The Feiring Line

Abe Schoener on Temperature Control

Is Abe Schoener the most polarizing winemaker in the states? I think so. Plenty of people/drinkers (including Abe) find his un-shy wines undrinkable. But they are worth debating. And as their maker, so is he. For better or for worse, Abe is a thinker and there are few thinkers when it comes to wine these days and I'm eager to see what emerges from his chrysalis of invention. Is he experimenting? Sure. But he uses no adjuncts. He plays with natural but is so highly manipulative it is hard to call him low interventionist. Is it okay that there are fans out there who like his wines more than he does? Like Paul Grieco? Absolutely. Would I rather drink these massively alcoholic wines than, let's say, Vecina from Napa? Sure. Pass his cherry juice colored pinot grigio please, and the petite syrah has some redeaming social value. Last month, before I knew I was going to write about Abe, I knew that I had to meet him and I wasn't disappointed. I I took a series of Flips on a recent hook up in Abe's kitchen. Here he talks about his attitude on heating and cooling.

Abe Schoener on Temperature Control

Is Abe Schoener the most polarizing winemaker in the states? I think so. Plenty of people/drinkers (including Abe) find his un-shy wines undrinkable. But they are worth debating. And as their maker, so is he. For better or for worse, Abe is a thinker and there are few thinkers when it comes to wine these days and I'm eager to see what emerges from his chrysalis of invention. Is he experimenting? Sure. But he uses no adjuncts. He plays with natural but is so highly manipulative it is hard to call him low interventionist. Is it okay that there are fans out there who like his wines more than he does? Like Paul Grieco? Absolutely. Would I rather drink these massively alcoholic wines than, let's say, Vecina from Napa? Sure. Pass his cherry juice colored pinot grigio please, and the petite syrah has some redeaming social value. Last month, before I knew I was going to write about Abe, I knew that I had to meet him and I wasn't disappointed. I I took a series of Flips on a recent hook up in Abe's kitchen. Here he talks about his attitude on heating and cooling.

Salvation and the Plight of a Wine Writer

I don't go in for the what I drank last night kind of blogging but every once in a while I have to give in to the temptation. And mostly because I've been complaining about the lack of excitement in my glass. The last time I was in this situation--craving old wine--sweet and tart, Gerald Weisl of Weimax in Burlingame came to my rescue, in one of the more endearing moves of the year for me, he made a dinner party (Never did this ever happen in my life, and I've been around the block a couple of few decades). and told me the trip to Burlingame Was it ever. 1954 Tondonia? 1971 Giacomo Conterno? Gerald! And overdue but sincere and public thank you for a great evening. Then just this week, the effects wore off and I just couldn't sustain myself on memory alone. Nothing othing but older burgundy (or barolo or Cornas) would do to haul me out of the hole. As I assume we are currently experiencing not just the end of the year but the end of the world, I expected to have to make do with the few 2002 on my shelves and close my eyes and pretend. Then, it happened. A gentleman who delivered the salve to my vinous doldrums had read my book, and because in my book I talked about how blind tasting is the only way to really 'get' the wine, he decided to call my bluff. I warned him I would fail. I kept my promise. I was a disaster. The first wine, a white, remarkably fresh but older. So fresh I had to guess around 15-20 years old. I was wrong. Second guess 1983. That was right. First guess was Montrachet something or other but he certainly wouldn't have sprung Le Montrachet on me. But I found myself thinking of the 1987 I had from DRC. I couldn't possibly that lucky. But that was the only other white Burgundy that came close to this experience. So in one of those guessing the generosity of a stranger and how far they would go I decided that due to the wines masculinity it had to be Corton. Damn, wrong. It was indeed the 1983 Ramonet Montrachet. I was that lucky. Was it any good? Hah. Does a pig love a truffle? There was that unmistakeable depth of limestone, as if the limestone was swimable and I did full body pigeage in it and all of my skin's surface had the ability to taste. The freshness was a bit like salt air on the beach. Yes it had the nuts, and lemon and ginger and a touch of caramel--the only hint of its age. It was served at room temperature. And, one of my next stories is California Chardonnay? Three reds. He gave me a hint: they were from the same vintages I was stunned because #1 was young and so 'pretty' and rosy I thought, Chambolle? My reaction was we need to come back in ten years. #2 was a low sulfur wine and had 100% stems and was musky and heady and intense and a strong rider, loved it and that seemed to be at least 20 years old and Vosne-like. #3 was so aged and so much like clay slip, I suspected a cork issue but was assured the wine was what it was. It wouldn'd have surprised me if it came from the late 50's. So much for my ability to deduce. These couldn't possibly come from the same year, could they? I could get that it wasn't a ripe year. But #3 was super aged. Then the hint: Parker hated the vintage. That meant 1993. All were from the same place in Vosne-Romanee, Les Brulées. #1: Engel! ( I forgot how I used to love this producer) #2: Leroy! (transformational) #3: Meo! (huh?) I failed miserably. But the other night, failed or not, I was a viniprincess and I still can remember the taste out of the glass slipper. The moral of the story is that every wine writer needs a patron and this one is up for grabs.

Salvation and the Plight of a Wine Writer

I don't go in for the what I drank last night kind of blogging but every once in a while I have to give in to the temptation. And mostly because I've been complaining about the lack of excitement in my glass. The last time I was in this situation--craving old wine--sweet and tart, Gerald Weisl of Weimax in Burlingame came to my rescue, in one of the more endearing moves of the year for me, he made a dinner party (Never did this ever happen in my life, and I've been around the block a couple of few decades). and told me the trip to Burlingame Was it ever. 1954 Tondonia? 1971 Giacomo Conterno? Gerald! And overdue but sincere and public thank you for a great evening. Then just this week, the effects wore off and I just couldn't sustain myself on memory alone. Nothing othing but older burgundy (or barolo or Cornas) would do to haul me out of the hole. As I assume we are currently experiencing not just the end of the year but the end of the world, I expected to have to make do with the few 2002 on my shelves and close my eyes and pretend. Then, it happened. A gentleman who delivered the salve to my vinous doldrums had read my book, and because in my book I talked about how blind tasting is the only way to really 'get' the wine, he decided to call my bluff. I warned him I would fail. I kept my promise. I was a disaster. The first wine, a white, remarkably fresh but older. So fresh I had to guess around 15-20 years old. I was wrong. Second guess 1983. That was right. First guess was Montrachet something or other but he certainly wouldn't have sprung Le Montrachet on me. But I found myself thinking of the 1987 I had from DRC. I couldn't possibly that lucky. But that was the only other white Burgundy that came close to this experience. So in one of those guessing the generosity of a stranger and how far they would go I decided that due to the wines masculinity it had to be Corton. Damn, wrong. It was indeed the 1983 Ramonet Montrachet. I was that lucky. Was it any good? Hah. Does a pig love a truffle? There was that unmistakeable depth of limestone, as if the limestone was swimable and I did full body pigeage in it and all of my skin's surface had the ability to taste. The freshness was a bit like salt air on the beach. Yes it had the nuts, and lemon and ginger and a touch of caramel--the only hint of its age. It was served at room temperature. And, one of my next stories is California Chardonnay? Three reds. He gave me a hint: they were from the same vintages I was stunned because #1 was young and so 'pretty' and rosy I thought, Chambolle? My reaction was we need to come back in ten years. #2 was a low sulfur wine and had 100% stems and was musky and heady and intense and a strong rider, loved it and that seemed to be at least 20 years old and Vosne-like. #3 was so aged and so much like clay slip, I suspected a cork issue but was assured the wine was what it was. It wouldn'd have surprised me if it came from the late 50's. So much for my ability to deduce. These couldn't possibly come from the same year, could they? I could get that it wasn't a ripe year. But #3 was super aged. Then the hint: Parker hated the vintage. That meant 1993. All were from the same place in Vosne-Romanee, Les Brulées. #1: Engel! ( I forgot how I used to love this producer) #2: Leroy! (transformational) #3: Meo! (huh?) I failed miserably. But the other night, failed or not, I was a viniprincess and I still can remember the taste out of the glass slipper. The moral of the story is that every wine writer needs a patron and this one is up for grabs.

LVMH--the machine

I was hoping the company would get out of the champagne business but so far, desperate for more land, they are getting in deeper. The company that likes to sell the look of luxe instead of the real thing, acquired the previously family owned Montaudon, which according to the out of date Tom Stevenson World Encyclopedia of Champagne, owns about 80 acres of pinot noir planted vineyards. Stevenson writes, "The non-vintage and vintage have always been passable but not special." Meanwhile the LVMH press release writes: Christophe Navarre, chairman of Moët Hennessy, said: "The acquisition of Montaudon enables us to complete our portfolio of prestigious brands and to increase our Champagne reserves. This corresponds with Moët Hennessy's strategy to strengthen its worldwide leadership in the luxury wines and spirits sector."

LVMH--the machine

I was hoping the company would get out of the champagne business but so far, desperate for more land, they are getting in deeper. The company that likes to sell the look of luxe instead of the real thing, acquired the previously family owned Montaudon, which according to the out of date Tom Stevenson World Encyclopedia of Champagne, owns about 80 acres of pinot noir planted vineyards. Stevenson writes, "The non-vintage and vintage have always been passable but not special." Meanwhile the LVMH press release writes: Christophe Navarre, chairman of Moët Hennessy, said: "The acquisition of Montaudon enables us to complete our portfolio of prestigious brands and to increase our Champagne reserves. This corresponds with Moët Hennessy's strategy to strengthen its worldwide leadership in the luxury wines and spirits sector."

Looking for that Magical Mood Altering Taste

I'm sure THEY ask you, THEY are surely asking me: what have you been drinking that is exciting. Maybe it's the season, maybe it's my taste buds or my mood, or my recent plague of hives(and I'm not talking bees) and the mood altering prednisone that was required to fix me up....but NOTHING has been pleasing me. I have had nothing that excited me, except the recent night sky with the moon squaring off with Venus and Jupiter. And as usual, even looking over the 100 best wines from the Spectator doesn't get me salivating. I look at my wine shelves and I'm like a girl looking in her closet, I have nothing to drink/nothing to wear. Then I get an email from a friend about that 1947 Louis Martini. JEALOUSY!. I just got another email from a friend about that Selosse they had. JEALOUSY! FYI, my last bottles were drunk in the Rhone at George the Greek in 2004, pick up THE BOOK

And For that Pudding-Like Texture

What is the chicest container for fermenting wine in? Is it the cement egg? (last seen at Viader in Napa) or is it amphora? Good question. The egg is catching on and it is easier to ship to the states, so far there are no amphora, but give it a few seconds. But the reason for this blog is pudding, not ceramics. I went to the Georgian wine tasting last week because I wanted to taste the Kisi grape made in amphora. What I found was a collection of wine wines that had that just about to gel texture of Ko-Jel of my youth. This gel like texture seems to be taking over in many wines and not only whites: I find it disturbing. When I was in California one cellar rat told me, as he was looking over a line-up of pinot, "I can tell if the winemaker uses gum arabic just by the look of the legs." Could these be the culprit? And if so, why on earth does a winemaker think this is necessary? STABIVIN #15480 1 kg Gum Arabic for Prevention of Colloidal Sedimentation #15481 5 kg Stabivin is a filtered solution of purified gum derived from Acacia trees. This gum serves as a colloidal protector in wine. It inhibits turbidity and natural colloidal sediments without stripping flavors or body. In white or rosé wines, Stabivin inhibits copper casse. In red wines, Stabivin inhibits color drop out or iron casse related to sediments. Add to the wine after filtration just prior to bottling basing levels on winemaker trials and preference. One kilogram of liquid Stabivin is equal to one liter. Recommended Dosage: 250ppm (25 mL/hL) 908 mL/1000 gal Stabivin Tech Sheet (PDF) STABIVIN SP Gum Arabic for Prevention of Colloidal Sedimentation and for Soft Palate Enhancement Stabivin SP reacts mechanically in much the same way as Stabivin. Due to a unique preparation method, in addition to colloidal protection, Stabivin SP contributes a perception of sweetness and softness on the palate. Add to the wine after filtration just prior to bottling basing levels on winemaker trials and preference. One kilogram of liquid Stabivin is equal to one liter. Note: These gum arabic products may also help reduce the risk of colloidal deposits collecting in the bottle in wines bottled without filtration. Recommended Dosage: Legal Dosage 0.8 mL/L (80 mL/hL) 3.0 L/1000 gal Stabivin SP Tech Sheet (PDF) NOTE: The manufacturer's (Laffort's) recommended dose for Stabivin and Stabivin SP exceeds the current legal US limits for gum arabic additions. Gum arabic is a GRAS product and has been used at the suggested levels in Europe for several years. However, you may use Stabivin and Stabivin SP at the elevated recommended levels ONLY after requesting and receiving permission from the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau. A sample letter is provided below. Subsequent use will require sending another letter and waiting for an additional response before use. These procedures may change in the future depending on the commercial response for the products at these dosage levels. We will keep you apprised of any future developments. Stabivin TTB Request Letter (DOC)

Looking for that Magical Mood Altering Taste

I'm sure THEY ask you, THEY are surely asking me: what have you been drinking that is exciting. Maybe it's the season, maybe it's my taste buds or my mood, or my recent plague of hives(and I'm not talking bees) and the mood altering prednisone that was required to fix me up....but NOTHING has been pleasing me. I have had nothing that excited me, except the recent night sky with the moon squaring off with Venus and Jupiter. And as usual, even looking over the 100 best wines from the Spectator doesn't get me salivating. I look at my wine shelves and I'm like a girl looking in her closet, I have nothing to drink/nothing to wear. Then I get an email from a friend about that 1947 Louis Martini. JEALOUSY!. I just got another email from a friend about that Selosse they had. JEALOUSY! FYI, my last bottles were drunk in the Rhone at George the Greek in 2004, pick up THE BOOK

And For that Pudding-Like Texture

What is the chicest container for fermenting wine in? Is it the cement egg? (last seen at Viader in Napa) or is it amphora? Good question. The egg is catching on and it is easier to ship to the states, so far there are no amphora, but give it a few seconds. But the reason for this blog is pudding, not ceramics. I went to the Georgian wine tasting last week because I wanted to taste the Kisi grape made in amphora. What I found was a collection of wine wines that had that just about to gel texture of Ko-Jel of my youth. This gel like texture seems to be taking over in many wines and not only whites: I find it disturbing. When I was in California one cellar rat told me, as he was looking over a line-up of pinot, "I can tell if the winemaker uses gum arabic just by the look of the legs." Could these be the culprit? And if so, why on earth does a winemaker think this is necessary? STABIVIN #15480 1 kg Gum Arabic for Prevention of Colloidal Sedimentation #15481 5 kg Stabivin is a filtered solution of purified gum derived from Acacia trees. This gum serves as a colloidal protector in wine. It inhibits turbidity and natural colloidal sediments without stripping flavors or body. In white or rosé wines, Stabivin inhibits copper casse. In red wines, Stabivin inhibits color drop out or iron casse related to sediments. Add to the wine after filtration just prior to bottling basing levels on winemaker trials and preference. One kilogram of liquid Stabivin is equal to one liter. Recommended Dosage: 250ppm (25 mL/hL) 908 mL/1000 gal Stabivin Tech Sheet (PDF) STABIVIN SP Gum Arabic for Prevention of Colloidal Sedimentation and for Soft Palate Enhancement Stabivin SP reacts mechanically in much the same way as Stabivin. Due to a unique preparation method, in addition to colloidal protection, Stabivin SP contributes a perception of sweetness and softness on the palate. Add to the wine after filtration just prior to bottling basing levels on winemaker trials and preference. One kilogram of liquid Stabivin is equal to one liter. Note: These gum arabic products may also help reduce the risk of colloidal deposits collecting in the bottle in wines bottled without filtration. Recommended Dosage: Legal Dosage 0.8 mL/L (80 mL/hL) 3.0 L/1000 gal Stabivin SP Tech Sheet (PDF) NOTE: The manufacturer's (Laffort's) recommended dose for Stabivin and Stabivin SP exceeds the current legal US limits for gum arabic additions. Gum arabic is a GRAS product and has been used at the suggested levels in Europe for several years. However, you may use Stabivin and Stabivin SP at the elevated recommended levels ONLY after requesting and receiving permission from the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau. A sample letter is provided below. Subsequent use will require sending another letter and waiting for an additional response before use. These procedures may change in the future depending on the commercial response for the products at these dosage levels. We will keep you apprised of any future developments. Stabivin TTB Request Letter (DOC)