A good friend of mine, a doctor/photographer (who admitedly, is a bit mad) absolutely loves peppery wine. In fact, he takes it literarlly. This summer, in a tableside video he gamely showed off his technique of doctoring a wine to get it to his liking.
This is not a joke.
He does this all the time.
Is it a manipulation? Sure it is. Do I care? No. I choose the wines I give him carefully. A Côtes du Rhône or a wine from the Languedoc? For those he stays away from the mill. He's often a great receptacle for the wines I might normally recycle to neighbors. And then I don't flinch when he takes matters into his own hands. (Will all due respect to the wine in this video, he was just using it for demo.)