I just got my copy of
The Oldways Table, Essays & Recipe from the Culinary Think Tank (Ten Speed Press).
The book was long in the making. In fact, it was so long I forgot Sara (Baer-Sinnott) and Dun (K. Dun Gifford) the founders of Oldways (the think tank that put a bottle of extra-virgin olive oil on every table in America) had asked me for an essay on sweet wines.
I popped open the book, and there with colleagues such as Melissa Clark. sommelier Cat Silirie, Nancy Harmon Jenkins, Lou DiPalo--there it was.
I've posted the unedited essay under my article section.