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(this is from a story I wrote for The Underground Wine Journal in 2000 or 2001, I can't remember!)
On the cusp of spring I stood in Filippo Antonellis gnarly vineyard. Looking out at Umbrian hills, brilliantly green with newborn wheat, punctuated by leafy olive trees and naked rows of Sagrantino grapevines I realized that this trip to Umbria and the region of Montefalco was two years in the making. Thats when I scribbled a note under the 96 Antonelli Sagrantino di Montefalco secco, Great!! Find out more. I forgot to. Later that year I visited a NYC restaurant called il Buco and homesick sommelier Roberto Paris, an Umbrian from the Montefalco region, poured a glass for me. This time I was hooked.
The thick-skinned Sagrantino has DOCG status in the five communes of Montefalco-- Bevagna, Gualdo, Cattaneo, Castel Ritaldi, and Giano dell'Umbria --all between Spoleto and Assisi. Other grapes are grown here, Sagrantino has star billing. Loaded with potent polyphenols, the grapes resulting wine can have tastebud-ripping tannins. To picture the grapes nature imagine these tannins in combo with the best qualities of brooding Nebbiolo, the sunny fruit of Negroamaro and acidity of a Barbera. The wine often presents with some form of tannic wrap around a plump and spicy -rich prune plum fruit, with counterpoint aromas of acacia, hay, and dried flowers. Other than the grapes comely characteristics, I find the whole psychology here irresistible. This wine is precariously perched between teen and adulthoodwith potential for an identity crisis.
Historically the grape was vinified in a sweet style called Passito (from dried-grapes) and it stayed syrupy sweet and purely a local treat--for centuries. Now its making a big splash as a dry wine, or as it is called, secco. Antonelli is one of fifteen presently producing. Though the winemakers generously share their research, most winemakers think their way with the grape is the right way. The scene is ripe for a clash of style and ego. Yet as Antonelli insists, You have to understand that Sagrantino secco is a young concept. There is no traditional way of making the dry wine. Every year is new to us. For example, we dont know how long the wine can age. Maybe eight years? Maybe fifteen? Who knows how long?
Wine has been documented in Montefalco since 1088. Pliny the Elder mentioned Itriola and some believe it to be Sagrantino. Most people assume that the devotees of St. Francis Assisi carried the grape from Asia Minor and its use was sacramental and celebratory. Researchers are trying to find its clonal relatives elsewhere in the world with no luckthe grape seems to be a Montefalco original.
Around 1972 a couple of winemakers got the notion to try their hand at Sagrantino in a dry form. Dr. Lodovico Mattoni, now President of Terre di Trinci a cooperative showing great commitment to the grape, says of the Trinci effort, It was awful, but promising. The promise that they saw was the wines structure and the powerful fruit. The awful part? Unyielding tannins. Antonelli reflects. In those early days we had no idea how to deal with them. We tried extremely short macerations: in some cases as few as five days However, this technique backfired; the wines were fiercely tannic and lacked complexity. Today macerations last between twelve and thirty-five days. In 1979 Sagrantino di Montefalco secco received DOC status and upgraded to DOCG in 1992.
Before 1992 wine books ignored Sagrantino. When talking about wine in Umbria it was either in reference to Grechetto (The white wines of the area and of Orvieto) or of Sangiovese. Sagrantino? Never heard of it. But, by 1995 some wines were winning Tres Bicchieri and Due Bicchieri awards. Prices climbed between $25 and $100 a bottle and wine writers and wine nerds started to notice.
Laws require that the wine be a 100% Sagrantino grape and must be aged for at least 30 months, 12 of which must be in an oak container, and six months in bottle. The best wineries take more time than the minimum requirement. Whether new or old oak barrique, full toast or medium toast or just neutral large oak barrels, here as in elsewhere in the world, the debate is on as to who has the right idea when it comes to wood.
Out of the areas Sagrantino producers, eight or nine are available in America. Four producers, Arnaldo Caprai. Paulo Bea, Milziade Antano and Fillipo Antonelli, seem to encapsulate the themes in winemakeing: peacemaker, international hawk, non-interventionist, amused observer.
Where most wineries in the area are modest, Arnaldo Caprai is lit up in spotlights-- the Castello on the hill. For all his bravado, Caprai deserves respect and gets it from his peers and the world. A business man who came to wine later in life, he has contributed a great deal of research and has traveled and worked to spread the popularity of the wine internationally. Computerized, the winery is pure California. Squat fermenting tanks are impressive works of stainless. The smell of spanking new toasty oak is prominent in the winery as in the wine. Caprai, with his 60,000 case production is the areas largest the producer having overtaken older large wineries Adanti and Rocca Di Fabri. Marco Caprai, the founder Arnaldos son, is now mostly in charge. His fur bristles when I ask about his New-World, international style of wine. What is Old-World? He asks me. I tell you, if you have no money, you use big, old barrels. If you are rich you use new barrique. We are rich.
Where Caprai is a relative newcomer, the Beas, on the other side of the walled city of Montefalco document their land ownership for several hundred years. The Caprai/Bea rivalry is well known, though each claims not to understand its origin. As a stranger it seemed obvious. Here are equivalent egos on different sides of the issues. One winery is huge. One is tiny. The Beas dont believe in masking the flavor of their grapes with new oak. They believe in only using native yeasts. On the issue of fermentation, theirs at 35-40 days is at least fifteen days longer than Caprais.
The Beas first secco was the 94 vintage. We were experimenting with Sagrantino for ten years, says Giampiero Bea, Paulos son says as leads me to a tiny barn where wine is still going through malolactic fermentation. I almost walk into a swinging lump in a cheesecloth dripping red wine into a bucket. He says, I make an experiment, making cheese soaked in Sagrantino. We sit down to taste Sagrantino in a candlelit setting. Thinking about the cheese experiment I anticipate a wild wine. But here is a most gentle and easy wine. Barely tannic, in fact, it is quite romantic. The 95, the oldest he has to offer me, is still youthful and has developed a more complex aroma than more recent vintages. At 6 years old its still a youngster.
Politics dont seem to matter to Milziade Antano. What he cares about is wine. His production is tiny, 2000 cases. . He doesnt use new oak in his secco but hes open to it. Not now, but who knows? Maybe in the future. He has the coarse hands of a farmer hands and the eyes and nose of a poet. He pours his 97 Sagrantino. He cradles the wineglass bowl, inhales and is pleased. Here are aromas of acacia, a touch of honey mix of hay and plum, aromas that I have come to associate with Sagrantinos nature. He pours a 94 from a so-called bad year and it lacks power but it has an elegant perfume of dried roses and honeysuckle with a firm tarry center and subtle tobacco finish. His first secco was produced in the 1982 he started producing Passito in 1972. He macerates for 20 days. Like Antonelli prefers to use natural yeast but will add a strain of selected yeastsespecially in a less than spectacular vintage.
Filippo Antonellis olive and vine planted land has been in the family since the mid-1800s. He made his first Sagrantino secco in 1979. At 20,000 cases he is amid-sized producer with an artisnal approach. He sells every bottle he makes and could sell more. His baby Sagrantino vines are too young and his winery is just too tiny. He desperately needs more room.
I ask him whether he has any older vintages. Not too many, he says. But, he pulls a 1990 with apologies for its dreadful storagewhich means enduring almost a decade of hot summers. As expected the wine has turned port-like, yet is tasty. He then opens an 88 that was more properly stored. Here the wine has a very subdued bouquet, but the structure was still holding and the fruit on the palate is fresh. There was that hay and acacia. Like the man, all of his wines are warm, generous and complex. They reflect an open mind but strong roots in tradition. More than the others I tasted here is a more sunny quality with a touch of broiled red fruits. He uses barrique, not all new, with a medium toast and the wood is beautifully integrated leaving no vanilla or caramel on the palate. He prefers severely pruning his vines instead of dropping excessive grape bunches to the ground in a green harvest. Like the others who are planting right now, he is using cuttings not clones. The university is working on it, he says, but a clone must be free of all viruses. There is a virus in all native Sagrantino plants, which I think must be a healthy thing.
Many of the established and well -reputed, including Rocca di Fabri, Adanti, Scacciadioveli are upgrading their vineyard and winery practices. The dull cooperative, Spoleto Ducale, is lusting for a piece of the areas success and is trying to shed its dreadful reputation by going full barrique, full toast and full technical. In 1995 a farm equipment conglomerate bought Colpetrone . Now the winery is producing a full-throttle international style wine; the areas second Tres Bicchieri winner.
Current landowners are buying up more land and olive oil growers are going into the Sagrantino secco business. The roaming wine consultant Riccardo Cotarella is making wine here. Andrea Cecchi of Tuscany and the Maremma has bought land and is planting five hectares (with a goal of 30) near Antonelli. The Lungarottis, Umbrians from the Torgiano area, rented tanks in which to make their Sagrantino secco. A flush of new producers with big technology and ideas are primed to move in. Antonelli, who is just got approval to break ground for his brand new gravity flow winery is happy about his new neighbor and the excitement in the region says, We hope land is closed to buying in about three years.
The story of a revitalized or even rediscovered land in Italy is now an old one. The Maremma went through itbut it was for a new soil on which to plant an old Sangiovese. Puglia went through it, but it was for revitalizing Primitivo and Negroamaro. Here is something quite familiar yet dramatically different: an ancient grape grappling with a new identify. In the search for big wine rating scores and awards, might the true identity of Sagrantino be lost--- even before its discovered? In a world that currently romances smooth, rich and homogenized wines, Sagrantino is an antidote. Yet, as more hillside property gets cleared for vineyards, and the toasty barrique and the fully international approach to wine making is embraced, the good people of Montefalco could well be thinking, there goes the neighborhood. On the other hand, my friend Roberto Paris, with eight different Sagrantinos on his il Buco wine list, (and all doing very well, thank you very much) thinks Im a bit of a hysteric. Relax he says, this is wine, not psychotherapy. But sometimes the comparisons are irresistible. As I only drink the wine and not make it, I will comfort myself as a parent does: a search for the meaning of its life might be in store, but this teenager has a solid structure, good values and a knock out personality. Sagrantino will withstand the growing pains ahead ---and with style.
Posted at 07:07 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)
You may have heard that Newman as in Paul now has a vanilla and chocolate wine on the market. I know it for truth because I got the press release today. What's the rule? The sillier the package the worse the wine? Got a Bowler in a box, two bottles, a DVD of Butch Cassidy (never saw it) and a bottle of cabernet and chardonnay.
For some reason, I decided to taste of recycling them. After all, I have friends who love his salsa!
Yeah, yeah, I know. Trinchero made them but still, it's Newman. He's supposed to be (or at least his daughter) is an organic kind of guys (or gal?). Who knows, he might even own a few hundred bottles of good stuff.
These bottles were heartstoppers. They exceeded expecations......of bad wine. At $16 dollars a bottle, they are almost tragic. Well, make that toxic. I have to say, my heart went out for him and the poor unsuspecting folk who might buy them. I know the proceeds go to charity but at what cost! Just make out the check and leave the wine behind (who said, no wine left behind?)
The chardonnay (2006? who cares) is billed as 13.7 etoh but the label says 13.5. God knows what it started out in life as. 18%? That wine was so vegetal underneath the Bright Flavors......so bright they have a Mag lite focused on the tropicale (fyi: This is not a typo, but a favored Alice twist on the word.). It is a puddle of tropical jello, in fact the texture is like it as well. And the burn, and the horrifying acidulation....well, it's a terrible toxic dump of a wine.
In comparison the cabernet is genius. But still bad with that pudding-like texture and reverse osmosis burn, and I can see a mad scientist stirring the pot to replace what nature didn't give it, like a nice berry and bell pepper aroma. They claim it was aged IN French and American oak (in? really? Don't they mean 'around?) "to marry into one harmonious Cabernet. It is so harmonious, that when you pour it down the drain (advisable) you can see the wine unravel and separate into silt and water. I've seen this before but never in such technicolor!
(While comments are suspended I'll make an attempt to cut and paste some below until I can find out the SPAM SOLUTION!)
COMMENTS:
This in from Jill in LA:
Was about to post a comment on the Newman's Own post -- have you seen the Clif Bar Winery products? Yes, wine made by the same folks who brought us the magnificent Clif Bar (pseudo-sports/health/energy snack). My guess is that they have such brand penetration in supermarkets (Trader Joe's and Whole Foods especially) that they figured it was a no-brainer for them to slap their label on a wine and push it through the same distribution channels. I suppose I'll be open to being proven wrong if a rep tastes me on the stuff (Henry Wine Group is handling in CA) but I'm skeptical. I think they're also shilling olive oil. Organic, I hope.
This in from Dave in the Bay Area:
Alice:
Who to believe, what to believe?
Here's what the Sac Bee's Mike Dunne says about Paul's latest efforts: http://www.sacbee.com/static/weblogs/dining/
But I'm not sure he's totally praising them when he calls the chardonnay as having "unusual complexity" and the cab as being "thick through the middle" and a "stew wine."
Oh well. I don't miss the movie, either.
(FOR THOSE WHO DON"T WANT TO FOLLOW THE LINK, DUNNE'S TAKE ON THE WINE IS:
The chardonnay is true to type, its ripe fruit running to pineapple and apple, with unusual complexity for an example of the varietal more at home as an aperitif than a companion at the dinner table.
The cabernet sauvignon is dense in color and thick through the middle, its herbal and cherry fruitiness shot through with suggestions of port. It's a stew wine, or better yet a wine to pair with saltena, the beefy, fruity and spicy Bolivian version of an empanada. )
You may have heard that Newman as in Paul now has a vanilla and chocolate wine on the market. I know it for truth because I got the press release today. What's the rule? The sillier the package the worse the wine? Got a Bowler in a box, two bottles, a DVD of Butch Cassidy (never saw it) and a bottle of cabernet and chardonnay.
For some reason, I decided to taste of recycling them. After all, I have friends who love his salsa!
Yeah, yeah, I know. Trinchero made them but still, it's Newman. He's supposed to be (or at least his daughter) is an organic kind of guys (or gal?). Who knows, he might even own a few hundred bottles of good stuff.
These bottles were heartstoppers. They exceeded expecations......of bad wine. At $16 dollars a bottle, they are almost tragic. Well, make that toxic. I have to say, my heart went out for him and the poor unsuspecting folk who might buy them. I know the proceeds go to charity but at what cost! Just make out the check and leave the wine behind (who said, no wine left behind?)
The chardonnay (2006? who cares) is billed as 13.7 etoh but the label says 13.5. God knows what it started out in life as. 18%? That wine was so vegetal underneath the Bright Flavors......so bright they have a Mag lite focused on the tropicale (fyi: This is not a typo, but a favored Alice twist on the word.). It is a puddle of tropical jello, in fact the texture is like it as well. And the burn, and the horrifying acidulation....well, it's a terrible toxic dump of a wine.
In comparison the cabernet is genius. But still bad with that pudding-like texture and reverse osmosis burn, and I can see a mad scientist stirring the pot to replace what nature didn't give it, like a nice berry and bell pepper aroma. They claim it was aged IN French and American oak (in? really? Don't they mean 'around?) "to marry into one harmonious Cabernet. It is so harmonious, that when you pour it down the drain (advisable) you can see the wine unravel and separate into silt and water. I've seen this before but never in such technicolor!
(While comments are suspended I'll make an attempt to cut and paste some below until I can find out the SPAM SOLUTION!)
COMMENTS:
This in from Jill in LA:
Was about to post a comment on the Newman's Own post -- have you seen the Clif Bar Winery products? Yes, wine made by the same folks who brought us the magnificent Clif Bar (pseudo-sports/health/energy snack). My guess is that they have such brand penetration in supermarkets (Trader Joe's and Whole Foods especially) that they figured it was a no-brainer for them to slap their label on a wine and push it through the same distribution channels. I suppose I'll be open to being proven wrong if a rep tastes me on the stuff (Henry Wine Group is handling in CA) but I'm skeptical. I think they're also shilling olive oil. Organic, I hope.
This in from Dave in the Bay Area:
Alice:
Who to believe, what to believe?
Here's what the Sac Bee's Mike Dunne says about Paul's latest efforts: http://www.sacbee.com/static/weblogs/dining/
But I'm not sure he's totally praising them when he calls the chardonnay as having "unusual complexity" and the cab as being "thick through the middle" and a "stew wine."
Oh well. I don't miss the movie, either.
(FOR THOSE WHO DON"T WANT TO FOLLOW THE LINK, DUNNE'S TAKE ON THE WINE IS:
The chardonnay is true to type, its ripe fruit running to pineapple and apple, with unusual complexity for an example of the varietal more at home as an aperitif than a companion at the dinner table.
The cabernet sauvignon is dense in color and thick through the middle, its herbal and cherry fruitiness shot through with suggestions of port. It's a stew wine, or better yet a wine to pair with saltena, the beefy, fruity and spicy Bolivian version of an empanada. )
Posted at 02:27 AM | Permalink
Posted at 01:27 AM | Permalink
Got a psst....email on Saturday "Possibly Bad Publicity is Good Publicity?" The publicity in question was the threat on ebob.
http://dat.erobertparker.com/bboard/showthread.php?p=2028908#post2028908
Someone had discovered my book on the Harcourt site. Posted it. A discussion of it went on. Plenty of speculations about..."too bad she has a chip on her shoulder," stuff like that. Some people voiced interest. Oddly enough there wasn't too much bashing. Actually, more interest than bash and some people didn't know who I was.
Squires chimed in at the end saying that I, a nobody, must need publicity pretty badly to write such a book (like he knows what I wrote?) and then he said a lot of people are jealous of Robert Parker's fame.
I suppose he meant me.
He then he locked the thread down with a thwat and bam.
Then he removed said thread.
Maybe he realized that I got about 200 hits from the conversation?
Did anyone happen to see it before it was removed?
I used to work on psych units and this behavior is always fascinating to me. Especially because it boosted my Amazon ratings. Thanks guys!
On the other hand, I have always been comfortable with criticism. Having just having spent the weekend with family, I was reminded why. Dealing with positive feedback is more difficult. And talking about it, and tooting that horn is more difficult, but it is still is exciting and I hope you don't mind me passing on that the wonderfully talented Gregory Maguire (Wicked, Son of a Witch author, called my book "captivating." And the book editor for the Dayton (Ohio) Daily News blogged me.
Posted at 09:48 PM | Permalink

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