In December I met up with a friend at the bar at Blue Hill (off of Washington Square Park in the West Village). We were happily enjoying the comforting 2002 Cubillo Rioja from Lopez de Heredia, when a well-fed writer I knew was leaving, having just dined with a Sonoma wine produce.' "Alice is a wine writer," our mutual friend said. Then he informed Mr. Sonoma about my recent blog on making Sagrantino Kevin Kelley (I'm beginning to think everyone in the world is now named Kevin!) is the winemaker and he makes it for another Kevin---if you can believe it. The wine is a youngster: mid-weigth wine; pithy, lemony, with whifs and licks of ripe tangerine comice pear. Great now, I might want to see what this baby does in a few years. Look to Part Three for more on Lioco, its winemaker and what Alice Learned in Chardonnay School.