A Real Argentine Malbec

I haven't been able to drink Argentine wine in years. Big suprise.I know. Same old story. All of their gorgeous, exotic vines sacrificed their fruit to slavery; plunked and corseted and hormoned and frankly, down the drain. Then just as I was trying to power taste --David Bowler grabbed me and said, try this. Carmelo Patti, Mendoza. Really David. Do I have to? He was considering bringing it in. Please see what I think? Can I resist? No. And then, yes! This is the kind of malbec I used to seek out before the grape had a monkey glands transplant. Is this wine yeasted? Who knows. Probably. I don't care. The wine is terrific. 2004 Malbec was dense but not thick. Some berry but believe me, this wasn't about the fruit but the whole package. Spice market. Interesting puppy breath that I usually get on unsulfured wine and very fresh and mouthwatering. But the question is: if this guy is one of the 'most respected enologists in the country', how can he get away with such an unmodern wine as this?