Was there ever a greater contrast against New World wine? This is a gamay from the Touraine area of the Loire. Decadent and heartbreakingly fragrant, playful and pure, it’s and full of lovely ripe raspberries with a vein of minerality that grounds firmly as having come from the vineyards of Clos Roche Blanche’s owner, Catherine Roussel from the winemaking genius of Didier Barrouillet. The wine, imported by Louis/Dressner, can be found for $13.

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