, most recently, was the chef/owner of the (RIP) The Tasting Room, championed many American wines, the reason I couldn't show up happily at his restaurants. Now, he's embraced French and natural--nothing but grapes kind of wine with minimal intervention. Except for a few exceptions (such as the remarkably priced 1.2 bottle of Krug, priced at a mere $60) his list is packed with selections from Louis/Dressner, Jenny & Francois and Savio Soares. The conventional drinker might be challenged, especially if they want Big and Napa. These are the wines that burn through the lists at 10 Bells, Marlowe & Sons, made the defunct 360 and Bette destinations but at DBGB? >> I was finishing up my own 2007 Luneau Papin ($7!) when I saw a bottle of Dard & Ribo Crozes Hermitage arrive bar-side. 2007. Showing beautifully. Just as I remembered. Listen to me: that wine is one of my come to Jesus wines. I knew it wasn't corked. After all D&R use syththetic stoppers. I asked the server if her guest hated it. She said yes. Took a sip. Shook her head and said. 'I've never worked in a restaurant where so many perfectly fine wines were returned.' Curious about what others are saying, I found myself on Yelp and extracted this: <<< We also ordered two glasses of rose pinot noir - to which our waitress was like, 'GOOD CHOICE!' Our wine arrived immediately - and guess what? Both glasses were sour, like vinegar. (Which had me a little nervous that I listened to her burger recommendation.) Glasses were removed and we ordered different wine for ourselves (waitress seemed to imply it was our taste and not a bad bottle...really? why don't you try it for yourself? and isn't there someone there who's supposed to try the wines before they serve them? " This is a problem that can be solved. If I were Colin? I would create a little box for Proceed With Caution. Just warn the people. Put a skull and cross bones on it. That's all, say, 'Hey, darlin, are you up to this task? Are you man/woman enough to scale a mountain, slide down the hill on your ass, and laugh about it? Are you macho enough to say you don't know, you care, you're confused, you're scared, you hate, you love, but you feel?' Then, we want you to try these wines. OK? Well, no, that would be pretty intimidating but a---'Hey dude, this can be a scary wine. I adore it but some of the flavors in the wine might not be what you're expecting. There is no fruit. This sucker is all animal.; Poor Colin. He's dealing with a lot of people who come out for a Gimme Cherry. Gimme Fruit. Keep The Earth And Those Minerals Out of My Glass Please. Many of the patrons are not appreciative of some cinnamon scented wacky wine that is somersaulting in their mouth and playing whoopee with their gums. And unless someone is there to help them out, encourage them to step out of their comfort zone, they will keep on returning bottles. And of course he also has people like me, who view DBGB's as a safe house. 299 Bowery St (between Houston St & 1st St) (212) 933-5303 www.danielnyc.com