The Feiring Line

Clouds over James Beards

Here's the cloud. The event had an uncomfortable undercurrent. At the end of the evening it was disclosed that Melanie Young will not be its fearless leader next year. After 16 years of excellent and very devoted service to the James Beard Foundation it seems as if the new administration behind the organization put the project out to bid and she was undercut. This was disclosed in a heartfelt testimonial to her. Melanie, proving herself to be the total trouper we all know her to be gave an extremely dignified �farewell speech.�

The Beard awards were a big client for her. But more than the monetary loss, she is a passionate champion for them. She believes in them. And, she really saved their ass when the Beard Scandal went down last year. Not only that, but when I asked her if I could BYOW to the award dinner because I feared they would be pouring plonk (which they did in deed), she told me �no!� Even knowing she was on her way out, she wouldn�t have the Awards embarrassed, even if it was a snobby wine writer who wanted something to drink during dinner.

(FYI. Another surprise was in store for Melanie at the Big Awards, as the man she loves, David, proposed to her on stage. True to form, as she gained back some composure, she leaned into the mike and said, "Will someone please resuscitate my mother?"

On another note, which has nothing to do with clouds, David Leite won the James Beard award for his website and a hearty congratulations.

On another note: when wine writing shares the podium with spirit writing, wine rarely gets awards. Are spirits writers better than wine writers? Are spirit editors better editors than wine editors? Or is it a comment on the terrible state of wine writing in America? Or is the spirit category just sexier? Pete Wells (an excellent writer who is also a great guy, so much deserved) won for a cocktail piece. The book award went to Michael Jackson's Whiskey over Elin McCoys Parker book and Juhlin's Champagne book.

Clouds over James Beards

Here's the cloud. The event had an uncomfortable undercurrent. At the end of the evening it was disclosed that Melanie Young will not be its fearless leader next year. After 16 years of excellent and very devoted service to the James Beard Foundation it seems as if the new administration behind the organization put the project out to bid and she was undercut. This was disclosed in a heartfelt testimonial to her. Melanie, proving herself to be the total trouper we all know her to be gave an extremely dignified �farewell speech.�

The Beard awards were a big client for her. But more than the monetary loss, she is a passionate champion for them. She believes in them. And, she really saved their ass when the Beard Scandal went down last year. Not only that, but when I asked her if I could BYOW to the award dinner because I feared they would be pouring plonk (which they did in deed), she told me �no!� Even knowing she was on her way out, she wouldn�t have the Awards embarrassed, even if it was a snobby wine writer who wanted something to drink during dinner.

(FYI. Another surprise was in store for Melanie at the Big Awards, as the man she loves, David, proposed to her on stage. True to form, as she gained back some composure, she leaned into the mike and said, "Will someone please resuscitate my mother?"

On another note, which has nothing to do with clouds, David Leite won the James Beard award for his website and a hearty congratulations.

On another note: when wine writing shares the podium with spirit writing, wine rarely gets awards. Are spirits writers better than wine writers? Are spirit editors better editors than wine editors? Or is it a comment on the terrible state of wine writing in America? Or is the spirit category just sexier? Pete Wells (an excellent writer who is also a great guy, so much deserved) won for a cocktail piece. The book award went to Michael Jackson's Whiskey over Elin McCoys Parker book and Juhlin's Champagne book.

Bush and The Malling of Biodynamics

If the Bush mis-administration isn't enough to get me thinking about moving out of the States, the above picture in the Press Democrat-- Mike Benziger in a room full of dismembered horns, (which looks like some bizarre pagan graveyard instead of a celebration of biodynamic farming) is.

And so, the bastardization of biodynamics continues.

Now, I am an anarchist, not a religious one, mind you. I just am not fond of rules. All you have to do is look at my apartment and you'll get the idea.

I admit to annoyance with the gung-ho biodynamic zealot who has a proselytizing, sign-em-up mentality. I have the same reaction to any born again whatever. But I�d rather have that religiosity than the marketing spin I read into Mike Benziger�s profile. There he is with his horns and buried in the piece is the revelation that only a tiny part--not the whole-- of his production is biodynamic. Then he says �this is what the market is demanding.�

I mean, what happened to the concept of making wine because of a passion? I didn't start to write because of what the market demands. I write because what else can I do? It is my fiber. My agent once wanted me to write a chick-lit wine book. And I tried. Really. I couldn't do it. "Too dark," she said. I want to make money (send assignments, please) but it has never been the ruling force in my life.

On this very topic, Paul Dolan of Mendocino Wine Co.--a company that 'develops' sustainably grown brands, said. "There is value in biodynamics for the consumer because you have to be close to your vineyard. We have no problem selling any of our biodynamic wines," he said. "Even though they're really expensive. Tribute sells for $80, we have a sauvignon blanc that sells for $30, no problem. From the research I've seen, the consumer is willing to pay more provided the quality is there."

Some biodynamic wines are expensive. Many are not, falling into step between $12-$20. Is Dolan doing the ground work for high priced California boutique biodynamic wines? Will we be seeing more people farming this way (or pretending to, is more of the reality) because of profitability?

Hah, say this to the folks at Clos Roche Blanche or Olivier Cousin. Their top wines don't sell for more than $18. The winemaking at both of these Loire estates is gorgeous.

Biodynamics is a very work intensive way of farming and forges a spiritual connection to the soil in a way conventional or sustainable (whatever that buzzword is beginning to mean) farming doesn't. And I really did believe that this genre of winemaking was safe from commercialization, and I really thought that if someone was going to grow biodynamically they wouldn't be wanting to muck it up in the winery. But, this is America. Nothing is safe.

Press Democrat URL: http://northbay.pressdemocrat.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20060503/NEWS/60503048/1190/NORTHBAY02

Bush and The Malling of Biodynamics

If the Bush mis-administration isn't enough to get me thinking about moving out of the States, the above picture in the Press Democrat-- Mike Benziger in a room full of dismembered horns, (which looks like some bizarre pagan graveyard instead of a celebration of biodynamic farming) is.

And so, the bastardization of biodynamics continues.

Now, I am an anarchist, not a religious one, mind you. I just am not fond of rules. All you have to do is look at my apartment and you'll get the idea.

I admit to annoyance with the gung-ho biodynamic zealot who has a proselytizing, sign-em-up mentality. I have the same reaction to any born again whatever. But I�d rather have that religiosity than the marketing spin I read into Mike Benziger�s profile. There he is with his horns and buried in the piece is the revelation that only a tiny part--not the whole-- of his production is biodynamic. Then he says �this is what the market is demanding.�

I mean, what happened to the concept of making wine because of a passion? I didn't start to write because of what the market demands. I write because what else can I do? It is my fiber. My agent once wanted me to write a chick-lit wine book. And I tried. Really. I couldn't do it. "Too dark," she said. I want to make money (send assignments, please) but it has never been the ruling force in my life.

On this very topic, Paul Dolan of Mendocino Wine Co.--a company that 'develops' sustainably grown brands, said. "There is value in biodynamics for the consumer because you have to be close to your vineyard. We have no problem selling any of our biodynamic wines," he said. "Even though they're really expensive. Tribute sells for $80, we have a sauvignon blanc that sells for $30, no problem. From the research I've seen, the consumer is willing to pay more provided the quality is there."

Some biodynamic wines are expensive. Many are not, falling into step between $12-$20. Is Dolan doing the ground work for high priced California boutique biodynamic wines? Will we be seeing more people farming this way (or pretending to, is more of the reality) because of profitability?

Hah, say this to the folks at Clos Roche Blanche or Olivier Cousin. Their top wines don't sell for more than $18. The winemaking at both of these Loire estates is gorgeous.

Biodynamics is a very work intensive way of farming and forges a spiritual connection to the soil in a way conventional or sustainable (whatever that buzzword is beginning to mean) farming doesn't. And I really did believe that this genre of winemaking was safe from commercialization, and I really thought that if someone was going to grow biodynamically they wouldn't be wanting to muck it up in the winery. But, this is America. Nothing is safe.

Press Democrat URL: http://northbay.pressdemocrat.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20060503/NEWS/60503048/1190/NORTHBAY02

Demeter Strkes Out. One for the Big Boys

I was tongue-tied this morning. I felt like writing here, but felt issued-out. So I got on the case of some poor unsuspecting publicist who undoubtedly thought they wrote a kick-drop press release (see below). Later in the afternoon, I got a call from the Coturri Winery. They're keeping me in the loop about a depressing milestone in Biodynamics.

Be prepared for lower biodynamic wine standards than for organic wines. Organically made wines cannot have sulfites added.

According to the US Demeter, the organization stamping approval on biodynamic wines, there will be two categories;

* Biodynamically Farmed
* Biodynamic

Both allow the addition of sulfites, up to 100 parts per million of sulfite.

Personally, I don�t care that much about the sulfite addition (though, I would like sulfur from a naturally mined product and not some synthetic petroleum based product, think natural wood barbeque briquettes vs. those yucky petroleum-based commercial �charcoal). But, OK, 100 parts per million. OK. I guess I would rather a little sulfur than a little industrial yeast. The issue at hand, however, is way bigger than sulfites.

Demeter (which used to be held to a higher power) is giving credit to grapes grown prettily in the vineyard AND treated to every chemical trick in the trade once in the winery. With this new label, most of the public will be lulled into thinking wine with a biodynamically farmed label is �pure.�

The nefarious thing about the category of 'biodynamically farmed' is that the door is opened for wine �brands� wanting get in on the potential cach and $ of this category of wine.

God help us. Biodynamics, a growing philosophy that used to pay attention to a higher authority is getting the marketing makeover.

Can I blow the shofar and call upon the Jewish Mother�s of the world to unleash a guilt�giving lashing to these nefarious folk who want to strip dynamism from the bio?

I haven't been fond of the idea to list 'ingredients' on a wine bottle, but I am warming up to it. You see, to hell with biodynamics. Big deal. I do however, want to know if there's urea or petroleum or gelatin (get that mouthfeel right) defoaming agents, yeasts and enzymes in the wine....I want to know if the wine has been processed through micro ox or reverse osmosis. There is more to packaging a modern wine than sulfites, indeed. Now, Coturri doesn�t use a spot of sulfur (or yeast) and neither do their friends over at Frey. No matter what you think of their wines, they put their heart and soul into making wines as naturally as possible. After a long conversion with Tony Coturrii, I could hear him shaking his head in bewilderment on the phone as he said to me, �Why would you want to take care of the earth and then poison people when you give them your wine?�

Demeter Strkes Out. One for the Big Boys

I was tongue-tied this morning. I felt like writing here, but felt issued-out. So I got on the case of some poor unsuspecting publicist who undoubtedly thought they wrote a kick-drop press release (see below). Later in the afternoon, I got a call from the Coturri Winery. They're keeping me in the loop about a depressing milestone in Biodynamics.

Be prepared for lower biodynamic wine standards than for organic wines. Organically made wines cannot have sulfites added.

According to the US Demeter, the organization stamping approval on biodynamic wines, there will be two categories;

* Biodynamically Farmed
* Biodynamic

Both allow the addition of sulfites, up to 100 parts per million of sulfite.

Personally, I don�t care that much about the sulfite addition (though, I would like sulfur from a naturally mined product and not some synthetic petroleum based product, think natural wood barbeque briquettes vs. those yucky petroleum-based commercial �charcoal). But, OK, 100 parts per million. OK. I guess I would rather a little sulfur than a little industrial yeast. The issue at hand, however, is way bigger than sulfites.

Demeter (which used to be held to a higher power) is giving credit to grapes grown prettily in the vineyard AND treated to every chemical trick in the trade once in the winery. With this new label, most of the public will be lulled into thinking wine with a biodynamically farmed label is �pure.�

The nefarious thing about the category of 'biodynamically farmed' is that the door is opened for wine �brands� wanting get in on the potential cach and $ of this category of wine.

God help us. Biodynamics, a growing philosophy that used to pay attention to a higher authority is getting the marketing makeover.

Can I blow the shofar and call upon the Jewish Mother�s of the world to unleash a guilt�giving lashing to these nefarious folk who want to strip dynamism from the bio?

I haven't been fond of the idea to list 'ingredients' on a wine bottle, but I am warming up to it. You see, to hell with biodynamics. Big deal. I do however, want to know if there's urea or petroleum or gelatin (get that mouthfeel right) defoaming agents, yeasts and enzymes in the wine....I want to know if the wine has been processed through micro ox or reverse osmosis. There is more to packaging a modern wine than sulfites, indeed. Now, Coturri doesn�t use a spot of sulfur (or yeast) and neither do their friends over at Frey. No matter what you think of their wines, they put their heart and soul into making wines as naturally as possible. After a long conversion with Tony Coturrii, I could hear him shaking his head in bewilderment on the phone as he said to me, �Why would you want to take care of the earth and then poison people when you give them your wine?�

Press Release: Red Bicyclette

Gallo's Red Bicyclette Ros press release was fascinating.

First of all, I was surprised to hear that RB makes the 'best selling imported Ros wine." (note the Ros wine.)

They 'officially� declared May 8th to be the start of Ros (wine) season with good times and good friends."

(They declared it. So it must be so.)

"Designer and entertaining expert Cynthia Rowley, and foremost Ros expert Jeff Morgan each bring expert advice for celebrating Ros Season with good times and good friends. "

(Didn't know we all needed expert advice on drinking RB, except for dumping it down the drain. Oh, yeah. They forgot to tell the journalists reading this press release that Jeff makes his own Californian Ros (wine).)

And, best of all..."To welcome this season, Ms. Rowley encourages women everwhere to mark the date by spending quality time with hclose friends-even if ony for an aftertnoon.....throw a Ros soire. Bond over a BBQ Spa Get-together. "

Press Release: Red Bicyclette

Gallo's Red Bicyclette Ros press release was fascinating.

First of all, I was surprised to hear that RB makes the 'best selling imported Ros wine." (note the Ros wine.)

They 'officially� declared May 8th to be the start of Ros (wine) season with good times and good friends."

(They declared it. So it must be so.)

"Designer and entertaining expert Cynthia Rowley, and foremost Ros expert Jeff Morgan each bring expert advice for celebrating Ros Season with good times and good friends. "

(Didn't know we all needed expert advice on drinking RB, except for dumping it down the drain. Oh, yeah. They forgot to tell the journalists reading this press release that Jeff makes his own Californian Ros (wine).)

And, best of all..."To welcome this season, Ms. Rowley encourages women everwhere to mark the date by spending quality time with hclose friends-even if ony for an aftertnoon.....throw a Ros soire. Bond over a BBQ Spa Get-together. "