"..a primordial, tannic beast with a beef blood-like concentration, a huge, opaque purple color, and notes of scorched earth, blackberries, chocolate, camphor, roasted meats, and cassis. It’s as if I took an aged porterhouse steak from Peter Lugar’s famed restaurant, put it in a Cuisinart, and aged it in new French oak."
(By the way, that is the writer's typo, not mine. It should be Luger, not Lugar.)
Thusly described, that wine seems like one I'd try to outrun like a dirty bomb. But that is the RMP Jr's rave review of the 2002 Vecina Proprietary Red ($175)-- 95 points. Guess he liked it. Cuisinarted meat aged in barrique? Baby food covered in wood tannin and vanilla? A few years ago the British wine magazine Harper's did a pretty fun story on purple prose in wine writing, this one is more like the winner of Gothic prose in wine writing.
But, when I think of it, notes of scorched earth. Hmm. Actually when taken out of the wine context it's quite poetic. And with just a little tweaking it could perhaps be a Louise Gluck.
Hungering, I took an aged porterhouse steak, richly marbled with fat out of Lugar's freezer.
Cuisinarted and pulsed
aged it in new French oak
Oh, beef blooded concentration,
huge, opaque purple,
notes of scorched earth,
blackberries, chocolate, camphor,
roasted meats, and cassis.
Classic Michel Rolland, winemaker
turned butcher, primordial, tannic beast.