You have to search more doggedly for my byline on this piece (NYMAG, January 16th issue) than you will have to for these wines, but that's ok. It was almost equally difficult to convince my editor that I needed to choose all French wines as the recos. He wanted to know why we couldn't have some nice, juicy New World wines in there. I reminded him that he asked for wines, not beverages, and he wanted wines that tasted way better than their price--under ten dollars. For the present, it's France or bust.