The Feiring Line

A Real Argentine Malbec

I haven't been able to drink Argentine wine in years. Big suprise.I know. Same old story. All of their gorgeous, exotic vines sacrificed their fruit to slavery; plunked and corseted and hormoned and frankly, down the drain. Then just as I was trying to power taste --David Bowler grabbed me and said, try this. Carmelo Patti, Mendoza. Really David. Do I have to? He was considering bringing it in. Please see what I think? Can I resist? No. And then, yes! This is the kind of malbec I used to seek out before the grape had a monkey glands transplant. Is this wine yeasted? Who knows. Probably. I don't care. The wine is terrific. 2004 Malbec was dense but not thick. Some berry but believe me, this wasn't about the fruit but the whole package. Spice market. Interesting puppy breath that I usually get on unsulfured wine and very fresh and mouthwatering. But the question is: if this guy is one of the 'most respected enologists in the country', how can he get away with such an unmodern wine as this?

Picks from J&F portfolio

Cousin Leduc Grolleau 2007 tart, gentle and edgy. Cousin Leduc Pur Breton 2006 Carnation, inhalation, lots of life and texture the VV has a berry nose and as deep as a quarry. Comptoirs de Magdala Amourvedre 2007 From young vines in Bandol, when you are in a mood for lots of silt and texture and need to shake your fist for emphasis. Domaine Deux Anes Magali in the Languedoc can do no wrong. Just buy them. Chemin de Bassac pinot 2007 THis from the Languedoc, Cotes de Thongue, doesn't have much structure but it is pretty and pleasant, medium weight and ...will fulfil a pinot craving at a great price point. It's your new party wine. Romaneaux-Destezet From the 2007 Souteronne (gamay) to the 2007 Syrah (twig and cocoa), Saint Joseph, (elegance and wisdom) ad the Sainte Epine (knock out) I rest my case. Always jumping with vitality, they refuse to stay in the glass.

Binner

Christian and Audrey Binner Everything from this Alsatian domaine is lovely.(and don't forget their 2005 Pinot) But the affordable (maybe $14-$20) 2005 Saveurs Printanieres is your spring/summer wine. Yup. One of those Alsatian blends. Glug. Glug.

Jenny & Francois

Briefly noted picks. Domaine Derain (St. Aubin, Burgundy) Love their PetNat (sparkling Aligote) and the 2006 Le Bon as well as the '06 Mercurey which was tar and marshmallow. Didier Monchovet Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire (tart, berry gamay) and a kick-ass cremant. Also do look out for their 2003 Hautes Cotes de Beaune.The year was hot, mostly made flabby wines. This one works Domaine Binner Everything from this Alsatian domaine is lovely. (Don't forget their Pinot) 2005 Saveurs Printanieres, one of those Alsatian blends, is your spring/summer wine. Cousin Leduc Pur Breton Olivier in the Anjou is someone to buy in every year. The 2006 has plenty of carnation, lots of life and texture the VV has a berry nose and is as deep as a quarry. Comptoirs de Magdala Amourvedre From young vines in Bandol. This 2007 will work when you are in a mood for lots of silt and texture and need to shake your fist (at whomever) for emphasis. Domaine Deux Anes Magali (she is in the winery, her husband Dominqueis in the vines) can do no wrong. Just buy whatever you find. Chemin de Bassac Pinot The 2007 is your new party wine. Not too much structure, but at this price point ($13?) where else are you going to get something this good in this grape? Romaneaux-Destezet Herve is a brilliant winemaker up in the Catskill-like Ardeche hills of the Northern Rhone. 2007 Souteronne (old vine N. Rhone gamay--horsey and bramble) 2007 Syrah (look for twig and cocoa), Saint Joseph, (elegance and wisdom) and the Sainte Epine (knock out from a prime vineyard in St. Joseph).... I rest my case. Herve's wines are always jumping with vitality. These wines absolutely refuse to stay in the glass.

Jenny & Francois

Briefly noted picks. Domaine Derain (St. Aubin, Burgundy) Love their PetNat (sparkling Aligote) and the 2006 Le Bon as well as the '06 Mercurey which was tar and marshmallow. Didier Monchovet Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire (tart, berry gamay) and a kick-ass cremant. Also do look out for their 2003 Hautes Cotes de Beaune.The year was hot, mostly made flabby wines. This one works Domaine Binner Everything from this Alsatian domaine is lovely. (Don't forget their Pinot) 2005 Saveurs Printanieres, one of those Alsatian blends, is your spring/summer wine. Cousin Leduc Pur Breton Olivier in the Anjou is someone to buy in every year. The 2006 has plenty of carnation, lots of life and texture the VV has a berry nose and is as deep as a quarry. Comptoirs de Magdala Amourvedre From young vines in Bandol. This 2007 will work when you are in a mood for lots of silt and texture and need to shake your fist (at whomever) for emphasis. Domaine Deux Anes Magali (she is in the winery, her husband Dominqueis in the vines) can do no wrong. Just buy whatever you find. Chemin de Bassac Pinot The 2007 is your new party wine. Not too much structure, but at this price point ($13?) where else are you going to get something this good in this grape? Romaneaux-Destezet Herve is a brilliant winemaker up in the Catskill-like Ardeche hills of the Northern Rhone. 2007 Souteronne (old vine N. Rhone gamay--horsey and bramble) 2007 Syrah (look for twig and cocoa), Saint Joseph, (elegance and wisdom) and the Sainte Epine (knock out from a prime vineyard in St. Joseph).... I rest my case. Herve's wines are always jumping with vitality. These wines absolutely refuse to stay in the glass.

Domaine Du Tunnel, Cornas

DOMAINE DU TUNNEL Maybe it's the terrific 2007 vintage but the arrow hit my heart when I tasted these at the Skurnik tasting. According to John Livingstone Learmonth's book. Stephane Roberts destems around 60%. The wine is clean, modern in that sense, and the vineyard work and the structure of the wine (without the help of new oak) comes through. St. Peray 2007 all apple and apricot. St. Joseph 2007 (around $30) muscle. tight. dark fruit and spice. ride em horsee. Cornas Ah, rusticity refined. Finesse and lively acidity. Cornas Vin Noir 2006 I dropped to my knees and prayed. Touch of mint made it way into these 100 year old vines.

Notes from the March '09 Michael Skurnik Tasting

I'm so behind, I can't catch up. So to be direct, I've been out tasting. Here's what I've liked and what I didn't like. I zoomed in an out in an hour, so was just looking for ....something. I believe it's just as useful to tell you what I don't like, so both are included. That morning there was a rumor that Cali Pino was getting better. Frankly, I think they should pull out the vines and start all over, but that is obviously an unpopular point of view. Pass the Puzelat please? Peay Vineyards:Sonoma Coast Estate, 2007 Extremely fruit forward. There was something grounding it in reality but, for those who like a sweet thing. Somoma Coast Pomarium Estate 2007 Exuberant but thankfully not cloying and somewhat unfocused, breathy finish, Failla (made by Ehren Jordan) From my notes, not bad. Marked by an orange juice quality. Occidental RIdge Vineyard 2006 has some expression. My notes were lacking, but basically I said if you like California Pinot and also my kind of wines, this will work. HIrsch Vineyard I've yet to have the wine I really liked from this vineyard, or one at least I could drink. There is plenty of power, for sure,not what I'm after though. Long painful finish. For the pinot drinker who hates Burgundy. Domaine de L'Arlot 2006 NSG 1er Cru Clos de Forests Plenty of old lady perfume here, that chanel quality I love so much in burgs. But there was no transparency and I feel the oak, but still. But still. I wouldn't kick it out of bed. Domaine Ferrando Chateauneuf du Pape 2006 Flat, dark, prune, lifeless. Instead, go for the Clos du Mont Olivet 2006 I wrote no notes, just gave it 3 *** and three !!! in my book that means, typical of the beauty chateauneuf can strut. It might be about $45 on the shelves. Domaine Arlaud Burgs Had been seeing these around, fairly priced. Not in my house though. Domaine MARC ROY ** (Never had these Burgundies before , and I really liked them, even though she has a 100% new oak regime. Still.) Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur Some very nice life, and a flash of the savory. Interesting HENRI JOUAN Chambolle-Musigny 2006 at way less than an expensive California pinot I could be drinking this lovely, femine, rose petal number instead. I seemed to like them all but the Clos St. Denis was extremely out of kilter. LOVE WINE OF THE DAY DOMAINE DU TUNNEL Maybe it's the terrific 2007 vintage but the arrow hit my heart here. According to John Livingstone Learmonth's book. Stephane Roberts destems around 60%. The wine is clean, modern in that sense, and the vineyard work and the structure of the wine (without the help of new oak) comes through. St. Peray 2007 all apple and apricot. St. Joseph 2007 muscle. tight. dark fruit and spice. ride em horsee. Cornas Ah, rusticity refined. Finesse and lively acidity. Cornas Vin Noir 2006 I dropped to my knees and prayed. Touch of mint made it way into these 100 year old vines.

Notes from the March '09 Michael Skurnik Tasting

I'm so behind, I can't catch up. So to be direct, I've been out tasting. Here's what I've liked and what I didn't like. I zoomed in an out in an hour, so was just looking for ....something. I believe it's just as useful to tell you what I don't like, so both are included. That morning there was a rumor that Cali Pino was getting better. Frankly, I think they should pull out the vines and start all over, but that is obviously an unpopular point of view. Pass the Puzelat please? Peay Vineyards:Sonoma Coast Estate, 2007 Extremely fruit forward. There was something grounding it in reality but, for those who like a sweet thing. Somoma Coast Pomarium Estate 2007 Exuberant but thankfully not cloying and somewhat unfocused, breathy finish, Failla (made by Ehren Jordan) From my notes, not bad. Marked by an orange juice quality. Occidental RIdge Vineyard 2006 has some expression. My notes were lacking, but basically I said if you like California Pinot and also my kind of wines, this will work. HIrsch Vineyard I've yet to have the wine I really liked from this vineyard, or one at least I could drink. There is plenty of power, for sure,not what I'm after though. Long painful finish. For the pinot drinker who hates Burgundy. Domaine de L'Arlot 2006 NSG 1er Cru Clos de Forests Plenty of old lady perfume here, that chanel quality I love so much in burgs. But there was no transparency and I feel the oak, but still. But still. I wouldn't kick it out of bed. Domaine Ferrando Chateauneuf du Pape 2006 Flat, dark, prune, lifeless. Instead, go for the Clos du Mont Olivet 2006 I wrote no notes, just gave it 3 *** and three !!! in my book that means, typical of the beauty chateauneuf can strut. It might be about $45 on the shelves. Domaine Arlaud Burgs Had been seeing these around, fairly priced. Not in my house though. Domaine MARC ROY ** (Never had these Burgundies before , and I really liked them, even though she has a 100% new oak regime. Still.) Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur Some very nice life, and a flash of the savory. Interesting HENRI JOUAN Chambolle-Musigny 2006 at way less than an expensive California pinot I could be drinking this lovely, femine, rose petal number instead. I seemed to like them all but the Clos St. Denis was extremely out of kilter. LOVE WINE OF THE DAY DOMAINE DU TUNNEL Maybe it's the terrific 2007 vintage but the arrow hit my heart here. According to John Livingstone Learmonth's book. Stephane Roberts destems around 60%. The wine is clean, modern in that sense, and the vineyard work and the structure of the wine (without the help of new oak) comes through. St. Peray 2007 all apple and apricot. St. Joseph 2007 muscle. tight. dark fruit and spice. ride em horsee. Cornas Ah, rusticity refined. Finesse and lively acidity. Cornas Vin Noir 2006 I dropped to my knees and prayed. Touch of mint made it way into these 100 year old vines.

A Big Week For Wine Discovery (and graft)

Diner with Randall wasn't all the graft that week. The next day I met Jose Pastor, who had just come back from Tampa after drinking a container of old wine with P****** henchman Dr. J. Miller. Jose Pastor is a dream. A sweetie. A cutie. And his wines are pretty tough as well. He is doing his best to save Spain from disappearing over into the dark side of wine. For a brief while, sitting on the stool at Solera I was happy. I was hopeful. I forgot that the print world is tanking and if I found something to write about no one could assign it. For a moment, a brief moment, the world was sane and people I was positive, would need to know about these wines. Hits? Canary Islands! He tasted me on Bodega Tajinaste, Orotava Valley of Tenerife From the the largest of the Canary Islands, this grape is Listan Negro grown in donut holes in black soiled hills. The vines are twisted. Braided. I can't figure it out. But I've got to go and see this up close and personal. Taste? It's all tank. A touch of green, yumminess to brighten the earth and dolcetto like dustiness. I have no idea where you can find it. I'm on the prowl myself. Going up to the Ribeira Sacra, tucked into the southern part of Galcia, seek out: Enologica Temera Alodio This puppy is from Mencia, and has a plunky and gorgeous nose with lemon and kirsch. And if you can find it like I did (K&L in California) a bargain at $14. Okay, it SHOULD be $9, but it's 2009, so what can we do? But the biggest what the hell, give -me-that-bottle moment came with: Primitivo Quiles 2002 Alicante Raspay Riserva Tinto Brut It's Monastrell (the Spanish Mourvedre), and definitely for those who love Lopez de Herdeia. It's a three-star old world moment with elegance and oxidation and church spice. They've got this over at Chambers Street for $23.

A Big Week For Wine Discovery (and graft)

Diner with Randall wasn't all the graft that week. The next day I met Jose Pastor, who had just come back from Tampa after drinking a container of old wine with P****** henchman Dr. J. Miller. Jose Pastor is a dream. A sweetie. A cutie. And his wines are pretty tough as well. He is doing his best to save Spain from disappearing over into the dark side of wine. For a brief while, sitting on the stool at Solera I was happy. I was hopeful. I forgot that the print world is tanking and if I found something to write about no one could assign it. For a moment, a brief moment, the world was sane and people I was positive, would need to know about these wines. Hits? Canary Islands! He tasted me on Bodega Tajinaste, Orotava Valley of Tenerife From the the largest of the Canary Islands, this grape is Listan Negro grown in donut holes in black soiled hills. The vines are twisted. Braided. I can't figure it out. But I've got to go and see this up close and personal. Taste? It's all tank. A touch of green, yumminess to brighten the earth and dolcetto like dustiness. I have no idea where you can find it. I'm on the prowl myself. Going up to the Ribeira Sacra, tucked into the southern part of Galcia, seek out: Enologica Temera Alodio This puppy is from Mencia, and has a plunky and gorgeous nose with lemon and kirsch. And if you can find it like I did (K&L in California) a bargain at $14. Okay, it SHOULD be $9, but it's 2009, so what can we do? But the biggest what the hell, give -me-that-bottle moment came with: Primitivo Quiles 2002 Alicante Raspay Riserva Tinto Brut It's Monastrell (the Spanish Mourvedre), and definitely for those who love Lopez de Herdeia. It's a three-star old world moment with elegance and oxidation and church spice. They've got this over at Chambers Street for $23.