Springing Leaks

It seems everything in my life lately is about plumbing. First there was the story the Times and then there was irrigation. I spent the past few days taping conversations with West Coast wine makers, academes, vineyard managers and governmental types talking about watering vines, which meant I was trapped in an alternative universe. I ask for water. they give me chocolate milk. I see turquoise, they see orange. I see artichoke, they see soccer ball. I see processed, they see natural. I’m back in Wonderland! Ok. Irrigation. It won’t shock you to find out what my belief is: no irrigation if there is any way to dry farm. It won’t shock you that most tell me that ALL vineyards in California need to be hooked up to an IV, even when I point out vineyards that ARE dry farmed. Now, granted, there are lots of vineyards that do need the drip. Yet on the famous and expensive bench of Napa Valley nearly all vineyards should be able to be dry farmed. Amongst the very few who do are; Grigich Hills, Frog's Leap, Dominus. Obviously, I can’t scoop myself--but I do get to leak a favorite quotes. This one was from the Agriculture Commissioner of Napa who really believes that he can’t work with nature. He really believes wine needs to be controlled. Nice guy…..if misguided. “Let’s take France who is presently not allowed to irrigate. They’re at the whim of Mother Nature and not all years are not going to be the same. Some years they’ll suffer some will be exceptional because they’re dependent on nature --everything is up to chance.” I’ll save my commentary for this quote for after the piece is out. But feel free to take it away.