The Feiring Line

Yeasts and Mega Purple

So much about Mega Purple in the news lately. Try googling it. What's in a name? plenty.

Mega Purple is a rock n roll name for a grape concentrate that adds color and flavor and fat to your favorite red wine. It's been an immensely popular additive since 1992. Corie Brown just ran a story in the LA Times quite similar to the one I wrote in 2001 for the NYTimes. But in my story, I didn�t out the proprietory name Mega Purple. I called the family of Mega Purple... grape juice concentrate.

People are awfully worked up about it. It must be the name. The idea that someone wants to add something called Mega Purple to a wine merely sounds specious, like its some some sort of radioactive substance. Now, how many people outraged by MP never care about eating leprechaun green mint ice-cream?

What the hell. Which reminds me of press releases.

Let's take yeast. Yeast is all over California press releases. It seems as if vinterns are really pleased with themselves with making a terroir-driven wine and then finding the correct aromatic yeast in which to �craft,� their wine.

Take this one I got from Clos du Bois for a $12 riesling. The release states that Winemaker Eric Olsen �sought out a spectacular vineyard in Monterey County�s Santa Lucia Highlands to craft a wine with distinctive floral aromas, �that are the hallmarks of this varietal.

Then it's written that the wine was made with the yeasts VL-3 and Cote de Blanc

Well, of course I wanted to know what those two yeasts do.

*** VL-3 was isolated by the Bordeaux Institute of Oenology following fundamental research done on enhancing varietal character and aroma in Sauvignon Blanc. The research led to the identification of certain aroma precursors that yeast could act upon to reveal specific aromas. Subsequent experimentation has found this to be true of other varieties, such as Riesling and Pinot Blanc. VL3 is adapted to aging on the lees and produces very low levels of volatile acidity.

***Cote des Blancs. AKA Geisenheim Epernay. A low foaming slower speed fermenter with low alcohol tolerance. This strain emphasizes fruit character in both reds and whites making it an excellent choice for fruit wines, especially apple. If fermented at cooler temperatures it will not ferment to dryness producing a sweeter wine with some residual sugar.

It's such a topsy turvy world! What a wild and crazy place.

Yeasts and Mega Purple

So much about Mega Purple in the news lately. Try googling it. What's in a name? plenty.

Mega Purple is a rock n roll name for a grape concentrate that adds color and flavor and fat to your favorite red wine. It's been an immensely popular additive since 1992. Corie Brown just ran a story in the LA Times quite similar to the one I wrote in 2001 for the NYTimes. But in my story, I didn�t out the proprietory name Mega Purple. I called the family of Mega Purple... grape juice concentrate.

People are awfully worked up about it. It must be the name. The idea that someone wants to add something called Mega Purple to a wine merely sounds specious, like its some some sort of radioactive substance. Now, how many people outraged by MP never care about eating leprechaun green mint ice-cream?

What the hell. Which reminds me of press releases.

Let's take yeast. Yeast is all over California press releases. It seems as if vinterns are really pleased with themselves with making a terroir-driven wine and then finding the correct aromatic yeast in which to �craft,� their wine.

Take this one I got from Clos du Bois for a $12 riesling. The release states that Winemaker Eric Olsen �sought out a spectacular vineyard in Monterey County�s Santa Lucia Highlands to craft a wine with distinctive floral aromas, �that are the hallmarks of this varietal.

Then it's written that the wine was made with the yeasts VL-3 and Cote de Blanc

Well, of course I wanted to know what those two yeasts do.

*** VL-3 was isolated by the Bordeaux Institute of Oenology following fundamental research done on enhancing varietal character and aroma in Sauvignon Blanc. The research led to the identification of certain aroma precursors that yeast could act upon to reveal specific aromas. Subsequent experimentation has found this to be true of other varieties, such as Riesling and Pinot Blanc. VL3 is adapted to aging on the lees and produces very low levels of volatile acidity.

***Cote des Blancs. AKA Geisenheim Epernay. A low foaming slower speed fermenter with low alcohol tolerance. This strain emphasizes fruit character in both reds and whites making it an excellent choice for fruit wines, especially apple. If fermented at cooler temperatures it will not ferment to dryness producing a sweeter wine with some residual sugar.

It's such a topsy turvy world! What a wild and crazy place.

Polaner Tasting: Part Two

(Oh, vanity! To those who came here from The Wine Importer's site, the real Alice ---for better or worse, actually looks like this.) ...and now back to the Polaner tasting. I finally made my way into the room I had run from. I only had an hour left. I needed to taste and then I needed to schmooze. First stop: Emidio Pepe table from Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Offered up or tasting were two Trebbano's, 2004 & 2001. And for the reds; 2001, 200, 1998, 1985, 1982 and 1977. This is a hand-done operation; picking, destemming and foot-trodden. The wine sees no wood. Remember, no wood. So much for needing wood (ages in glass tanks for up to 24 months until the wine is stable) to make an age-worthy wine; the 1977 was vibrant, exquisite, complex, warming. The 1982 was filled licorice. The 1983 had an extraordinary mineral, rusty, iron quality. That is the quality I used to love in Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. It is a quality that had been stripped from the modern wines...like those terrible Montepulciano's I had at the Tre Bicchieri tasting. Even in the wine's youth, like the 2000, the velvet and charm is there. There was another element in many of these wines. Now how to say this. Just take it that I mean it in a good way. Halitosis meets carnation. Anyway, these are expensive wines. And why shouldn't they be? I am just sorry I cannot afford them. Even the youngster, the 2001, is quite beautiful...(oh shit. I am looking at the tasting sheet. Did Doug really list the Wine Advocate scores? Did Galloni --the new Parker guy who covers Italy--really 'score' these wines?) Does anyone really need a score--does anyone need affirmation to buy these wines? How? They are so pretty, chimerical, fascinating, provoking and lush. Somehow it all seems so sad. Doug listed the scores for everything that broke the 90-point zone. But then, he is a good, great biz guy. And I couldn't ever sell lemonade on a hot day. I'd PAY someone to drink lemonade on a hot day. How crazy is that? Don't answer. Don't answer. I know it. But that sales thing is either in your blood or the salesperson white blood cell count is low. C'est moi. Which is why the 1983 which I loved....just adored...Doug didn't give the WA score. Which was 89. Whew. Why do I find that reassuring? Perverse of me. I'm sure. But yes, I'm perverse. I found it a thrilling wine. I thought I was going to go on...but I really only want to say two more thing; the 2006 Arpent Rouge (pineau d'aunis) from Clos Roche Blanche is lovely!! Top of Catherine's adorable, eccentric house at Clos Roche Blanche Then on to Spain. It was a great day for Lopez de Heredia. All showed brilliantly. And if you have any doubts about the new release 1999 Bosconia Reserva, don't. It's a teaser of a wine that delivers killer structure, velvet and something similar to that carnation/halitosis I got from the Pepe. I guess it must have been that kind of day. Amen.

Polaner Tasting: Part Two

(Oh, vanity! To those who came here from The Wine Importer's site, the real Alice ---for better or worse, actually looks like this.) ...and now back to the Polaner tasting. I finally made my way into the room I had run from. I only had an hour left. I needed to taste and then I needed to schmooze. First stop: Emidio Pepe table from Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Offered up or tasting were two Trebbano's, 2004 & 2001. And for the reds; 2001, 200, 1998, 1985, 1982 and 1977. This is a hand-done operation; picking, destemming and foot-trodden. The wine sees no wood. Remember, no wood. So much for needing wood (ages in glass tanks for up to 24 months until the wine is stable) to make an age-worthy wine; the 1977 was vibrant, exquisite, complex, warming. The 1982 was filled licorice. The 1983 had an extraordinary mineral, rusty, iron quality. That is the quality I used to love in Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. It is a quality that had been stripped from the modern wines...like those terrible Montepulciano's I had at the Tre Bicchieri tasting. Even in the wine's youth, like the 2000, the velvet and charm is there. There was another element in many of these wines. Now how to say this. Just take it that I mean it in a good way. Halitosis meets carnation. Anyway, these are expensive wines. And why shouldn't they be? I am just sorry I cannot afford them. Even the youngster, the 2001, is quite beautiful...(oh shit. I am looking at the tasting sheet. Did Doug really list the Wine Advocate scores? Did Galloni --the new Parker guy who covers Italy--really 'score' these wines?) Does anyone really need a score--does anyone need affirmation to buy these wines? How? They are so pretty, chimerical, fascinating, provoking and lush. Somehow it all seems so sad. Doug listed the scores for everything that broke the 90-point zone. But then, he is a good, great biz guy. And I couldn't ever sell lemonade on a hot day. I'd PAY someone to drink lemonade on a hot day. How crazy is that? Don't answer. Don't answer. I know it. But that sales thing is either in your blood or the salesperson white blood cell count is low. C'est moi. Which is why the 1983 which I loved....just adored...Doug didn't give the WA score. Which was 89. Whew. Why do I find that reassuring? Perverse of me. I'm sure. But yes, I'm perverse. I found it a thrilling wine. I thought I was going to go on...but I really only want to say two more thing; the 2006 Arpent Rouge (pineau d'aunis) from Clos Roche Blanche is lovely!! Top of Catherine's adorable, eccentric house at Clos Roche Blanche Then on to Spain. It was a great day for Lopez de Heredia. All showed brilliantly. And if you have any doubts about the new release 1999 Bosconia Reserva, don't. It's a teaser of a wine that delivers killer structure, velvet and something similar to that carnation/halitosis I got from the Pepe. I guess it must have been that kind of day. Amen.

Polaner Tasting: Part One

There may have been fewer velvet jackets but lots more life. I headed first to room that housed the domestic, Australian, Eric Solomon selections. I�ve always heard lots of good things about K-Vintners from Walla Walla. tried the �Big Boy� mostly Grenache, and then the Mibrandt Wahluke Slope Syrah. These massive, clunky, senseless wines made me doubt the sanity of those who whispered the name to me. Sonoma's Wells Guthrie of Copain continues to make sensible syrah, meaning they have some connection to the grape and the place. Poor Wells, I�d love to see what he did in France but he lives in California, what can he do? Eaglepoint Ranch was nicely animal and structured. The news from Wells is that his winery is almost finished, so he'll be able to move out of the industrial park he's called wine home by the next vintage. That was about all I could take of domestic stuff. Before I left the rear room, though, I wanted to check out Domaine de la Janasse, which proved to be an interesting segue. If you�re reading this blog, this is NOT our kind of wine. This celebrated by Mr. Parker wine is way to modern for us. It's tweaked. Way too much oak and vanilla and grenache is a terrible combination in my view. Janasses is an Eric Solomon Selection, not a distributor who has a lot that I admire but every once in a while there�s an exception. Such an exception is the Alsatian Domaine Bott -Geyl. If you get a chance to taste the Riesling Les Elements, 2004, it�s a treat of tart lemon and fierce minerality with a finish that doesn�t quit. TBC

Polaner Tasting: Part One

There may have been fewer velvet jackets but lots more life. I headed first to room that housed the domestic, Australian, Eric Solomon selections. I�ve always heard lots of good things about K-Vintners from Walla Walla. tried the �Big Boy� mostly Grenache, and then the Mibrandt Wahluke Slope Syrah. These massive, clunky, senseless wines made me doubt the sanity of those who whispered the name to me. Sonoma's Wells Guthrie of Copain continues to make sensible syrah, meaning they have some connection to the grape and the place. Poor Wells, I�d love to see what he did in France but he lives in California, what can he do? Eaglepoint Ranch was nicely animal and structured. The news from Wells is that his winery is almost finished, so he'll be able to move out of the industrial park he's called wine home by the next vintage. That was about all I could take of domestic stuff. Before I left the rear room, though, I wanted to check out Domaine de la Janasse, which proved to be an interesting segue. If you�re reading this blog, this is NOT our kind of wine. This celebrated by Mr. Parker wine is way to modern for us. It's tweaked. Way too much oak and vanilla and grenache is a terrible combination in my view. Janasses is an Eric Solomon Selection, not a distributor who has a lot that I admire but every once in a while there�s an exception. Such an exception is the Alsatian Domaine Bott -Geyl. If you get a chance to taste the Riesling Les Elements, 2004, it�s a treat of tart lemon and fierce minerality with a finish that doesn�t quit. TBC

Tre Bicchieri Rant

The Tre Bicchieri tasting-- put on by Gambero Rosso, the Italian epicurian/vinurian magazine and the Slow Food organization--is one of the more perplexing tastings around. It was held this past Monday at the Puck Building in NYC. This is always a wildly anticipated event. Usually the line to get in snakes around the block. This year I got to the entrance early, and marched right in. I plotted my attack as I perused the some-odd 170 wines. Out of I don�t know, 170 wines? There were about five I wanted to taste and about ten that I could (if pressed) drink. There is some paradox. How is it possible that the Produtorri del Barbarescos can exist in the same room with Gianni Masciarelli from Abruzzo? (Ah, I remember that I used to like those Masciarelli's. Now, the wine smacks of wine consultant, like most of the wines that won the prestigious award.). How is it possible that the lovely Dettori Tenores �03, a Cannonau elevaged in cement, was in the same room as the silly Donna Fugata. I love those Dettori wines, by the way. I love that someone in Sardinia is making natural wines, but the prices are so high (Tenores is $90+) that when pressed at a wine shop or restaurant, I'll drink Minervois, thank you. But still, I appreciate they wines exist and am trying to hatch a plan to visit. There were a few other wines that I liked. Let�s add to my list Biondi-Santi and Bruno Giacosa�s Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva. Who needs tasting notes? The wines are fantastic. I just wonder who slipped these in, and I would love know the politics. So, I left in record time. Am I the only woman to leave this tasting without purple teeth? (Probably). Anyway, the tasting paled next to the Polaner tasting two days later.

Tre Bicchieri Rant

The Tre Bicchieri tasting-- put on by Gambero Rosso, the Italian epicurian/vinurian magazine and the Slow Food organization--is one of the more perplexing tastings around. It was held this past Monday at the Puck Building in NYC. This is always a wildly anticipated event. Usually the line to get in snakes around the block. This year I got to the entrance early, and marched right in. I plotted my attack as I perused the some-odd 170 wines. Out of I don�t know, 170 wines? There were about five I wanted to taste and about ten that I could (if pressed) drink. There is some paradox. How is it possible that the Produtorri del Barbarescos can exist in the same room with Gianni Masciarelli from Abruzzo? (Ah, I remember that I used to like those Masciarelli's. Now, the wine smacks of wine consultant, like most of the wines that won the prestigious award.). How is it possible that the lovely Dettori Tenores �03, a Cannonau elevaged in cement, was in the same room as the silly Donna Fugata. I love those Dettori wines, by the way. I love that someone in Sardinia is making natural wines, but the prices are so high (Tenores is $90+) that when pressed at a wine shop or restaurant, I'll drink Minervois, thank you. But still, I appreciate they wines exist and am trying to hatch a plan to visit. There were a few other wines that I liked. Let�s add to my list Biondi-Santi and Bruno Giacosa�s Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva. Who needs tasting notes? The wines are fantastic. I just wonder who slipped these in, and I would love know the politics. So, I left in record time. Am I the only woman to leave this tasting without purple teeth? (Probably). Anyway, the tasting paled next to the Polaner tasting two days later.

NYC's Best Wine Store & Wine Bar

I was flattered into writing the best wine store and wine bar in New York for New York Magazine Best of New York issue last month. The reason I needed to be pressed into service? I was leaving for France in a few days and would have to drop everything to do research.

The other reason I needed to be flattered into action is because I need my byline attached to my writing. It seemed 'off' that New York Mag should want me because I had 'authority' but then tell me the pieces were to run anonymously. As they had a flicker of interest in a wine column penned by me (with my name), I thought, sure, let's relationship build.

I filed from France.

Did a rewrite.

Then was told the Friday before the 'Best Of' issue that it wasn't going to run due to 'space' issues.

I like the little snippets. I feel they are valid (however, if I wrote the piece now as opposed to then, the brand new Blue Ribbon Bakery's wine bar, would win 'best of.' Love that place).

For those of you study 'voice' here I am in 'magazine speak,' as opposed to the unexpurgated me.

CHAMBERS STREET WINES: BEST WINE STORE

Even with the current proliferation of hip, petite wine boutiques, it�s easy to wax poetic about the independent wine geniuses behind Chambers Street Wines.

Has any other wine store in New York proudly offered fabulous older vintages of cult muscadet? No. Has any other amassed a more dazzling collection of cru Beaujolais from Morgon or intense assortment of old vintages of Bordeaux? No. Any other have an equivalent line-up of the Loire�s finest? Hah!

Independent thinkers, owners and wine veterans, Jamie Wolff and David Lillie built their six-year old store around a solid (yet eccentric) portfolio making them the destination for the wine drinker (serious collector or novice) not interested in the obvious. With a bias for honest wines, truly representative of the region they come from, if you�re looking for something like Yellow Tail or seeking new 95 pointer cabernet, please go elsewhere. Better yet, open your mind and take their passionate guidance for something like that lovely organic $12 Fronsac from Peybonhomme that will forever change the way you feel about merlot. Finds like these as well as access to those important or older wines has placed them on the map, not only in New York, but around the country.

Chambers Street Wines
160 Chambers Street
212 227 1434

THE MONDAY ROOM: BEST WINE BAR
What passes as a wine bar in this town can make a white wine turn pink. But, The Monday Room, the better half of Little Italy�s Public restaurant, gives hope that our urban drinking situation is improving dramatically. Monday is not so much urbane wine bar than clubby, wine lounge. In fact, there is no �bar,� per se. Instead, personalized wine service is provided banquette-side, under romantic lighting, by the bushilly mustachioed sommelier, Ruben Sanz Ramiro. Ramiro, who chooses the wines, has a knowledge and passion that is entirely infectious. Like the best of the genre the Monday offers a luxurious sense of choice and flexibility with about 30 choices of wine available in various wine flights, � glass, full glass, � bottle or full bottle. At first blush a $14 half glass for the delicious, animal-ish Levet Cote Rotie might seem uber expensive yet the actual ounce pour, coupled with the giant taste satisfaction makes it seem a bargain. Pair that with winning bite sized tapas (pork belly perhaps?) and delicious cheese from Saxelby�s makes this newcomer a precious rarity. Reservations recommended.

The Monday Room
210 Elizabeth Street
212 343 7911

NYC's Best Wine Store & Wine Bar

I was flattered into writing the best wine store and wine bar in New York for New York Magazine Best of New York issue last month. The reason I needed to be pressed into service? I was leaving for France in a few days and would have to drop everything to do research.

The other reason I needed to be flattered into action is because I need my byline attached to my writing. It seemed 'off' that New York Mag should want me because I had 'authority' but then tell me the pieces were to run anonymously. As they had a flicker of interest in a wine column penned by me (with my name), I thought, sure, let's relationship build.

I filed from France.

Did a rewrite.

Then was told the Friday before the 'Best Of' issue that it wasn't going to run due to 'space' issues.

I like the little snippets. I feel they are valid (however, if I wrote the piece now as opposed to then, the brand new Blue Ribbon Bakery's wine bar, would win 'best of.' Love that place).

For those of you study 'voice' here I am in 'magazine speak,' as opposed to the unexpurgated me.

CHAMBERS STREET WINES: BEST WINE STORE

Even with the current proliferation of hip, petite wine boutiques, it�s easy to wax poetic about the independent wine geniuses behind Chambers Street Wines.

Has any other wine store in New York proudly offered fabulous older vintages of cult muscadet? No. Has any other amassed a more dazzling collection of cru Beaujolais from Morgon or intense assortment of old vintages of Bordeaux? No. Any other have an equivalent line-up of the Loire�s finest? Hah!

Independent thinkers, owners and wine veterans, Jamie Wolff and David Lillie built their six-year old store around a solid (yet eccentric) portfolio making them the destination for the wine drinker (serious collector or novice) not interested in the obvious. With a bias for honest wines, truly representative of the region they come from, if you�re looking for something like Yellow Tail or seeking new 95 pointer cabernet, please go elsewhere. Better yet, open your mind and take their passionate guidance for something like that lovely organic $12 Fronsac from Peybonhomme that will forever change the way you feel about merlot. Finds like these as well as access to those important or older wines has placed them on the map, not only in New York, but around the country.

Chambers Street Wines
160 Chambers Street
212 227 1434

THE MONDAY ROOM: BEST WINE BAR
What passes as a wine bar in this town can make a white wine turn pink. But, The Monday Room, the better half of Little Italy�s Public restaurant, gives hope that our urban drinking situation is improving dramatically. Monday is not so much urbane wine bar than clubby, wine lounge. In fact, there is no �bar,� per se. Instead, personalized wine service is provided banquette-side, under romantic lighting, by the bushilly mustachioed sommelier, Ruben Sanz Ramiro. Ramiro, who chooses the wines, has a knowledge and passion that is entirely infectious. Like the best of the genre the Monday offers a luxurious sense of choice and flexibility with about 30 choices of wine available in various wine flights, � glass, full glass, � bottle or full bottle. At first blush a $14 half glass for the delicious, animal-ish Levet Cote Rotie might seem uber expensive yet the actual ounce pour, coupled with the giant taste satisfaction makes it seem a bargain. Pair that with winning bite sized tapas (pork belly perhaps?) and delicious cheese from Saxelby�s makes this newcomer a precious rarity. Reservations recommended.

The Monday Room
210 Elizabeth Street
212 343 7911